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blown fuse
Removed the three screws holding the cover on. then rmoved the two wires from the capacitor. Removed the screw holding the end of the zener diode to the chassis. Removed the diode from the capacitor. installed the new capacitor and replaced the blown fuse then reversed the removal process.
On the bottom of Microwave I cut the 6 clips holding the cover in place with side cutters. Removed the one screw holding motor in place. Un plugged it. Plugged in new motor, replaced screw. Filed off sharp points of clips. Slid cover tabs into slots, put screw in cover. Replaced parts inside oven, turned it on, it worked. I did this twice. The first time the plug fell inside the housing and I had to turn the microwave over to fish it out. So when I received new part I left it plugged in. I should make it clear I am talking about the plug to the motor not the one to the microwave. Of course I unplugged that before I even moved the microwave. Thanks to another customer and his repair story because I was dreading the chore of dismantling the entire microwave to get to the turn table motor. He made it so easy. Thank you for having the part and great instructions.
This was an under counter microwave located above the range. There is a cover on the bottom of the unit that contains screens for the fan. This cover is removed by taking out 3 screws located near the front of the unit. Be sure to support the cover when removing the last screw. There is a plug-in wire going to the turn table motor. Unplug it so you can lay the cover on the range top. The motor is removed by taking out two screws and pulling down. It should not take much force as it slides into a plastic drive located under the turn table inside the microwave. There should be specifications on the old motor that match the new motor. Push the new motor up into the plastic drive unit, matching the "D" shaft of the motor into the plastic drive. Replace two motor screw in correct holes so that the plastic drive is centered in the hole. Plug the motor back in and replace the cover.
1. Remove trim kit - Philips head screw driver 2. Remove Microwave from the wall - Philips head screw driver 3. Remove outer microwave cover - required tamper proof torx bit drivers 4. Replace Magnetron thermostat. On this model there are 2. in this case it was on top of the unit tied into the wiring harness to the main panel. 5. Reinstall microwave and trim kit
Open the microwave tray, set the class cooking tray on the rotating device an done. Real peace of cake. Thank you for the promp delivery. Your future costumer, raul.
I ordered a new one in about 3 days it was here. all I did is put it in. Thanks so much. I have all whirlpool appliances and am happy I have a place to order when I need a part.
Light bulb repair was super easy once I got the out shell of the microwave off. The unanticipated problem was that I didn't realize the outer shell was secured with unusual "Security Torx" screws I have a couple star screw drivers but these were very unusual and could not find a proper screwdriver to remove them. I was able to force them lose with a small philips screwdriver and a pair of channel lock pliers. It took me quite a while to get the screws off this way but once I got them out and the outer shell off the microwave the light bulb replacement took less than 10 minutes. You should market the appropriate screwdriver to remove the outer microwave shell with any interior replacement parts.
Our microwave oven stopped working one day when the door was closed. The clock stopped showing, the light didn't come on when the door was opened, and the microwave couldn't be started. It acted as if it lost power. So, we did the usual things such as check the plug and the circuit; these were fine. I then removed the cover (need special bits called "Security Bits" which you can buy from Home Depot for $8.00). After removing the cover, be sure to discharge the capacitor (do a Google search to learn how to do this; fortunately, this microwave has a resistive circuit to ground to discharge the capacitor after about 30 minutes of being unplugged). After I discharged the capacitor, I checked the fuse and it was blown. So, I went to the store to buy a new fuse. When I replaced the fuse, and plugged the unit back into an outlet, the circuit blew as soon as I opened the door. This made me realize the faulty components were the "interlock" switches. These are relays (an electric switch) that cause the microwave to shut off when the door is opened and the inside lamp to illuminate when the door is opened. There are two "primary" switches and a "monitor" switch. I checked both primary switches for continuity (do a google switch for "checking interlock switch"). The one interlock switch was bad, meaning, it wasn't opening when it was suppose to. I ordered a replacement and also replaced the Monitor switch too (not sure why, I guess because it was only $6 to buy). After replacing the bad primary interlock switch, I put it all back together and we're working now!
I determined that one of the 4 micro switches that interface with the door was faulty. Ordered that part and replaced it. Had to remove the cover and front control panel (without removing any connections. Two philips screws hold the limit switch assembly to the bracket. After removing those screws, twist the whole switch assembly clockwise around the mounting frame and now you can remove the defective micro switch and replace it with a new one. This works for any of the 4 switches.
Was sent the wrong part but wanted a pizza so I installed it anyway and now the turntable turns a 6 rpm instead of 3 rpm. I figured that the part I ordered was no longer available and that was the best you could do for a replacement part. Replacement was easy- removed panel from bottom of microwave and filed the sharp edges from the side cutters, remove the one motor screw and motor. swapped the plug over and installed the new part. Replaced bottom panel, plugged in and cooked a pizza.
