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Lid kept popping off Pantry drawer
Could not figure out why this was happening suddenly. Then remembered I had recently changed the lid to one I had stored for over two years in the garage. They had sent me a replacement lid when the unit was less than a year old because the origianl had a crack in the clear section. Noticed it seemed a little warped. Thought I would replace it to see if that solved the problem. We had to replace the side panel of the draawer because the warped lid had broken the peg off of one side. I didn't want that to happen again. The new lid did the job....This company is the only one I will use in the future for my appliances. Very easy to find parts and the pricing was better.
I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!
little hinge thingy that holds pantry door snapped off
Removed the three screws that held part, lifted and removed old part and replaced with new piece. Couldn't have been easier. Saved me the $100 the repair man quoted me. Cannot believe it was so easy and the part was soooo affordable! Thank you very much for the speedy delivery. It came within days of my order. I will use your service again for sure! Thank you! Allyn Rosenzweig
All three lights are not working...lights are off but refrigerator still cooling. Also, the control box not lit up to show the temparture for freezer and refrigerator
Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.
replaced the poorly designed "duck bill" drain with this P trap. Very simple repair done by accessing through the back of the refrigerator. The video on this website walked me right through the repair. It did however fail to mention that the ice has to be removed from the inside. I had to remove the drawer face and pull outs. Then the ice maker and back panel are removed. I used a heat gun and screwdriver to chip and melt the ice build up. If one had the luxury of having another refrigerator to move food in to you could just unplug the unit until the ice melts.
The frost free drain behind the freezer compartment clogged and water collected in the bottom of the freezer and eventually came out the door on the right front of the refrigerator.
The other instructions and the video provided by Parts Direct are pretty good with instructions, but they omit two steps. First, if you have an ice maker, you will need to unplug the connector on the back side of the panel you remove at the back of the refrigerator to access the drain tube. Just unplug it and you can move the removed panel to the side without disconnecting any of the water lines. Second, the instructions say to just reconnect the "bottom end" of the new p-trap drain to the drain pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. They don't tell you there are two places to connect the new p-trap to the drain pan. The original tube/trough connected to the one at the back of the drain pan on the left (viewed from the rear of the refrigerator). At first, it looks like the new p-trap won't reach to it for the connection, but if you look closer, there is another connector to the right of the original one that the p-trap connects to properly. Replacing the drain trough with the new p-trap was actually pretty easy and would only take about a half hour. Add another half hour to give the refrigerator coils a good cleaning as they will need it now that you can reach them. The real time consumer, 3 to 4 hours, is needed to use a hair dryer to melt and clear the ice from the condenser at the back of the freezer so the water can drain. Just take your time and all the ice will eventually melt and drain out so the new p-trap will work properly.
Existing icemaker would freeze up, stop making ice.
I did not unplug the refrigerator. Your choice on this. Take a close look at the existing icemaker, how the wires are routed and what the water spout looks like as it relates to the icemaker. Small flat-blade screwdriver will help in unlocking tabs on the icemaker plug. Go ahead and unplug it. Of the three screws that secure the icemaker, two are impossible to see without holding a mirror in your third hand. Completely remove the bottom screw (by feel). Don't drop it, like I did. Have no idea where it went. Loosen the top two screws but do not remove. Icemaker will lift off of the top two screws when you push it up. With old icemaker out of the way, plug in the new icemaker. Be careful to properly align the water spout into the new icemaker as you hook it on the two top screws. When everything looks good, tighten the two top screws. Replace the bottom screw, if you didn't lose it. My icemaker is doing fine without a bottom screw. It should make some ice within an hour, or so. Mine did.
Unplug the electric flat plug from wall. Loosen up 3 mount support screws , Change out unit. Mount Int back onto 3 support screws . Plug in electronic flag plug , It only goes in one way since the plug as a grove on it.
Hardest part is access to the icemaker itself. Once I removed the freezer door (bottom drawer freezer), and got the sliding basket out, it was a 10 minute job. Make sure you start the upper screws first, the icemaker will hang there while you adjust, connect the harness, and tighten. Make sure you are ready before you close the door, it will start making ice as soon as the door is closed.
I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid
First, make sure you have the correct part. I had trouble with mine, at first, until I realized that I had received the wrong part... it was same shape but larger. To begin, remove both fruit/vegetable drawers. Remove deli drawer. Remove deli drawer glass panel with both supports. Remove 3, 1/4" hex screws that attach end-cap. Disengage temp control slide and arm from end-cap by carefully moving parts in the direction where they will disengage. Remove temp control slide from end-cap. Now that end-cap is out, remove 2 screws that hold metal drawer slide to end-cap. Attach drawer slide to new end-cap. Attach temp contol slide and connect the plastic arm. Attach end-cap to refrigerator. Replace glass shelf, supports and drawers. Done.