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Center of large burner stopped working.
First and foremost, I am a 63 year old cooky baking GRANDMOTHER. I don't know anything about fixing appliances. I read the other repair stories pertaining to my burner and I thought, "why not." It was a snap!
My part arrived the very next day, bless you Parts Select! I just did what the others (see above) did: I removed 2 screws to release the stove top, then I took a few digital photos to be sure I would know where the wires went. I released the old burner, pulled out the thingamajigs that held the wires in the old burner, then pushed the new ones in their place, replaced the stove top, plugged it back in, turned it on and jumped for joy! If I can do this, anyone can.
After reviewing the potential causes for the error code, I decided I'd try to change out the temp sensor. Using the ohmeter, I saw the difference immediately between the old and new sensor. The sensor is accessed from the back of the stove, and must be slide out to gain access to the rear panel. Since the stove I have is a built in, removing the stove and the access panel was the hardest part of this repair. Resetting the glass control panel was also a bit tricky to calibrate the touch sensitive buttons. Good luck.
Shut off circuit breaker. Removed cooktop from island counter. Removed all knobs. Removed all screws after finding layout diagrams of unit on your web site. Lifted glass top from metal cabinet. Ordered control after trouble shooting the problem. (Master Electrician). Obviously burned out from water in control. Ordered control on line and installed it when it arrived three days later. Before installing control I cleaned and dried out the area. I cleaned the glass top around all the control shaft holes and the rubber boots and lubricated them with silicone to help keep them dry and for ease of turning controls. Turned on circuit breaker and checked all burners, pilot light and hot top indicating lights.
Rumbling noise when using convection bake or roast
Turn off power. Remove 4 screws holding the fan cover inside oven using a 1/4 in. nut driver. . Hold the fan from turning and remove the nut by turning clock-wise(left-hand thread!) using a 1/2 in. nut driver. Then from the back of the range, remove the sheet metal cover to expose the motor(1/4 in. nut driver). Remove the 3 screws holding the motor(1/4 in. nut driver) and pull it out. The new motor comes with a seal, so don't forget to stick it on. Put everything back in reverse order and your done. Nice and quiet after that.
The draw pictorial was not very clear. I orderd the two rear supports for the over storage draw, not sure they were correct. They were correct and the design had been upgraded to add strength to the support. The draw is now operational..better then ever.
Dual burners stay on hi all the time. No regulation.
The hardest part was getting the correct part. I trusted the on line number and the first part I received was incorrect. I should have taken the part number off the old switch. When I did, I found out that the part number changed when I tried to order it. When the part came, the wiring instructions were not even close. I just took one wire at a time off the old switch and put it on the same terminal of the new switch. The repair was/is very simple made complex and too much time because of a wrong part and incorrect wiring instructions. As far as getting the incorrect and correct parts through the mail it was very fast. Received both parts in less than 3 days. A bonus is that I sent the old switch back for a rebate. Thanks for that.
lift door off and remove racks take out old sensor. one word of advise when pulling old sensor out tie a string around connector coming out of oven if it slips out of yor hand it could fall through hole iif you dont have a string attached you pull the whole oven out of wall to acess it
Tried GE onoine parts department first and ordered the wrong part, then tried the customer hotline and they referred me to the right part but didn't explain that the design had been modified (the drawings had not been updated). I found an explanation on Part Select AND the parts were cheaper. Part Select sent the part, the necessary screw, and an appropriate instruction manual. Each support took less than a minute to screw in with a socket wrench.
The burner light was on - burner control spun freely
Looked up the part, ordered it, and it was there in 3 days. It was slightly different than the old control, but a very well-written set of instuctions detailed which wires to move to which terminal. The entire repair took about 30 minutes, including moving the range out, replacing the control, and push the range back in place. Works perfectly.
When we bought the house the gasket was hard from food deposits
Just pulled out the old one and pushed in the new one. Very easy. I was afraid to run this self-cleaning oven until I installed the new gasket. It worked perfectly.
Removed range from cabinets then approximately 6 sheet metal screws from the front of the range and two 1/4" sheet metal screws from the side to remove the front and top of the range. Lifted the cook top removed the two screws from the rotary switch and followed the directions included with switch to connect the wires. In reverse order reassembeled the range. Quick & Easy
I unfastened the three 1/4" rear screws, then the two support screws on top. I pulled the old element out,( plenty of slack wire luckily). disconnected it from the bayonet-type connections, then attached the new element. I secured the new element using the 1/4" screws. Bingo!
1- opened oven door 2- unscrewed 2 screws underneath top with a socket wrench 3- unscrewed clips that held burner 4-used needle nose pliers to pull off wire clips off old burner 5- placed wires onto new burner 6- opened clips to make it easier to reinsert burner 7-reattached burner 8-Replaced top
The hardest part was unscrewing the 2 screws that held the top in place due to the position of the screws
Right front burner had no heat control. (High heat when on "Low")
Pull range out of the "hole", and spin so that back of range is accessible. Remove cover over top "control area" on back of range. (Four screws that happen to be the same size as the magnetic socket that holds the interchangeable tip on a cordless screw gun. Simply remove this tip, and use the tip holder as a magnetic nut driver!). Remove the knob by pulling gently straight off. Remove black plastic retaining nut under where knob was. Inside are two small screws that hold the switch in place. Remove these screws with a magnetic screwdriver (If you drop these screws and lose them, you'll have a hard time finding them. Very small!!). Carefully follow enclosed instructions to move the wires from the old switch to the new switch. Put back together in reverse order.
