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The old surface unit was not generating heat
We just remove the old surface unit and insert the new one by hand. Thanks to PartSelect, we were able to buy really good quality part that works right away! It was a 26-year-OLD GE Stove/Microwave space maker, the parts were hard to find in stores. Thank you for selling this! All the best for your business!
The control knob stem broke off when I moved the stove.
I located and removed 2 sets of hex-head screws under the front lip of the cooktop, then lifted the entire cooktop to access the burner controls. Removed the wires and taped them, and took out the old control after removing 2 phillips head screws. Installed replacement part easily. Only tricky part is that the various shaft adapters don't quite work with my knob. I'll fix it completely with a bit of epoxy and the adapters they sent.
it was hard to figure out the instructions from A switch to B switch to my switch. The first switch was no good the second one was good. prayer book didn't hurt.thank
I have had to replace this unit once before. It was very obvious which terminal had burned off. Removed the total front panel. Removed the timer and replaced wires from one unit to the other. Also had to strip off one wire connection and replaced it .
I flipped breaker off for electic and confirmed that power to the stove was off. I removed the 2 screws holding the control unit in place. Carefully removed all knobs and buttons and pryed the cover for the control unit off. I then removed old part, removed the wired and clipped wires to the new unit. Put cover back on - has some difficulty getting the panel back in place to line up the screws. But after a couple of attempts, was able to line up unit and put screws in place to secure. Replaced all knobs. Turn breaker back on and cooked lunch. Very easy job. Most difficult part was getting panel back in position. I would watch alignment more carefully before I removed in next time. Easy home repair for Women...not sure about my man?
The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.
Remove light bail, glass cover held by two nut screws. Pull socket, removed clips in back, replaced wire connectors, placed new socket in, then glass cover and bail. Wire connected in back, cover plate replaced.
Mechanical clock stopped advancing; replace with newer digital clock
1) Took photo of original wiring behind original clock. 2) Marked up wiring instructions for new clock with wire colors. 3) Marked wire colors next to posts on new clock. 4) Removed old clock and its metal mounting bracket. 5) Installed new clock onto old mounting bracket.PROBLEM: The holes in the glass facade of oven are shifted about 1/4" off from the pushbuttons on the new clock. 6) Remove bracket and enlarged holes by 1/4" sideways. This includes shifting the holes for the oven light pushbutton switches, and the four "racetrack" holes where the bracket attaches to the oven. Plug wires into new clock, using extender wires provided as needed. Labelled extender wires with their "colors". POWER UP. The clock works, and the "Timed Bake" works. However, the Self-Cleaning of the oven cannot be started, because the latch level cannot be moved to the right (locked ) position. This leaves us unsatisfied, as restoration of Self-Cleaning was the reason we decided to replace the oven clock.
