GS2126PADB Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

removed the back cover unplugged the unit removed the old fan blades installed the new easy to pull off and easy to install

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

Very easy once we had the pins! The amazing part was how fast we obtained them, how easy the ordering process was, and how vast and easy the selection process. Entering the model number took us right to a diagram of what we needed! The placement of the pins was almost self explanatory by the shape and size, but the diagram would have been very helpful had we needed it. My son replaced the lost pins, re-mounted the doors, and re-connected the water supply in the door in under 15 minutes. Everything works perfectly!

disconnected el. power to fridge. pried out broken switch with small screwdriner and pulled out w/water pump pliers. installed new switch and pressed into opening.

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!

We tried repairing with a new switch which was very easy to install but it didn't fix the problem.

This is an easy fix, simply remove and replace. What I was impressed with is that a how to video was provided along with my part. I wish all manufactures would offer this, the video was easy to understand and you had a good view of the operation. Thanks, a job well done.

Replacement parts looked different than the originals, however with the on-line feedback from similar customers and a well worded OM, the repair was quick and simple. Thanks to all.

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

Did all of work without removing door. Door is approximately 2 1/2" off floor, so shim door with a piece of two by four and wood shims to hold door level while removing bolts. Had mirror lying on floor underneath the hinge to see location of bolts. Removed 3 bolts that hold the metal bracket. After removing the bracket the pin slides out. Then remove another bolt from the door closer, this enables the old closer to be removed. Then replace new closer with one bolt. Slide hinge pin back in place making sure tab is toward refrigerator to line up with hole in metal bracket. Replace metal bracket with bolts. Tools used were 1/4" drive ratchet, 1/4" drive 3" extension and a 1/4" drive 5/16 " socket

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

I watched the instructional video included with the shipping date e-mail(about 3 minutes long), and simply followed the instructions. It took about 2 days for the refrigirator section to return to normal cool temperature to the level set.

No instructions with part. Found a picture on line and changed the arm, but it didn't fix the problem. Fairly easy after figured out what needed to be done to get to the part.