GDF540HSD1SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Took off the door and separated the two door pieces. Unscrewed the old dispenser and replaced it with the new one.

Drain hose elbow (#326) had a crack in it. Disconnected power, slid dishwasher out and laid on its back. Hose had two pinch clamps to remove. Replace old hose with new one and used standard hose clamps. Put dishwasher back in place and hooked power back up. Entire process took less than 30 minutes. PartSelect had elbow for about $6. GE does not sell just the elbow. They sell whole pump setup for about $106.

1. Take a picture of the old rack in the dishwasher! Just in case!
2. Remove rail channel end caps and place them on the tabletop on the correct side to make sure you put them back on the correct side.
3. Remove old rack.
4. Carefully snap off the water sprinkling unit. (carefully push down tabs so they don't break).
5. Using your picture as a reference (!) snap the water sprinkling unit on the new rack (it's easy).
6. Put the new rack back onto the rail channel and replace the end caps.

Done! Very easy installation ! Rack was not nearly as expensive as I anticipated and was delivered quickly. Note: You get the rack only. All ot the other parts are from the old unit.

I tested Heating Element with Ohm Meter-Direct Short (if open it would have been bad and I would need to replace the element. Per the Website Troubleshooting for GE dishwasher, it said Heating Element (65%), Float Switch (32%), or Computer Board (only 3% Chance of it being board). So I ordered Float Switch. Later I noticed that the dishwasher would not change wash cycles from Heavy, Normal or Light.
So I turned the Circuit Breaker on and off. This fixed the Wash Cycle.
When the Float Switch Came in, I installed it in a few minutes watching the video on the GE Troubleshooting Page. Later when it was running I checked the operation and when I opened the door, the wife says seeing the steaming water, You fixed it, the Water is Hot now ! It was all about Hot Water, not the Heating Element at all ! And I think everything was fixed when I flipped the Circuit Breaker on and off and re-set the computer board. I think replacing the Float Switch was good maintenance, cause it was really dirty and needed to be replaced soon anyway. And it may have avoided my wife's next misdiagnosis with our dishwasher. This was 2 weeks ago, and all is well.
Sincerely,
Scott

The part did not fit at all but not worth it to me to return it. The part I need is about 20 inches in length and the one sent was about 10 inches. I will simply call for this dishwasher to be repaired or replaced.

The repair instructions were great and the repair went well. The repair took less than an hour.

Thank you
Gary

YouTube search indicated the common problem was the Dishwasher Electronic Control Board, part # WD21X10537. YouTube was wrong. $83.76 mistake. (not Parts Selects fault)
I continued my search and stumbled on JustAnswers.com for $38.00.
They diagnosed the issue by me describing the lights that were blinking and for how long, and quickly told me the door latch is not registering. However, said it is rarely the door latch, but rather the Electronic Control Board, part # PS12726419 for $105.90. What the heck, I'll bite.
Bought both parts at Parts Select, quick shipping, solid packaging and good return policy (learned from previous experience). I did not return the 1st part, figured it probably wasn't long for this world anyway.
Dishwasher is running fine again. The combination of JustAnswers.com and PartSelect.com is far better than an extended warranty. Extended warranties last 3 yrs in most cases and cost as much as I spent. Someone with smaller hands could have done both repairs much quicker.

This is NOT a complaint about Parts Select (GE however has some packaging issues to resolve). It may become a complaint of Parts Select if not resolved to my full refund.

Unable to repair with provided part.

I have performed this repair in the past easily and successfully with part from GE Parts. GE Part Number: WD18X10052

GE Parts currently lists part number above as discontinued with a new GE Part
Number: WD35X10386. However not in stock

Found new part number locally however was missing the hose and plastic molded tubing that connects to pump and provides the actual diverter mechanism. Obviously did not purchase.

Ordered from Parts Select on 2021-12-22 and inquired if their part was complete. I was assured it was and paid for overnight shipping at approximate cost of $30.

Part arrives on Christmas Eve, a day late and incomplete. Called Part Select and was assured I would be reimbursed for full cost of part and shipping and was provided with shipping label to return incomplete part at their cost once their stock personnel verifies my claims.

I have photos of original/damaged but complete part beside new in package incomplete part for record and your use if you request.

Email Greg at:
One_US.Marine@yahoo.com

-Disabled power.
-1/4” nut driver to take off kickplate.
-Unplug wires harness to door
-Dismount dishwasher from cabinets and pull out 4-6 inches
-uncouple spring pulley from door hinges.
-Open dishwasher door about 4 inches and pull out and up to remove
-Lay door down and remove 4 -T20 star bolts and two 1/4” bolts from door hinges(the door hinge has four bolts, but only remove one from each hinge that connects to the inner plastic door)
-remove vent cap and push up on interior plastic door casing to separate outer and inner door.
-Unbolt the soap dispenser module via 1/4” bolts and replace with new module. (be sure to line up module and gasket properly, installing 1/4inch bolts crossways, slowly tightening each bolt for a perfect seal).
-Reassemble the inner/outer doors and reattach to dishwasher in reverse order.
Be sure to plug the doors electric harness and kickplate.
-Plug the dishwasher back in and run it through a test.

I recently replaced the user interface, which took about 30 minutes. A week later replaced the soap dispenser module, which took 20 minutes. Disassembling the door was easier the second round.

I would read this project very easy for somebody with technical skills and easy with no prior skills

Simply unscrewed the old damaged arm and screwed the new one on, took less than a minute

Board did not work. The socket for the jumper pins wasn’t installed on the board. Not sure if it was the correct unit. Decided to forget about doing a repair and just replaced the unit

I was very confident that the problem with my GE Adora DDT595SSJ5SS was that it needed a new UI board. It had been beeping randomly for a couple of months, requiring a circuit breaker reset every so often, until finally it stopped working entirely. When I looked at the main board underneath, the LED was flashing too fast for me to count the blinks. These were the signature signs of the UI board going out -- and this did indeed turn out to be the problem. I've run the dishwasher several times since replacing the board, and there have been no issues.

The only real issue I had with the repair job was removing the dishwasher door. This was because the door of my model was held in place by a pair of tension cables (bottom left and bottom right of the unit), rather than hinges, and the cable method of attachment is less documented online. I had to get hold of a user manual for my unit to even discover this fact about it, since I had purchased my home with this dishwasher already present and did not see it being installed originally.

What I had to do was to pull the unit out about five inches, exposing the attachments for these cables (they are on the outside of the unit), so I could hook my heavy wire hook under them and detach them. If your dishwasher has these cables on the door, you really do need a hook tool of some sort to remove them. If you have strong wire, you can make one yourself as I did. Anyway, removing the cables allowed me to remove the door. After that it was straightforward to unscrew and unbolt the various panels, set the jumpers on the new UI board, and screw everything back together.

I should note that the cables were not tricky in any way, just that all of these Adora units seem to be a bit different and I happened to have one with a method of attaching the door that is not very well documented. I hope that this helps someone with this type of unit. If you see those videos online referring to detaching the door from hinges, and you can't find anything on yours that looks or feels like that, consider that you might have cables instead on the outside of the unit.

Took out the old and swapped out the parts from the old one and put them on the new rack. Looks great and works great.

I replaced the flood switch following instructions shown in readily available YouTube videos. In short, you remove the coarse and fine filters, then take out the bracket holding in the flood switch and finally the switch itself. After replacing the switch, the dishwasher works normally again.

Looked upm the problem it said door wasn.t closed so cause was the door latch. put in the new one no change so I bought a new dishwasher