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Washer would not spin or drain
I went to You tube sight to see how I can remove front of washer so I could inspect inside and see if the problem was visible. A butter knife easily released the tabs that hold the front of washer on. My wife in the mean time found a you tube video that showed the same problem and I ordered the part right away. It showed just two screws and a plug that had to be removed. I always buy my parts from part-select because the quality and speedy delivery and tracking is great! This was an easy fix!
Removed panel to access the interlock switches. There were two. The button on one switch was fine and the button on the other would not depress. Ran a continuity test and it failed. The switch also had a burnt smell
If you're handy with a right angle grinder and a cutoff wheel, it can be done.
Order the washer hub, hub nut, and the spring washer above the hub nut.
Get the agitator out. a pair of flat bars and some hammering on the agitator retaining bolt helps a lot. Loosen the retaining nut a few turns, pry and hammer at the same time, repeat until he agitator comes out.
On the bottom of the tub assembly is a brown plastic bracket that holds the spin solenoid. Remove it before you dismount the tub assembly. It's easy to break, and it costs $65.
Dismount the tub assembly from the cabinet. Turn it over and remove the motor. Unbolt everything that can be unbolted. Cut away enough of the large metal plate that was bolted to the bottom of the tub so that the tub assembly will stand upright on a five gallon bucket.
Stand the tub assembly upright on the five gallon bucket. Cut away the hub nut. Try not to cut into the black steel disk on the bottom of the tub. Soak the metal parts with PB Blaster, Kroil, or similar. Slip a three foot long piece of 1 1/4 pipe or conduit over the stem that held the agitator. Hold the pipe upright. Drop a four foot long steel rod into the pipe. Use the steel rod as a slide hammer and whale away. Stop frequently to spray your penetrant, and keep hammering. Eventually you'll drive the old washer hub out of the drum. Remember, everything is plastic and not indestructible..
Before reassembly turn the tub over and clean up the mating surfaces, ditto the agitator. When reassembling use antisieze compound on the mating surfaces.
Dryer was shutting off too early, before clothes could dry
Replaced High limit thermostat per video on the website. However, the flange of new thermostat is flat, while chassis it mounts on is round to conform to drum of dryer. So new thermostat was not flush with chassis. Dryer did not shut off early (that problem solved), but instead continued to dry clothes beyond time necessary. Note that old thermostat had one side of flange slightly bent and probably more flush with chassis, and better able to sense when hot temperatures were reached. I dismantled dryer again, slightly bent new flange, re-installed. Seems to work better now .
To get to the slides, needed to take off the front panel, the top and then can loosen the front of the dryer. Pull it out enough to get to the slides and replace them.
Dryer would shut off on heat dry after a couple of minutes. I could feel the heat working. It would only continue to run on fluff/no heat
Pulled the drum an found spade clip burned on wire. Hi limit Thermostat crumbled/ broke while pulling spade clip so I trimmed back the wire, cleaned the spade clip and soldered the wire back on. Isolated the other thermostats in the system and tested for resistance. Reassembled dryer.