GBD277PDS3 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

ordered new broiler pan

Unplug power cord, remove wires from block. take 2 screws out. replace with new block about 15 mins. Done

I first removed the door from the front of the oven according to instructions that I found on the Internet from others that have had similar problems. I then removed a total of 8 screws - 4 that were holding the door together, and 2 each for the two hinges that I replaced. After replacing the hinges, I re-installed the 4 screws and then guided the oven door back into place. It took probably about 20 minutes from start to finish, and the news hinges that I purchased solved the problem perfectly.

Remove oven from wall, remove top and back covers.Remove old fan assembly. The new assembly fit right in and works great.

Removed double oven from cabinet after removing the doors, placing it on a milk crate, needs two people, turned it slightly to access the rear panels, removed panels and lower of the 2 motors and installed new motor, replaced all panels. I now have to check to make sure it is turned on it is so quiet! We lived with this noise so long because the appliance repair people said it was very expensive, about $400.00 to replace the motor, we did it for under $100.00 !!

Did not want to remove the pin from the new hinges, so found a proper rod and cut off two half inch pins to use in removing the door. followed the manual instructions. Took all of the screws out but did not notice that the four inside face screws were machine screws while all others were sheet metal screws. Had a little difficulty in getting the four machine screws to engage the bottom holes of the new hinges. Reinstalled the door and all works fine. It is too bad that we could not purchase just a new hinge spring instead of the entire unit. It is kind of a waste. I suspect that self cleaning ovens generate a very high heat which eventually weakens the hinge. The upper oven will likely fail in the future, but at least I know how to repair it.

Removed oven from the wall. Take off back panel. Removed thermal overload thermostat. Replaced with new part and works great.

I went to the source of power on the stove and noticed one of the terminals had come loose from the terminal block and had shorted out against the cover of the terminal junction. After prying the loose terminal off cover I ordered new terminal block and received it the 2nd day. I removed the old terminal block and replaced the part in about 10 minutes..Thank you Parts Select for your easy to find diagrams and quick delivery.

Unscrewed the old thermostat took off the conectors then replaced with new one, and screwed it back on.

Like others said, the trick was getting the oven door off. If you don't have the instructions, here's how: Open the door all the way. Shine a flashlight on the hinge, and you will see an open hole about 3/16" diameter below the hingepin and toward the oven. With the door open, put a 5/32" allen wrench or any other comparably-sized metal pin into the hole in each hinge. With the pins in place, close the door as far as it will go, which is almost but not quite fully closed. Put one hand under the door handle, the other hand under the bottom of the door, and pull the bottom of the door down and out. With maybe a little wiggling, it will come right out. That's really all there is to it! Taking out all the glass layers is straightforward; you don't need any instructions to see how to do it.

By reversing the way I removed the door hinges from the frame, per the reinstall instructions. I called the 800# and they emailed me a diagram, but the hinges depicted were different than mine. When my back feels better, I'll keep trying.

I looked up the meaning of the error codes and determined that the temp sensor was malfunctioning. Looked on line for a sensor and found what I thought was the right one and ordered it from PartSelect. The sensor arrived three days later and I removed the old sensor (with some difficulty I might add). Then I discovered the connector did not match. I called PartSelect and found out that the sensor connectors had changed since the oven was built and that an after-market sensor with the right connector was available. I ordered the new one, returned the wrong one and the new one arrived three days later. I popped it in and now I have a working oven.

turned breaker switch off. unscrewed the oven from the cabinet. lifted the oven out of the cabinet (heavy & awkward, needed an extra pair of hands). removed back panel. replaced fuse. reassembled everything. this is the second time i've had to replace the thermo fuse (oven blows the fuse when set to clean). first time i replaced the fuse it took about two hours. second time it about an hour.

1. REMEMBERED TO SHUT OFF THE APPLICABLE 240V BREAKER. 2. Carefully removed the 2 screws holding the element to the oven structure 3. Carefully extracted the 2 wires from the holes at the rear. 4. Carefully removed the wires from the old element 5. Attached the wire sockets to the new element. 6. Carefully eased the wires back through the holes at the rear 7. Attached the 2 screws through the element holding clamp to the rear wall of the oven. Everything went better than I had expected.

Visited PartSelect.com and ordered the element. Talked to a really sweet lady who assisted me at the company by ordering the part. Received the part and my husband cut off the electricity to the stove, took off the old element, got the sockets and after pushing on the new element, and he screwed the screws back on, cut on the electricity and we cut the stove on and it was ready to go. VERY, VERY SIMPLE TO REPAIR.