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Lower wash arm cap was worn thin allowing the spray arm to hit the dish rack.
The actual problem was the plastic wash arm cap was worn down and not holding the spray arm in place allowing it to hit the lower dish rack and stopping it from turning. The cap is on a threaded steel stem and is easily removed. The spray arm lifts off the stem and its replacement slips right on. Then install the new wash arm cap by screwing it on the stem.
In order to clean the screen I had to remove the impeller. Removal required using a wheel puller. I backed off on the impeller screw but left it attached so that the wheel puller could pry against it. I then tightened the puller enough to free the impeller. I was then able to unscrew and remove the screen for cleaning.
Turned off water at the shutoff valve. I did not turn off the power, but it is recommended you do so. I pulled the dishwasher out from under the cabinet and used a car jack to lift the front off of the ground. Disconnected the water supply and the rubber hose that fills the dishwasher tub. There are two 7mm screws that hold the water pump to the frame. If you do not have a 7mm socket, the easiest thing to use is an interchangeable screwdriver. When the screw bit is pulled out, the empty screwdriver is a 7mm. Used adjustable wrench to remove the brass water port for the supply line. Teflon tape to all connections and hooked everything back up. My supply line was old and was leaking, so I had to run out and get a new one, so that added about 30 minutes to what would have been maybe a 20 minute repair.
I had to lightly pry off the long piece of plastic next to the wheel assembly because I had to twist the assembly counter clockwise to remove the old one. Also had to place the new one so that it rotated clockwise to seat it. Then replaced the other plastic piece.
Grit on all the dishes, spots on glasses and hard water buildup inside the entire dishwasher
1. Remove both upper and lower dish trays 2. Remove the “Spinner /Sprayer” (small nut on the top) 3. Unclip the “Tower” from the top and rear clip 4. Remove the “Tower” from the unit 5. Remove the “Filter Guard” on the bottom by removing 3 torx screws 6. Remove the “Discharge Housing” & “Impeller” (1 – 15 torx screw) 7. Remove and replace the “Accumulator Filter” (8 – 20 torx screws) 8. Assemble in reverse order
Soap not disolving and leaving residue on everything. Not Cleaning.
I followed the instructions here on PartSelect to dismantle and put the new impeller in to place. Could tell the difference just in sound alone once it was running.
Pulled dishwasher out far enough to get at the original hose. Disconnected and drained the hose. Connected new hose, zip tied the hose in place, pushed dishwasher back in place and re-anchored. Zippidy do...piece of cake. Perfect fit.
PULLED OUT DISHWASHER . REMOVED THE IN SIDE RESTRAINING BRACKET. ON OUT SIDE IS WATER FILL BOX THAT GASKET MOUNTS IN, REMOVED, REPLACED WITH NEW GASKET REINSTALLED RESTAINING BRACKET ON IN SIDE AND PUT DISHWASHER BACK IN. JOB COMPLETE EASY.
first, i removed the inner door panel exposing the latch assembly. i then disconnected the wiring to switches noting their locations. removed and replaced with new latch assembly, connected all wiring back to their corresponding switches, assembled the inner door panel and checked to make sure the latch was working properly.
Latch handle broke, making it hard to open the door.
Removed ~12 screws holding the inside liner onto the door. Pulled off the two connectors (one with black and one with white wires). Replace the handle and latch mechanism. Redid connections and replaced screws. Viola. (Be sure to buy BOTH the handle and latch mechanism- I don't see how you could easily install the handle on the mechanism myself, and what broken in my case was the black handle).
First, shut off the circuit that the dishwasher is on. Remove the 10 - 12 screws that secures the inside waterproof panel to the door. There are two electrical connections are either side of the handle (latch assembly) that need to be removed. No need to disconnect any other connections or reservoirs. The handle comes right out. Seat the new one in door front opening. Reconnect the electrical leads and reseat the interior panel. I would put in the 2 screws are either side of the handle first; then the 2 at the bottom on either side and then the remaining. This is a very easy DIY job.
silverware basket was cracked/broken and spoons etc. fell through
seeing as how my husband was out of town, I inserted a regular flatware knife in each of the four slots that held the handle in place on the basket. I then slowly pushed down on the handles of the knives on opposite sides of each other to unlock the handle from two slots on the basket and then went on to push down on the other two flatware knives on the opposite sides...sure enough, the handle came right off...less than 5 minutes in all to take the old handle off from the old basket and then snap it into place onto my newly acquired basket.
Removed all the screws holding the inside panel of the door to the door itself. Lifted out the old broken door latch. Pulled the wire clips from the 2 switches located on either side if the door Latch assembly. This is a bit difficult. You have to keep working the wire clips back & forth; Up & down until the clips are free from the switch metal contacts. Reinstall the wire clips on the new door Latch assembly making sure you attach the black wires and white wires on the same side of the new latch assembly as on the one removed. Replace the new latch assembly aligning the mounting holes on the door with the new latch holes. Replace the inside panel aligning the holes and replace the screws. The screws were the star head type so you need a special driver bit. I used the box the latch came in the prop up the inside door panel while I worked.
