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After cleaning, F1-1 error flashed and neither oven worked
First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your website. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!
Shattered inside glass when attempted to self-clean
Door was removed very easily. Outside trim pieces were removed. The rest came apart like a simple puzzle. Inside glass is very easily accessed. Upon assembling, time was well under an hour. Shipping was fantastic and I saved close to 200dollars between a service call and a repair.
The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not look for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine. Mike
Leveler screw in. Adjust to height of counter top since stove has lip that rest on counter top. Oven lens cover difficult to unscrew. Use rubber glove to get better grip!
Easy repair for anyone! First, cut the power to your stove to be safe (breaker switch in the fuse panel). -Pull the stove out so you can get to the sides. There is a screw on either side, near the top of the side, and front. Unscrew both. -Remove the 2 screws on the top panel, and 4 screws underneath the front lip. -The front panel is now free. Peel off the old sticky touch pad, unplug the two ribbon connectors (push in on the locks on the sides of the plug-in), and set aside. -Thoroughly clean the surface , removing all sticky residue. -Plug the new pad in, peel back the sticky protective paper, and carefully align the new pad, pressing it firmly into place when lined up properly. - Set the panel in place, replace all screws, push the stove into place, turn on the power and bake a cake!
Hired a pro. Parts are difficult to get on a timely basis today , if at all. Screw up this repair by damaging the outer " black glass " and you buy a new stove. It took three weeks to get my replacement glass even though PS said the part was being sent within a day of the order. Even so , I am am happy to have gotten it , and will continue to use the company.
I took the door off and removed five phillip screws from the old bottom support and removed it. I took the opportunity to clean the glass on the front and back before placing it back on. It simply fits into two keepers at top and is held on by the new support at the bottom. I replaced the five screws and put the door back on. It is a simple job that only takes a few minutes.
No instructions with part, so I had to look up on internet. This took more time than installing it. Think basic instructions should come with the expensive part.
• Removed the oven door (pulled right off old hinges) • Removed two screws • Removed broken hinge • Placed new hinge in place • Replaced screws • Replaced oven door.
Dual inner element stopped working. The ceramic portion had a crack most likely from thermal stress over the years.
First I found a YouTube video for Maytag Range Repair – How to replace the Surface Element with Limiter - 6" - 1200W
The steps are very easy- 1. Open oven door and locate and remove 2 screws holding top cook surface. These are located near the top inside edge
2. Lift surface cook top and then remove 4 screws holding this section to the cook top. This may require 2 people but I was able to hold the cook top and loosen the 4 screws myself. Then put the cook top aside.
3. Take a photo of the element being replaced for wiring connections.
4. Removing the wiring and element holding clips was very easy. I used needle nose pliers for both
5. The clips have to be removed from the old element and put on the new one. Place them in the same locations
6. Make sure to reconnect the wires to the same pin locations. The replacement element I had the red (hot) wire pin 2b was in A different location so I had to use the extension wire supplied with the new replacement element
7. Put everything back together in reverse order.
Easy peasy, took me about 40 minutes to complete the entire replacement and have it back in place working.
Bought new hinges as that was the obvious problem. Below is the removal, installation process for new hinges. Turns out in my case there was nothing wrong with the hinges. Problem was still there after installing new ones. I found that the metal in the door that butted against the hinges was fatigued causing looseness. I ended up compressing the metal back into shape with a hammer. Problem solved but money wasted on hinges. If you replace hinges. Here is what I did. 1. Open door slightly to where it stops in broiler position. 2. Remove the door by pulling up. 3. Remove two screws in front of hinges that hold them in. 4. Pull range out a few inches for access the remove the side fillers that trim out the stove. 5. Reach in from the side and work hinges out. 5. Pop in new hinges and reattach the 2 front holding screws and the side trim screws. You are done.
