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Broken Tab
You will need a Nutdriver a 1/4" size and a philips screwdriver, I'm a young woman, It was easy find the pc. I need here since I lost my manual, in this particular piece the inside part is not included the tab that controls the tempeture, you will have to use the same from the broken one, snap off all and carefully remove it from the insideout of the broken piece to intall it in the replacement, make sure you remember how its going back, that was the hard part of all the repair! after that it was easy as 1, 2, 3!!! have fun!!
The Icee ejector arm stopped turning due to icecube jam.
Not being a professional repair tech, I looked at this sites provided schematics of the ice-maker. I assumed due to the problem I had which parts to order. the parts arrived within 3 days and after I took the icemaker apart I quickly realized I ordered the wrong parts. I called and asked what to do. since I did not open the packaging for the "wrong" parts I was able to make a return. I then called back because I discoverd the part I really needed wasn't shown in the sketch. I was told that I needed to order a new motor and it would have the part I needed. I ordered the part and within 3 days it arrived. Once I had the new part I was able to quickly install. Now I have a icemaker that works better than new since ,now it does not seem to jam either.
To make the repair: First remove the 1/4" nut head screw on the under side of the ice maker. Remove the shroud covering the electrical connection. Slide out the maker and depress the locking clip. Disconect the electrical wires. Pull off the motor cover (no screws). Remove the three philips head screws from the motor housing. Gently remove the motor. Next loosen the screws and pull the "black motor-mounting harness" untill enough clearance to remove the ejector arm and deflector tray. The new kit will have a new ejector arm and deflector tray. Insallation is the reverse. The schematics were very helpfull. It was very simple and I saved a $150 service fee to have someone else do it for me. PS. When I called I was able to speak to real live Americans who were able to help me, were pleasant, polite, and professional, AND they did not treat me like I was stupid because I am not a professional repair man. I will definately use this service again. and recommend to all my DIY friends!!
Overall, replacing the ice maker wasn't too bad but it wasn't nearly as easy for me as it seems to have been for some. In my case, the fridge was an Amana and the ice maker was mounted in such a way that disconnecting the power connector was difficult. The ice maker had to be completely dismounted before any access to the power connector was even possible. The short power cables made it very difficult to get the ice maker into a position where I had a good view of the power connector enabling me to see how to release it. The only other challenge was the cup that the water line goes into. The replacement ice maker did not come with the right cup - the instructions said to replace the provided one with the old one. No instructions for this procedure were provided and it looked to me like it might involve significant disassembly, something I wanted to avoid for fear of breaking a plastic part on the new ice maker (something I had already done when disassembling the old ice maker). So instead of replacing the cup, I modified the new one to match the old one. This involved removing a cutout on one side and covering a hole on the other. Installation of the new ice maker went fine and the water leak problem was fixed.
R & R Icemaker Assembly. Took out 3 screws and unpluged Icemaker & replaced with new part. very easy and the service from PartSelect was fantastic. Very Satisfied, Ron Martin
First I removed the six screws from the cover. I then disconnected the two wires and pulled the small motor out with its base and removed two screws that hold it in place. I then changed the old one for the new one and set it back in its place. I then set the cover back and turned it on. I was happy again.
Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed
No cooling, compressor not running and was very hot
Plied off the relay switch with a screw driver. I could not pull it off by hand. Disconnected the wires to it and replaced with new part. Had problem getting the part back on and lining up the pins with the connector. I had to line up one pin and start at an angle and roll the part onto the contact pins. I was impressed with the one day delivery without paying because it was shipped from a warehouse in California where the repair was made.
After lots of internet exploring and diagnosis, the icemaker comes right out, and with three screws out and in, the job is all but done. Don't pay anyone for this repair!!!!!
The ice mold has a coating on it. Over time the coating deteriorates. If your ice maker leaks water into the ice reservoir inspect the mold to see if the coating is compromised. If so, replace with new.
Remove the ice maker assembly. 3 small hex screws. Unplug power cord. Disassemble ice maker assembly. Remove ice mold/heater. Replace with new. Reassemble.
Removed back access cover with quarter inch nut driver, unplugged wire harness, pulled old relay out & plugged in new one, reconnected wire harness, and reinstalled access cover. Piece of cake. (Shipping was very quick) ***Frig was only 3yr an 1 mounth old.*** Maytag - Dependable Huh?
Looking at the ice maker it is pretty cut & dried as to how to remove the unit. I took out the ice tray and just started removing all the mounting screws. The same for the mold ice tray & heating element. I was just sad that you did not have just the heating element separate from the mold ice tray.
Once I got the right part the repair was quick and easy. All I had to do is get the old part off with a screwdriver and curved needle nose pliers and the old part came right off. The new part went in just as easy. Quick and easy. Less than 15 minutes.
Received the union I ordered, then discovered that the tubes were different sizes, so I had the wrong part. I had read elsewhere that it was necessary to trim the two ends of the tubes with a box cutter to stop the leaks - I did this, and the leaking stopped. I was then able to go to a local hardware store and get a 5/16 to 1/4 union and replace it. The leaking is stopped, and the water supply in the door is now working like new. No problem with partselect, but I did buy a caliper so that I can check tube diameters if I ever have a similar problem! This is a great site to find instructions - well worth the time to search!
I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!