GLTF2940ES0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

In the video sent it showed how to replace the shocks with only removing the lower front panel. I found it was easier to also remove the back panel. There are more screws but it provided open access to the pins that needed to be removed. The parts went in easily and when compared to the original equipment looked stronger.

Very simple, unplug washer for safety, remove 2 Phillips screws form bottom of front panel, slide panel down to slip the ears out of their slots. set panel off to side, remove the electrical plug on the pump, unscrew the two hold down Phillips screws, raise the pump up and slid a heavy absorbent towel under the pump, loosen the two clamps, slide the hoses off, remove the sloppy wet towel, install the new pump, and screw it down, push the electrical connection on, slip the hoses on , clamp them in place, install the front cover by aligning the slot and ears up, use a screw driver or something the raise the panel up in place then install the last 2 screws plug it in your done.

I took off the top of the washer. It seemed easier than playing with the door gasket. It took about 15 minutes. Everything worked great. The washer is working again. THANKS PARTSELECT

Remove the broken striker, screwed in the new one in less than 2 minutes...this is the second time it was replaced...the first time I was still under warranty...he took about the same amount of time to install ...I ordered 2, because I know it will be broken again....

It is a front load washer with a dryer stacked on top of it.Insaw a video on u tube. I took a neddle nose pliers ang took a spring loaded metal ring off that is holding the grey rubber boot on . I peeled it back just enough to reach ih and get the door lock in hand.I then took a phillip screw driver and removed the two screws un the front off holding the door lock..I then reversed instructions,and put the new lock in.The complete job took lease than 5 minutes,and the part did the trick. My washer works as good as new.

Removed the door lock and switch assembly. With needle nose pliers, I removed the metal ring around the washer gasket. Removed two screws on assembly and removed the entire assembly. Noted part number and ordered part which came in 3 days. Reversed the above instuctions for removing the assembly. Was washing within the hour. By the way, I am a 65 year old woman.

Unscrew 2 screws. Replace part by screwing the 2 screws back in place. Parts received in 2days part replace less than a minute

Our washer is in a very tight spot, and we use the top for storage, so it was a job moving everything and pulling the washer away from the wall. Unplugged, then took the 2 screws off the back, dropped one and retreived it with masking tape on a dowel. Got the top to slide back, then took the screws off the latch. Crammed my arm down inside (very tight) and grabbed the latch, pulling it out the top. Labeled both sides of the connections with colored masking tape (in case we need to replace this part again, but I hope not). Got everything back together, then put the top back on, dropping the same scew behind, retreived it,plugged the power in and it works!!

Removed Old Part and put on new ones just replaced all and put on new kit so would have all new parts.

Remove the seal ring underneath the front gasket.it's solid wire ring held together with wire spring.I used a screw driver to stretch wire ring from gasket.pulled gasket back from washer opening, near striker. removed two screws on striker lock assembly.pulled it out.removed all three wire attached to assembly.plugged in new assembly.replaced screws. reattached gasket and ring. done.

Removed front access panel to get to shock absorbers. Removed mounting pins with hammer & pliers. Replaced both with dual-stage shocks provided in kit (Of course, piston side down). Getting to right-side shock upper mount was the only tricky part of removal & replacement. Otherwise, not too bad. This is a repair most anyone can do. Shock absorber kit solved vibration issues.

I removed the front panel used a screwdriver to press the tabs on the plastic retainer pins then used a hammer to gently tap each of the plastic mounting pins for the shock absorbers. The left side was very easy but the right side was more difficult due to 2 things. 1. I had to use pliers to remove the hose to gain access to the upper pin. 2. When I replaced the shock absorber the bottom pin had no room to hammer the plastic retaining pin due to a large plastic box directly behind the shock absorber which was not mentioned In the YouTube Partselect tutorial. My quick solution was to replace the plastic retaining pin backwards.its working great with no problems whatsoever .Thank you Partsselect!

Remove lower front panel. Left shock is easier than right. Push in on the bump on the tip of white pin. Tap out to rear and same with upper. Assure you follow orientation instuctions for new shock absorbers. Now the hard side. Push in the bump on the lower white pin tip and drive back and possibably angle up slightly to get end of shock out. It is up against the side of an aluminum box of some sort. To remove the top pin you need to use a pliers to squeeze hose clamp and separate black tubing from white plastic. Move out of the way to get at pin. Again push bump and drive out pin. Replace new shock bottom first. I tapped the angle down first to start front of pin then, I used a small pry bar and piece of wood to press the pin back into position from the rear against the aluminum box. Now the top. A short hammer is helpful to tap pin in from rear. Be very carefull putting the hoses back together and move the clamp into position. Make sure this is correct. Test washer. Replace front panel. See, you didn't need a new washer yet. Use some of the savings to treat yourself. Watch the video but realize he skips the hard parts.

Pulled the bottom front plate off the washer to inspect. Noticed there are two small shock absorbers (like on a car) that attach from the bottom of the drum frame near the front of the washer, to the bottom of the washer frame. Both of my shocks were broken at the attaching point at the top, where they attach to the drum frame. These shocks are held in place with a nylon lock pin at both ends. All the pins were inserted from the back of the washer. The end of the pin visible from the front was a white plastic pin, about 1/2" diameter with a pointed end and a small tab to keep the pin from backing out. Tab was fairly easy to depress, but pin was not easy to push back for removal. Used a small pair of Vice Grip Pliers to clamp down the tab and provide better leverage to push the pin back. Once the tab was inside the shock mount, used a 1/4" x 6" socket extension (round side) to push the pin the remainder of the way out. There was a box pretty close to the rear side of the washer frame attachment on the right side. Pushed the pin back as far as I could until it contacted the box, then (since one new pin came with the shock kit) used the vice grips to twist the old pin out. Installation was easy after lubricating the pins. Inserted the bottom right pin from the front because of the box. Operated the washer with the panel off to observe the movement of the shocks. While there, heard some noise from the drain pump. Took hose off and there is a square rubber box that serves as a collector for waste water coming from the bottom of the washer. I found a golf tee in mine, that was lightly rubbing against the propeller of the pump (along with 5 quarters). Removed the tee, reconnected all the hoses, everything is quiet and smooth. I got lucky... check your pockets.

I have a stackable unit in a small closet. So unlike others, I couldn't remove the top or back panels and did everything from the lower access panel. I followed the video though multiple caveats as mentioned by others: 1. The right shock absorber is a pain b/c of the box sitting behind, which I could not remove (again, dryer stacked on top and no access to the back). I think its nearly impossible to insert the new plastic pin the correct way (I had to bend the old one to get it out), so like others, I put the new one in backwards (and made sure to change the direction of the shock absorber as well). 2. Reinstalling that hose that blocks access to the right shock absorber is not as easy as it looks. if you get it on right away, don't mess around with it. I had great difficulty trying to get it perfect and ultimately could never get it back to its original position. 3. I'd recommend getting a stubby (short handle) hammer to get the old pins out. As mentioned by others, you can also just use your fingers to depress the tab to get them out. After installing the shocks, it solved the problem except for the last 4-5 minutes (high spin speed). I had planned to try to see if the suspension spring was broken, but after running the washer 2 more times, it's now stopped spinning entirely and I'm planning on getting a new washer/dryer (I'm concerned it's now the bearing, possibly b/c i ran the washer 2 more times).