GMC305PDQ0 Whirlpool Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

The replacement turntable we received was an exact duplicate of the original. It was as easy as rinsing the new turntable, taking the old turntable out and putting the new one in.

The replacement of the blower was an easy repair. Just had to remove two back panels of the oven and the blower was then very accessable. Just remove the two electrical wires and then three screws and the blower came right off. Put the new blower on with the three screws and replaced the 10 or 12 screws holding the back panels and the job was complete!. The difficult part of the job was removing the combo unit from the cabinet to access the back panels. That part took some effort. Had to build a platform to slide the oven out onto after I disconnected the electrical feed wire (#6 wire) located in a junction box in my attic. Once that was done, the actual blower replacement was simple. The turntable motor was a different story...Although replacing the turntable motor was going to be as easy as replacing the blower motor, I couldn't access the underside of the microwave without disassembling the whole combo unit cabinet! That was very disappointing to me that Whirlpool didn't make that part easier to access, so I didn't replace the turntable motor. Too bad but we are just going to live with the turntable not turning!!

Removed and replaced boiler element

Part arrived in timely manner and placed it in microwave oven.

Read all the way through this once before doing it. It really helps in keeping pieces and parts separated. First I had to take off the oven door. Please do this as it will make your life so much easier! The owners instructions does a lousy job explaining how to do this. You need to insert a small Allen wrench into the holes behind the door hinge pin. Just stick them in there and leave them. If you don't have Allen wrenches you can use small nails or the like, but you have to put something into the holes. Close the door slowly, yes it will feel like you are going to break the hinges or the wrenches. When you get the door almost completely closed you should wiggle the door a bit by the handle and pull up. The door will come off. Once you get the door off you can get to work. Leave these wrenches in the hinge holes. You will need a flat surface big enough to lay the door down to work on it. Lay it down with the handle towards the surface and the broken glass facing you. Remove the 4 screws on the broken glass side, the 2 screws holding the brackets on the bottom and the 2 screws on the top of the door. You will need to wiggle the inside cover off because there are 2 little clips at the top you need to get it off of the outer glass door. You should have 2 separate pieces, the outer glass of the door and the inner tempered glass and sheet metal portion of the door. Set the outer glass door aside, somewhere safe, as you really don't want to have to reorder that part too! From there you can lay the door down with the broken inner door glass towards the work surface. Remove the screws and good pieces of glass and lay them down in the order you take them out. This helps putting them back together later. Keep the pieces together in sets so you know which set goes to each section. There should be 3 pieces of glass total in the assembly. You remove the screws and the 2 good pieces of glass. The inside door glass is accessible under a large piece of sheet metal held in place by little flanges cut into it. You can remove this sheet metal panel piece by wiggling it out away from under the hinges and away from the hinge end. There is a piece of insulation under there as well. Make sure you reseat it correctly when you put it all back together. If you don't it will stick out, and make things hard to line up. Pull the broken glass out, Put the new glass in and replace the sheet metal panel. At this point I would suggest putting the four screws you took out at the very beginning from the inside of the door back in. They keep the 2 hinge assemblies in place and they will be harder to line up if you don't. You need to work from the bottom side up but it's pretty easy to get the 4 screws back in. Don't be afraid to wiggle the pieces around so you can line up the holes. They need to line up so that the hinges line up back to the oven. Reverse how you took the other glass pieces out and put the door back together. Put the front glass piece back on and secure it in place with the bottom door brackets and screws and the top 2 screws. Lift the door unit back up by the handle and place it in the slots for the hinges exactly the way you removed it. You will feel it sort of catch when you pull the door open slowly. Remove the Allen wrenches and you are done.

Set the new one inside the microwave

removed double oven from wall removed cover from electronic cover and replaced part. realitivity simple repair

PartSelect website indicated replacing the high voltage power supply diode is the solution for "no heat" 99% of the time, but the diode was OK. There is more info at the website concerning the case of "loud buzzing and no heat" indicating the magnetron needs to be replaced. As an electrical engineer with knowledge of microwave components, this was also my best guess. However, getting to the magnetron is not the easiest job, but it's not impossible. You also have to be careful to bleed off any charge stored on the high voltage power supply capacitor. Luckily, I found my KitchenAid service manual tucked away inside the unit since I couldn't find it online.

Thanks for the excellent service. Parts cheaper than local stores, arrived on time, with NO PROBLEMS.
Installation, probably 30-minutes. Took the opportunity to clean glass, door panels, etc while disassembled, so used about an hour. Oven cleaner was a big help in the cleanup.
Very rewarding project and it saves changing the unit and and refitting the countertop.

Once we figured out to use small allen wrenches in the small holes of the hinge to enable us to lift the door off everything went smoothly. Took out six screws, lifted out the hinges - inserted new ones, replaced screws and replaced door. Yipee

I bought an old house where this Double Wall oven was not working. I looked at the suppressor and one of the Red diodes was burnt. So, I removed it, took a picture of it and send it to the sales rep. She located the part exact part and sent it within 3 days. Then I installed it and the oven worked beautifully. My Appliance repair man gave me an estimate of $760.00 and I was able to repair within 30 minutes and $60.00 part. Really happy, Thank you .

Followed a video. Followed instructions

Remove rear panel - remove sensor from inside - unplug from rear - reverse to install - did not fix problem

After 22 years the oven stopped heating in the middle of a meal prep. The fault code was F3 oven temperature problem. I googled the codes and found PartSelect described the problem and the repair and part needed. I received the oven sensor part, then turned off the power, used a screwdriver to remove 2 screws (had to find the right size flat head screwdriver to fit the square holed screws and they were pretty baked on after 22 years of use), gently pulled the sensor and wiring through the back of the oven. I used a needle-nose plier to pull the plastic connector through the insulation, then unsnapped the connector, snapped in the new sensor connector and pushed it back through the oven wall. Pretty simple repair, took me longer to find the screw driver than the actual repair.
Thank you PartSelect for making it easy and saving me a repairman visit!

Cut the power. Undid the screws to the element. Popped off the old element replaced with new,put screws back in turned power back on and Shazam it was up and going