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Old hinge spring broke
• Removed the oven door (pulled right off old hinges) • Removed two screws • Removed broken hinge • Placed new hinge in place • Replaced screws • Replaced oven door.
Bought new hinges as that was the obvious problem. Below is the removal, installation process for new hinges. Turns out in my case there was nothing wrong with the hinges. Problem was still there after installing new ones. I found that the metal in the door that butted against the hinges was fatigued causing looseness. I ended up compressing the metal back into shape with a hammer. Problem solved but money wasted on hinges. If you replace hinges. Here is what I did. 1. Open door slightly to where it stops in broiler position. 2. Remove the door by pulling up. 3. Remove two screws in front of hinges that hold them in. 4. Pull range out a few inches for access the remove the side fillers that trim out the stove. 5. Reach in from the side and work hinges out. 5. Pop in new hinges and reattach the 2 front holding screws and the side trim screws. You are done.
Leveler screw in. Adjust to height of counter top since stove has lip that rest on counter top. Oven lens cover difficult to unscrew. Use rubber glove to get better grip!
Easy repair for anyone! First, cut the power to your stove to be safe (breaker switch in the fuse panel). -Pull the stove out so you can get to the sides. There is a screw on either side, near the top of the side, and front. Unscrew both. -Remove the 2 screws on the top panel, and 4 screws underneath the front lip. -The front panel is now free. Peel off the old sticky touch pad, unplug the two ribbon connectors (push in on the locks on the sides of the plug-in), and set aside. -Thoroughly clean the surface , removing all sticky residue. -Plug the new pad in, peel back the sticky protective paper, and carefully align the new pad, pressing it firmly into place when lined up properly. - Set the panel in place, replace all screws, push the stove into place, turn on the power and bake a cake!
Hired a pro. Parts are difficult to get on a timely basis today , if at all. Screw up this repair by damaging the outer " black glass " and you buy a new stove. It took three weeks to get my replacement glass even though PS said the part was being sent within a day of the order. Even so , I am am happy to have gotten it , and will continue to use the company.
Crazy codes and not heating the oven properly at desired temp settings
1. Turn power off and loosen and remove screws. Pull out sensor from mounting hole and expose wire connector. Remove old sensor. Select appropriate wire adaptor and reconnect the sensor. Carefully push connector through hole and secure with screws removed previously. Turn power back on and cycle oven to make sure oven operates properly. If you have an oven thermometer it can be used to compare set point of oven to thermometer to make sure readings are the same. All done! Happy wife can now bake cookies again and now I can go back to man cave for other projects!
My igniter burnt out. My oven stopped lighting up.
I ordered a new igniter and when it arrived, i removed the door from the oven. It just lift's off. I had to removed two screws from the bottom plate to gain access to the igniter. Remove the two screws from the igniter and unplug it from the back of the lower back of the stove. Place the new igniter where the old one was and plug it in. Put new screws in and tighten them down. Put the bottom plate back in its place with screws tightened. Put oven door back on and turn on the oven. That's all there is to it. Your done.
Oven wouldn't reach temp, gas smell and loud pop when gas would re-ignite,took 45 mins or more to reach 350' from starting temp of 100'
Considered calling a repair facility, after reading your tips and what parts should fix what problem I decided to fix myself. Moved oven out,slide in gas range. Took off probe and tested with volt ohm meter, read 1090 ohms, should have been good. I could see oven igniter glow red, but I decided to replace both units, glad I did. Oven go's from 100' to 350' in 8 minutes now, for less than $85.00 have a fully functioning oven now. I'm sure the repair would have exceeded $300.00 or more being we live in a rural area. Thanks for the tips from your experts as well as you customers.
Watched first warranty repair tech preform first costly replacement by removing 8 panel screws on face of oven. Same malfunction twice in last 4 years. The second and third replacement I did myself with just my trusty screw driver. Tip: Keep order receipt handy for easy reorders.
Oven would preheat but would not maintain temperature or sometimes would not preheat. Was temperamental
1. Remove the oven door by opening a few inches and lifting straight up. Remove racks to access it. 2. The old igniter is just held in by two nuts that have a screw head in the middle of them so they could be removed by a nut driver or by a screwdriver. Unfortunately, both of our screws threads were terribly stripped and after first trying to use pliers to help remove them, we ended up using a dremel tool to cut them off. 3. unplug the old igniter and take it out. 4. Plug in the new igniter. 5. attach the two screws. (our time on the repair was mostly spent trying to find two screws around our house that would replace the two that were stripped--otherwise this would have been 15 minutes). 6. return the door and racks by the sliding the door downwards onto the hinges
Removed door and bottom oven pan to expose igniter. It was held in place by two sheet metal screws. Tried to back them out but due to heat damage , they stripped. I used my versa tool with a metal blade to cut the screws. I removed the old igniter and disconnected the plug, after I guided it out from the insulation. I installed the new igniter with two new self tapping screws after I connected the plug and guided it back through the insulation. Reinstalled the oven pan and door. I set the oven to 350° and the new igniter worked. Wife is happy and I saved the repairman fees.
