HVM1540DP2WW General Electric Microwave - Instructions

thank you very much.

I thought I could just unscrew the bulbs in the SpacemakerXL Microwave Oven. The bulbs melted into the bulb socket so every attempt to unscrew the bulb with pliers just broke the socket. So I took out the few screws holding up the bottom panel(with the bulbs and filters). I unplugged the electrical connection and took out the sockets but I used PAM Cooking oil on the electrical connections plugging into the sockets to avoid pulling the wire holders from the connection. Replacing both bulbs and the sockets at the same time makes sense since the heat from the stove melts the bulbs in the socket.

simply to install new bulb. Unscrewed the under the microwave lamp door with a screwdriver. Inserted new bulb into socket. good to go

Changing 2 lightbulbs is NOT ROCKRT SCIENCE. With a screw-driver, remove the under MW light lens, unscrew the 2 burned out light bulbs, and replace with 2 new quality light bulbs. Test out that both are lite and working as they should, replace the lens and you are done, Until you find out one of the new (made in Chins) light bulbs is burned out after about 6 hours of being lite, call the parts phonr number and order a new replace bulb.

simply unscrewed protective lens cover, and swapped bulbs--these bulbs are great--last for years

Removed the above stove microhood. Removed the side panels & the top panel. Diode located on right hand side of microwave. Removed with screwdriver & replaced new diode. It's best to get the microwave schematic online to pinpoint location of the part.

We put the new glass lens in the metal frame and screwed the frame in under the microwave. Easy, breezy! Like new condition!

I removed light bulb cover shield,took out defective bulbs and replaced with new ones. 5minute repair

looked up video on web for microwave repair, found what I needed for job. less than 1 hour to look up video, view, and replace control panel. worked great.

Removed the microwave with the buit in housing from the cabinet. Removed microwave from built in housing. Removed outer cabinet giving access to remove control panel and smart board where switches are located. Removed control panel to get to smartboard. Removed smart board after disconnecting a few wires to allow easy removal. Individually removed and then tested each switch using multimeter. Found seondary Door Switch (bottom of smart board) operation to be intermittent (switch trip button extremely loose and rattle inside this particular switch) Ordered replacement part which came very quickly on standard shipping order. Put new switch on smart board and remounted, reinstalled control panel and reconnected various wire connectors previously disconnected. Then plugged in oven and tested for opertation - didn't work at all! But, after bleeding off capacior charge by removing connectors and discharging capacitor to ground, then reassembling control board and smart board into oven, then trying agian, it has worked perfectly ever since. Do not understand why capacitor disconnect/discharge was required but suspect this reset the control electronics. Easy fix and hope to get another 12 years out of this appliance which is used multiple times every day. Also have two other identical micorwave ovens, one is 20 years old, but these get used relatively infrequently.

every thing is working, but no hot

Threw the old filter away and slide the new one in without any tools ! Filter should be cleaned every month - who knew ?

Took out five screws on microwave bottom, removed the two screws in the socket and unplugged the light socket. Plug in new socket, screw in place with 2 screws. Lock in microwave bottom,and screw in 5 screws. Replace bulbs. Be sure and either unplug microwave or switch off at electric service box, before starting. Of course, hubby did all the work, but I supervised.

I tried to replace a light bulb over the cook stove without turning off the power supply. The light socket had deteriorated and the bulb base shorted out on the microwave frame. I ordered new sockets and bulbs. Replacing them was s simple matter with the power off. However, there was still no lights working with the power on. I pulled to cover off on top of the microwave (two screws) and checked the fuse. Continuity test showed it to be ok. Next I pulled the cover off the control panel and pulled out the mother board. On the back side I noticed two burnt pins. I applied solder with a solder gun to replace the burnt off solder. I put it all back together and it works fine.

First, there are three door operated switches in this model. The monitor sw, the secondary sw (both of these are on the bottom in the same bracket) and the door sensing sw on top. The door sensing and secondary switches are both N.O. and have the same part number (probably why you show just two switches). The monitor sw is N.C. and it was not my problem. The secondary sw was bad on my oven but I had replaced the door sensing sw (which wasn't bad) on a previous order and kept the old one so I used it to make the repair. All three switches can be accessed without removing the oven by removing the discharge louver (remove two flat head screws on top and slide the louver to the left) then carefully remove the control panel (one screw on top and lift out). The switches are held in place by a plastic tongue that fits into the rear mounting hole on the switch. I used a common screw driver with a small tip to gently lift the tongue and slide the switch out with needle nose pliers. The new switch just snaps back in. The switch holder bracket looks like it would be easily broken so be gentle. I don't know what the symptoms would be if either of the other switches were bad so I would recommend buying all three and you would have them if one of the others failed in the future. The information I gave on the switches came from a schematic I found inside the control box. Hope this is helpful.