JB910BK1BB General Electric Range - Instructions

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

My oven bake element melted one day. I had my husband replace it and for a short while it worked. Then it quit but then our broil element would not shut off. My husband said that it might be the heat sensor. We checked here in town and that element cost over $80. Since we have order from Parts Select before we decide to do so again. When we received the heat sensor my husband replaced it taking out the original heat sensor. This did not work as the broil element still would not turn off. I call the repair man and I found out that the initial melt down of the bake element also effected the main circut board that had to e replaced.

First turned off power at breaker box. Pulled stove out to remove the half dozen hex screws on the back panel.(some nuts were stripped)Removed old oven sensor inside oven held by one hex screw and replaced it with the new part. Oven works great now! Repair job was done by husband Mike.

Looked up the part, ordered it, and it was there in 3 days. It was slightly different than the old control, but a very well-written set of instuctions detailed which wires to move to which terminal. The entire repair took about 30 minutes, including moving the range out, replacing the control, and push the range back in place. Works perfectly.

Disconnect power, then remove racks from oven, locate heat sensor by the broiler element. Use ratchet with extension and correct socket to remove the bolt directly under the heat sensor, pull the sensor out till you see the plug, disconnect the plug and then connect new sensor to it push wire back thru and then rebolt the new sensor on, thats it...

Removed range from cabinets then approximately 6 sheet metal screws from the front of the range and two 1/4" sheet metal screws from the side to remove the front and top of the range. Lifted the cook top removed the two screws from the rotary switch and followed the directions included with switch to connect the wires. In reverse order reassembeled the range.
Quick & Easy

A replacement Meat Probe did not correct the problem. Next replaced the Meat Probe Jack which corrected the problem. 1) To replace the Probe jack use 1/2" wrench to remove the nut and washer holding probe to a bracket on the top part of oven, just inside the oven door.
2) Unscrew two screws under the lip of the top burners, raise up the whole top, using a short stick to hold-up the top while you access the Probe Jack.
3) With your fingers gently follow 2-braded jack wires laying ontop of the insulation batting. The 2 wires run under the batting to the loose Jack. Carfully remove the old probe jack and install the new jack and secure with 1/2" wrench.
4. Pull stove out so you can get behind, unplug the stove and remove metal paneling covering back of control Panel. Locate the two braded wires running from front of oven over batting to a whole in rear oven wall, just below control panel. Replace new wires from the new meat probe jack, following the same route to back of stove. Carefully pull wires back and trace location to back of control panel. Unplug the old jack and replace the new wires, being careful not kink or fray the new wires. Replace back panel and plug in stove, lower and secure the 2 screws holding the burner top down. Check Probe on front of stove to make sure your getting a probe reading. Your done in a few minutes.

Pull range out of the "hole", and spin so that back of range is accessible. Remove cover over top "control area" on back of range. (Four screws that happen to be the same size as the magnetic socket that holds the interchangeable tip on a cordless screw gun. Simply remove this tip, and use the tip holder as a magnetic nut driver!). Remove the knob by pulling gently straight off. Remove black plastic retaining nut under where knob was. Inside are two small screws that hold the switch in place. Remove these screws with a magnetic screwdriver (If you drop these screws and lose them, you'll have a hard time finding them. Very small!!). Carefully follow enclosed instructions to move the wires from the old switch to the new switch. Put back together in reverse order.

Pulled the oven out and unplugged it. Removed five screws and the back cover. Disconnected the electrical connection. Removed one screw and pulled the sensor out. Installed the sensor and screw. Made the electrical connection on the back, replaced the cover and five screws. Plugged the electrical cord back in and tested the oven temperature compared to the setting. Worked great. My wife then made a small batch of muffins to test it out and they were good.

Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.

Open the oven , remove one screw holding the sensor remove the sensor and replace the sensor.

Removed the oven door and shelves. Moved the oven out from wall, so that I could access the rear panel. Unplugged the oven. Removed the five (5) screws holding the rear panel in place and removed the panel. Disconnected the sensor at the connector. Removed the screw holding the sensor in place inside the oven and removed the sensor. Theaded the sensor wire through the rear of the oven wall. Installed the sensor and screw to hold it in place. Snapped the connector from the sensor to the mating connector at the rear of the oven. Installed the rear panel. Installed the five (5) screws to hold the panel. Plugged the oven back in and slide the oven back to the wall. Installed the oven shelves and the oven door.

Pulled out the range from the wall and unplugged it. (A good time to clean up the cabinet sides & floor.) Found the 2 screws under the cooktop by opening the oven door. Removed the screws and raised the cooktop -- it's hinged in the back. Propped up the cooktop with a spare piece of lumber. (I would have expected to find a fold-out rod to prop it up -- a suggestion to GE.) Noted the positions of the 4 spade lug connectors and removed them gently with a pair of needlenose pliers. Removed the 2 screws from the clips holding the element in place & removed the element. Installation was the exact reverse: clips, spade lugs, front screws. (Then I removed the blue masking tape I had put over the burner knob so we wouldn't try to use the burner while I was waiting for the part to arrive.) Plugged it in & pushed it back in place. Good to go! 30 minutes including the surprise cleanup.

Unplugged the Range and removed the two screws holding down the cook top. You do not need to remove the vent chamber at the rear of the range since the top lifts up about 4 inches. This should be enough room to get your hand onto the plug going to the door switch. Pull off the plug and remove the swich. Pop in the new one, put on the plug, reinstall the two screws and you are done!

Read the thread on "burnt smell" and DO NOT assume it is a burned out element. Follow your nose!!

Simply pulled old gasket from door and pushed new gasket clips into existing holes and tucked in ends at bottom of door.