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Oven erratic, not heating correctly, timer beeper sounding
The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.
After watching the instructional video (and flipping the breaker to my range) it was straight forward and simple. The heating element was a little bent so didn’t originally sit square/flat to the bottom of the oven so I uninstalled, bent it gently a little and reinstalled and it set down flat. It still didn’t take 15 minutes.
Turned the power off to the oven, unscrewed the ends of the element, connected new element, screwed it back in to place and turned the powe back on. The video provided in my shipping confirmation was very helpful.
Turned oven circuit breaker off. Removed oven racks. Removed 2 screws from old element. Pulled element out slightly disconnected wires on each end and reattached to new element. Pushed back in and reinstalled the 2 screws, reinstalled oven racks and turned circuit breaker back on. All done in about 20 minutes.
Bought bottom element as suggested. Instruction video seemed straight forward. Not exactly.When I unscrewed the element and gently pulled it out to access the connector, one came out an inch or two, however the left side would not slide out. Tugged a little and it released the connector which jumped back inside the oven. Had to slide the oven out from counter, remove a rear covering plate (2 screws and no problem) and found the new element connectors protruded through the rear of the stove for connection. They were covered by the large rear plate I had removed. Screwed the plate back on and, slid the stove back into position, restored power and all was good. Stove heats properly. Happy.
Hired a pro. Parts are difficult to get on a timely basis today , if at all. Screw up this repair by damaging the outer " black glass " and you buy a new stove. It took three weeks to get my replacement glass even though PS said the part was being sent within a day of the order. Even so , I am am happy to have gotten it , and will continue to use the company.
• Removed the oven door (pulled right off old hinges) • Removed two screws • Removed broken hinge • Placed new hinge in place • Replaced screws • Replaced oven door.
Bought new hinges as that was the obvious problem. Below is the removal, installation process for new hinges. Turns out in my case there was nothing wrong with the hinges. Problem was still there after installing new ones. I found that the metal in the door that butted against the hinges was fatigued causing looseness. I ended up compressing the metal back into shape with a hammer. Problem solved but money wasted on hinges. If you replace hinges. Here is what I did. 1. Open door slightly to where it stops in broiler position. 2. Remove the door by pulling up. 3. Remove two screws in front of hinges that hold them in. 4. Pull range out a few inches for access the remove the side fillers that trim out the stove. 5. Reach in from the side and work hinges out. 5. Pop in new hinges and reattach the 2 front holding screws and the side trim screws. You are done.
Oven sensor caused cooling fan to run continuously. Had to flip breaker to get it to turn off..
Left oven off. Located sensor in pdf manual. Unscrewed mount, pulled sensor out to access connector. Disconnected old sensor, checked continuity(resistance) on ohms with multimeter. No continuity; connected new sensor, screwed mount back into place, turned on oven and baked cookies to check operation & it worked perfectly.
First I turned the power off to the oven using the breaker switch. Removed the old bake element by first unscrewing the 2 screws for each bracket holding each side of the old bake element and unplugging the two current connections.
Replugged and rescrewed above. Turned breaker on for oven. Tested by turning oven to back and watching new bake element heat up.
Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.
