JB620GR2SA General Electric Range - Instructions

Real happy on how fast the new part came.
1.Pulled oven away from wall and unplugged the unit & removed baking racks.
2.Removed the back wire cover behind the oven (3 screws).
3.Used the nutdriver to carefully remove the two holding screws inside the oven. Then I pulled the element towards me to expose the wires.
4. Using the pliers, I disconnected the element from the wires.
5. Using my son's help, I had him push the new element leads into the holes in the back while I connected the leads to the wires behind the oven.
6. Replace the two element retaining screws inside the oven.
7. Replaced the rear panel with the 3 screws.
8. Put the oven back in place and plugged it in. The oven worked perfectly!

I turned off the breaker for the oven. I used a electric drill with a 1/4 in socket to unscrew the two bolts inside the bottom of the oven. Then I pulled
out the heating element and slid off one connector and attached it to the new element. Then I slid off the other connector and attached it to the new element. Then I screwed the bolts back. I turned the breaker back on and it worked great.

Turn off circuit breaker.
Lockout (LOTO) circuit breaker.
Pull stove away from wall to access the rear of range.
Remove seven (7) screws from rear cover with nutdriver / screwdriver.
Carefully, disconnect stake-on terminals (wires) from element (may need to use needle nose pliers).
Open oven, remove racks.
Remove two (2) screws holding element in place with nutdriver.
Remove old broken element.
Insert new element. Fasten with screws previously removed. Close oven door. Go to rear of unit.
Reconnect wires to element. Make sure insulation seals around the element.
Inspect for any other damage; repair as may be required.
Replace cover panel and fasten with the seven screws previously removed.

Does not hurt to vacuum and clean the area stove, too.
Push stove back into position.
Remove LOTO and turn on circuit breaker (power)

Turn oven on to highest temp to bake off any contaminates on element. Turn OFF. Let cool. Replace racks a/r. Close oven door.

Invite the pretty girl next door to come over to bake something.... OK, this part is optional.

First step is to unplug the range. Then simple to remove top portion of two part back panel behind controls console, then remove knob and two screws for control, then use needle nose to transfer push-on connectors from old control to new control one at a time, finish re-assembly in reverse order.

Replaced temperature sensor in the oven first ($10 part, always start with least expensive possibility!), but that didn't solve the problem. 5-10 minute repair, not counting moving the range in and out of it's home between cabinets. Next replaced the control board ($90 part) which solved the overheating problem. 15 to 30 minute repair, don't be intimidated by all the wires. Remember to turn off power at the breaker (duh). Order the faceplate graphic ($37 part) because chances are the old one won't peel off cleanly (ours didn't, "I was really careful Honey!!) and the otherwise excellent PartSelect.com website doesn't suggest the part might be needed. Anyway, I saved a minimum of $80 plus Labor by doing it myself. I had the advantage of living about 100 miles from their warehouse and got NEXT DAY delivery from FedEx instead of 3-5 business days. Suggest you order before noon.

Repair: unscrewed the back panel- 2 screw and the sensor and bake element from the inside had 2 screws each. Just stuck them through their old hole from inside to the outside, pushed plug back together. Then screwed back into place, screwed back plate back on. Plugged stove in, turned on the oven and within 2 seconds the bake element was blood red and temp. was up to 350 in less then 10 min. Come to find out only needed the oven sensor -$10.00part but I already ordered the bake element so I went a head and replaced it - cost $50.00. Have a great oven again for less then $70.00repair.

First I had to remove the oven ceiling screws bracing the broiler element. Second I removed the screws holding the connectors at the back of the oven before I could disconnect the two wires ( which were awkward for me to get to because I am 5'2" but was able to reach without removing the oven door).

I reconnected the two connectors and screwed the brace into the back of the oven. Then replaced the screws into the ceiling of the oven to hold the unit in place.

I was very pleased to have been able to do this project on my own and the broiler is working fine.

Remove upper rear cover (4 hex screws), then I removed the 4 phillips screws that mount the control panel, I memorized the wire positions (easy since they are color coded) unplug the wires and remove the old control panel. The face plate of the control panel did not come off easily and the adhesive pulled off some of the white paint, leaving an unsightly clear edge. So I used white-out, and painted the areas where the finish had pulled off. It worked beautifully, and the color match is perfect. Then I reapplied the face plate, put the new control panel in position, connected wires, screwed screws, repositioned rear cover, screwed screws, plugged it in and it was done. The longest pare of the job was waiting for the white-out to dry.

Replacement was extremely easy. The new part fit perfectly and installed very easily without tools. Also, I received the part within a few days

Replacing the sensor was a snap and not as involved as I feared. 1) open the oven door; 2) remove the one hex screw holding the old sensor to the back of the oven; 3) gently pull the sensor, pulling the wiring out to access the plastic wire connector (carefully guide the plastic wire connector through the opening); 4) loop a small piece of wire (stiff enough to form a hook) around the base of the wire connector to keep the wire from falling into the back wall of the oven; 5) unclip the connector and remove the bad sensor; 6) clip in the new sensor; 7) remove your catch wire; 8) thread the wiring back through the opening; 9)position the new sensor and secure with the hex screw; and 10) turn on the oven and prove to your wife you do know what you are doing!

Threw the breakers off for the range. Removed the 2 screws on element connection end. Pulled element out 3 to 4 inches being careful not to scrape insulation on 220 wires. Had wife hold element from moving as I wiggled off the pair of wires from the element connectors. Next made sure wires were clipped in wooden sprung closepin to prevent slippage back into the rear of the hole in the oven. Next removed the screw holding the thermo lead being carefull not to kink or twist it. Removed the final 2 screws from the front hangers and removed the old unit from the cavity.

Placed the new unit in the cavity and slid the front clip backwards 3 inches to allow work romm when the unit was attached. Doing it this way allows the element to float so you have both hands to reconnect the 220 wires. After reconnecting then rescrew the thermo to the connection plate and carefully slide the unit backwards in the front clips allowing the wire connections to be put where they belong without touching the range sides or rear panel. Replace the final 2 screws when the unit is seated properly in the back wall.

Flip the breakers to on and test your handywork. You should see a glow off of the element in 30 seconds or less. Be aware a small bit of production lubricant may burn off with the first heating of the unit. No worry as it is a small wisp.

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

the chief of the house(not me) did not let the oven finish self cleaning process and that's why this happend.So for everybody - let it finish you'll get no trouble.But repair itself was easy.1-open the oven and take a racks out; 2-unscrew a support of the element on back wall(2 screws);3pull of the wall and unscrew back panel(5screws);4-unplug connectors and pull the element out of the oven.5-installation is the same but backward 4 to 1.It took me...think less then 4 minutes (I went for a beer).DIY and U save a tons.And BTW those guys from Part Select - excelent service.I'm glad that I found a website like that.It's all ready in my favorites.Thanx guys for quick and very good service.It came what I order and it came in 2(two)days.Keep in touch

The draw pictorial was not very clear. I orderd the two rear supports for the over storage draw, not sure they were correct.
They were correct and the design had been upgraded to add strength to the support.
The draw is now operational..better then ever.