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Belt deteriorated, cracked, slipping
I just followed the video instructions and really they were not as good as some of the customer descriptions which were far more detailed. It was like an experienced repairman telling another experienced repairman how he has been doing this repair for 20 years. The customers get into the kind of detail that is very helpful. More important parts select never tells you to read the blogs first before ordering your parts. $100 later I bought a new GE dryer which I would have done 10 days ago had I known Maytag has a repetitive problem with the high limit thermal fuse which no one has a cure for. So I did a whole bunch of repairs replacing parts on a dryer which needed to be replaced.
The round exhaust duct in the back my dryer can be removed simply by pulling straight out. This gives full access to the belt tension wheel. Slip belt off the wheel, remove snap ring with snap ring pliers, remove washer and wheel. Install new wheel, attach belt, and reinstall duct by looking right down the middle to line up properly. Dryer sounds like new again. 10 minute job.
Our Maytag dryer wouldn't spin under a load of wet clothes.
After checking out a video showing how to change the belt I decided to tackle the job. First I pried up the top, there are two plastic tabs in the front corners that hold the top down to the front panel. The top swings upward and will stay in position while you continue to work. Using a 3/8 socket, I removed 4 bolts that hold the front panel onto the frame. Be sure to unhitched the wiring to the door switch and those to the control panel and then the front will come out by lifting it off the tabs in the lower corners. Put the front panel aside and slide the drum forward and out of the dryer frame. Remove the old belt noting how it ms oriented around the tensioner and motor pulley. Now everything should be exposed and you should take the time and clean the inside if I were you. Our dryer was filled with lint and dust but after a good vacuuming and wiping down with a damp sponge, it looked like new again. Put the new belt around the drum noting where it had sat before. There is a grove in the drum but our belt did not go inside their but on the drum itself. Slide the drum back in place and from underneath put the belt on the pulley and under the tensioner. Replace the front panel, rehitch the wires and put the top down and your done. My wife helped clean the inside which took longer than replacing the belt. Total time about an hour or so cleaning time included.
trouble with lining the drum on the rollers after belt installation
disassembled the entire dryer drum and front bulkhead plate. Installed belt and replaced drum on rollers and positioned idler pulley .Video was very helpful in positioning drum and belt onto idler pulley. More trouble with the existing dryer vent replacement after repairs were complete
The door switch was easy to replace. It is located in the right bottom of the door and I popped out with my fingers. Follow the wire connectors from the old switch and remounted back in.
Removed door assembly* making note of the wire positions on the door switch * When removing the door assembly DO NOT LET IT DROP DOWN! Doing so will destroy the door switch. Swing the door assembly upward from the bottom toward you as high as it will go then pull it free.
Removed the drum and belt assembly.
Removed the idler pulley and idler pully spring.
Vacuumed up the interior dryer floor and blew out the motor w/ comp air. Also cleaned the ribbed motor pulley with a nylon brush and brake cleaner sprayed on a shop towel.
Removed the drum tires and cleaned their shafts and internal bearing sleeves with brake cleaner sprayed on a shop towel.
Reinstalled the drum tires after lubricating their shafts with a very light coat of general purpose grease.
Replaced the idler pulley and idler pulley spring after cleaning and lubing shaft and pulley bearing as done on the drum tires.
Reinstalled the drum with the new belt (ribbed side down) roughly in place.
Reinstalled the front door assembly after reconnecting it's wiring making sure to insert it's top locking tabs with the bottom of the door held up high then swung down into place
Tensioned the belt by positioning the flat side of the belt that comes down the right side of the drum over the idler pulley flat side down and then the ribbed side of the belt over the motor shaft. You will have to move the idler pulley arm to apply full tension against the spring in order to have the slack to get it around the motor shaft.
Reinstalled the lower front panel.
Checked dryer operation OK.
This repair was rated a bit difficult because I didn't know the trick for removing/installing the door assembly and destroyed the switch. Furthermore, putting the belt back on is a somewhat difficult challenge because you have to do it mostly by feel
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Noisy and blower wheel spin without turn motor shaft
Removed lower panel, door assembly, belt and drum. Removed blower wheel cover. Used dremmel tool to cut plastic from metal that attaches the blower to the motor shaft. Used adjustable wrench to keep motor shaft from turning. Used vise grip to clamp on metal and turned to loosen blower wheel. Attached new blower and re-assembled.
The dryer had been squeaking for at least 6 months when it finally became painfully loud and unacceptable
. I had replaced the idler pulley a number of years ago so I assumed that the noise was now due to either the sliders at the front of the drum or bad rollers at the back.. I removed power by turning off the breaker that serviced the dryer. After removing the lower front panel via the two sheet metal screws at the bottom I then removed the door panel. The safety switch behind the door had to be removed by depressing the sides of the switch after disconnecting the two push on connectors. One will discover that reconnecting the smaller of the two contacts to the unused contact on the switch will allow one to run the dryer with the door off or open. This can be useful to test operation after the repair is complete before reassembling the door and lower panels. I then removed the large panel that secures the front of the drum. The drum is then removed after releasing tension on the drive belt. All rotating parts and sliders could then be checked. Upon disassembly I found that the rollers and sliders appeared ok and decided to replace the idler pulley as a last attempt to fix the problem. This is best done by removing the tension arm and tensioning spring. the pulley is then more easily removed from the arm using snap ring pliers. After replacing the pulley and thrust washer with new parts I reassembled everything. I found it helpful to pretension the arm using a zip tie wrap in that the belt can be more easily reinstalled on the drum and pulley. When the drum and belt is properly in place and belt threaded, one can reach in with a pair of cutters and snip the tie wrap to re tension the system. The dryer has been running normally again for a week after affecting this repair.
I watched the repair video and followed the instruction given to replace the belt. The instructions were easy to follow and to the point. The one thing that was not covered was to vacuum the interior prior to closing the dryer up.
