GAFZ21XXMK00 Whirlpool Freezer - Instructions

Disconnected power cord, removed rear cover of refrigerator, disconnected pig tail, removed 4 housing screws, took three mount screws out and removed old fan. Reversed steps, plugged in and complete repair done.

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

Removed items and defrosted freezer. I then removed metal shelves, ice maker, bottom sliding tray and false bottom, freezer back, and light bulb with wire track. Cut wires to defrost thermostat and spliced in new thermostat. Reassembled shelves, back, etc., in reverse order. Old thermostat tested "open" in hot and cold water with Ohm meter tester.

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

No prior experience in appliance repair. The majority of time was used in researching the problem and how to fix it. The Parts-Select website and the comments of prior customers made it easy to diagnose and repair. Unplugged the unit, took off the cardboard back cover, located the start device, using website comments and information pried it off, placed the new one, put cover back on, plugged in. By morning back to 40 degrees. Took apart the old one out of curiosity and it was completely burned-up on the inside.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

First I called my friend Robert in Kissimmee, Fl to have an idea regarding the problem because I had never serviced a fridge before. Then he suggested that I check with PartSelect on the Web. Then PartSelect repair videos showed me everything. I followed step-by-step but the problem persisted. I finally realized that the airflow conduit between the freezer and the fridge was clogged with ice. I then proceeded to remove the ice underneath the coil on the aluminum cover and Bingo. The problem was in fact the ice. Well, I only spent $33 dollars for the non-necessary Bimetal Defrost Thermostat. I learned a great deal from that repair.

fan motor housing had to be drilled through both sides of housing to attach to existing bracket. Possible damage to wiring inside the unit may disable condensor fan motor when motherboard is replaced. (Motherboard on order.)

Besides the refrigerator not cooling, there was a click-buzz-click noise occurring at the rear of the refrigerator every 5-10 minutes. I started by looking up the issue online, I determined the issue was either the compressor or the starter device. I ended up ordering the replcement starter device from partselect.com. The replacement was very easy. All I had to do was pull off the rear cardboard panel, unplug the wire bundle to the starter device, and pull out the starter device.

I did exactly as the man on the video showed me to do. However, I was not sure what part was broke so I replace them both. Under $100 and my problem was fixed. This place had great shipping too: 2 days. They will be my first choice next time I have a problem. Oh and our local repair company would have been $125 for just a service call and they could get to it in a week.