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Broken pins holding pantry door
Removed door and crisper pans. Removed nuts on left end cap - think there were 3. Removed nuts on right end cap and one or two on back air regulator attached to right end cap. Replaced left end cap with new one using reserved nuts. Carefully removed back air regulator from right end cap. Attached back air regulator to new right end cap. Replaced right end cap and back air regulator and attached with nuts. Carefully inserted pantry door into pin on one side and slightly bent both right and left pins to insert door fully into end caps. Replaced crisper pans. That's it.
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
while closing the door, the light switch fouled, resulting in the switch breaking
I used a flat screwdriver and released the lock tab on the bottom of the light switch, and pried the switch out, being careful to not damage the plastic around the mounting place of the switch, unplugged wiring from old switch, plugged in the new one and pushed the new switch into place. Job finished light switch now working.
An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.
The lid that covers the front of the lower meat / produce drawer hinges upward on two small ( easily broken) plasic pins, one on each side of the drawer. One pin is moulded into each "END CAP" that also supports the drawer glides and glass shelf above. The entire end cap must be replaced to repair the hinge. The left side is easy (it's the only one I had to replace); the right side might be more difficult because the right end cap includes a temperature control. 1) Remove the two produce drawers above the lower drawer. 2) Lift off the front glass shelf support, the glass shelf, and the rear glass shelf support from below the two produce drawers. 3) Slide the lower drawer half way out. Remove the drawer lid by disengaging it from the remaining undamaged hinge pin on the OK end cap. Careful not to break the good one. 4) Slide the lower drawer all the way out, then lift up and towards you to remove it from its glides. 5) Using a 1/4" nutdriver or socket, remove the three recessed screws. Leave the drawer glide alone for now. 6) Pull the front of the end cap up and towards you about 3/4" to disengage it from a small retainig button at the top front. Pull the end cap toward you to disengage the two rear retaining fingers. 7) Using a small Phillips screwdriver, remove the drawer glide from the broken end cap and attach it to the replacement end cap. Note which end is the front before removing it. 8) Reassemble in reverse order. Again, be careful with the hinge pins.
While cleaning frig, I broke the right side pin the crisper door pivits on.
First I looked at new replacement part, saw what held the part to the frig. Then removed the crisper drawers and vegie drawers and related support pieces. Used socket wrench to take out three screws and started so remove endcap. Realized endcap was attached to a piece that controls air flow to drawer, located supporting screw, removed and entire assembly came right out. I fumbled my way through the linking mechanism being very careful not to force and break anything. Once I figured out how all this worked, it went back together in a few minutes. Replaced the four screws that held the 2 pieces (endcap and airflow) to frig, replace drawer slid, replaced all draws. Done 30 minutes, start to finish. I found Customer Service VERY helpful while ordering piece, couldn't believe it was under $10 and fit exactly! Thanks PartSelect.com!
The light switch on the refridgerator broke - no light.
Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.
The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.
Remove the light cover. Use a flat head screw driver to push in the tabs on the back of the program mount and pull down to expose the computer board. The Thermistor is clipped on under the vent holes on the right side. Cut both wires to remove the old thermistor strip a 1/4 inch off the remaning wires and the new thermistor wires twist both ends together crimp on the wire caps snap in the new thermistor reinstall the program board until the retainer clips snap into place, slide the light cover back on.
The guide pin, which opens the crisper/pantry lid, broke off. It is integral to the end cap.
First, I removed the drawers at the bottom of the fridge and then I removed the three hex head (7/32) screws that hold the end cap on. Then I disengaged the slider which connects to the temperature control for the pantry drawer. Then, unscrewed the drawer slides with a Phillips from the old end cap. Also the slide push rod has to be disengaged from the clips on the back of the endcap.
Then, I reinserted the push rod to the new end cap and reattached the drawer sliders and the slider itself. At this point I realized I SHOULD have unscrewed the temperature slider at the back where it covers the cold air outlet. The screw had slipped out. I replaced it with a slightly larger wood screw. Reinstall the drawers, all done.
First, I removed the Climate control drawers, the lower shelf pieces and the Chef's Pantry drawer so I had room to work.
Next, I unfastened the two screws that held the pantry drawer gilder on the broken righthand end cap and removed the glider.
With a socket tool, I unfastened the three socket-head mounting screws that held the endcap to the refrigerator wall.
The righthand endcap has a climate control adjustment mechanism which includes a finger slider and an extenson bar snapped to the backside of the endcap. This extension bar connects with another bar mounted to back inside of the refrigerator.
I carefully disconnected the climate control mechanism fixed to the refrigerator from the endcap.
With the endcap out of the refrigerator, I next had to disconnect the climate control slide and extension bar from the broken endcap by unclipping several snaps holding these pieces in place.
Now with the new endcap, I clipped the extension bar in place, snapped the finger silder in place, and reconnected this assembly to the climate control bar in the refrigerator and clipped the mechanism to the rear of the endcap.
The socket mounting screws were used to fasten the endcap to the wall. The pantry drawer glider was attached to the endcap with it's screws. The shelves and climate control drawers were put back. Finally, I carefully snapped the Pantry door to the hinge pins on both the left and the (new) right end caps and put the pantry drawer back.
tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok
Our refrigerator was too cold as the thermistor seems to have gone
It was great. We replaced the thermistor A little difficult to get to the thermistor but once we found it five minutes. My refrigerator seems happy but we will monitor it and see.
Original bracket foot brake screw hole was stripped and foot brake would not extend
The repair seemed simple, I just needed to remove the old bracket -- 4 screws -- and slip the new one on.
The tricky bit is that the roller bracket holds the weight of the fridge. So in order to make sure that the fridge did not fall over, and to keep the installation point off the ground so that I could align the screw holes, I needed to shim up the side of the fridge that I was working on.
To tap in the shims, I used a hammer and a spare chunk of wood. I ultimately used 3 shims, and kept tapping until the roller wheel could roll freely. Then I knew that the fridge was high enough. After that, it was pretty easy to remove the 4 screws, align the new bracket, and replace the screws. After that, in order to get the shims out I could just extend the foot brake as it was designed, and that lifted the fridge enough for me to easily slide out the shims. After that I just had to level out the fridge by adjusting the two feet.
Removed the hinge cover, removed three hinge screws, removed door. Then I used a screwdriver to pry out the hinge bushings, pushed the new ones in and replaced the door. Both Maytag and Lowe's (who held the extended warranty) said that the door was not a repairable item and would have to replace the whole door. Since that would cost more than the value of the fridge, they voided the warranty and returned my cost. Too bad we didn't know about Part Select, we would have held their feet to the fire.
