G3127WRA Maytag Range - Instructions

Removing the old oven bottom was easy...as it was already outside of its slots. Installing the new one was pretty easy. I placed the oven bottom in the front slots first...then the rear slots...no tools necessary.

Super easy. Turn off gas and unplug. Lift door off hinges, just pull up on it. Take racks out. Lift floor of oven out. You may need to release clips in the back of the oven, but mine were not engaged. Remove wing nut from shield plate and lift plate off. Using nutcracker, or Phillips screwdriver, remove screws holding the igniter to the brace plate. Carefully pull wires from the back of the oven wall. Carefully unplug the old part. Carefully plug in the new part. Feed wires back into the oven wall and install fiberglass padding. Replace screws, shield plate, wing nut, oven floor, oven racks and door. Door just slides back onto hinges. Watch the video on parts elect. Couldn't have been easier. Saved $500 on replacing my oven. $40 for DIY repair. Awesome!!!

I watched a repair video, unplugged the electric,turned off the gas valve and disconnected the gas line. removed the shelves and burner tray. removed 2 screws and unplugged the igniter. Replaced the igniter and put tray and racks in.Hooked up gas and plugged in the electrical plug. Job done....

Checked igniter it glowed but never got hot enough to open gas valve. I switched igniter from broiler to oven and oven burner lit. Switched igniter back to broiler as wires were shorter than the oven igniter. Ordered part from number and picture comparison. It took about 20 minutes to get it installed and all stove parts back together.

Replaced the igniter by removing 2 screws, pulling on the wires to pull the connector in from the back thru the oval opening, screwing in the the new element, reconnecting the wires, pushing the connector back and that did it.

Very easy, video helped tremendously

Pulled range out from cabinet-wall to get to back side, everthing was clearly exposed tlhen. Just a matter of installing new fixture, putting back on, reconnected power source - put range back in proper place.

Remove oven door, remove burner bar, replace ignitor, splice wires together because the old electrical connectors had melted together. Shipping was fast and extra wire, insulation and ceramic wire nuts were included.

removed oven floor, removed two screws in element . pulled out element wires, secured them so they would not fall back into slot, snaped in new element . scewed it in place , replaced floor . thanks partselect.com

Remove the door... it just pulls up and out... set the release tabs so you can remove the bottom plate .. pull out broiler drawer... unscrew the 2 screws on the igniter ..let that hang... remove the cover for the termination.. and unplug the old igniter... then reverse everything to put back together..

I removed the flame baffle , removed the two screws that held the ignitor. Then I pulled the wires thru the back wall and disconnected . I had to cut the the connector and install with wire nuts because connector was different. Works fine now .

If your igniter glows but the burner doesn't light, your igniter is more than likely bad. It should have at least 3.2V to gas valve when the igniter is glowing in order to open the gas valve. The repair is very easy with only a 5/16" nut driver equired to remove and replace the igniter. It's pretty much a plug and play reair.

I read all the reports on your site pertaining to oven igniters and decided to order one. I was amazed when it arrived the next day. I got a lot of tips reading others replys so I lifted off the oven door, took out the racks, removed the 2 screws holding the old igniter and tried to pull it out. There was hardly any slack in the wires, so I pulled the stove away from the wall, took off a breadpan size cover in back and found the wires were zip tied to a tube. I cut the tie and unplugged the wires, but the new plug didn't match so I cut the new plug off and rejoined the wires with butt to butt crimp connecters, which I prefer to wire nuts. I used the insulation and new cover from your kit as my old part had the long ceramic insulator and put it all back together. It works like new again and saved me a lot of money. I am very pleased with your product and service, thanks.

I replaced the igniter in both the oven and the broiler. This was my first time ever working on a range.
I removed the oven door for easy access. To replace the oven igniter, I took the bottom floor out of the oven. The igniter is readily visible at the rear of the burner. I removed the two screws holding the igniter with a socket wrench. The screws were somewhat stubborn but yielded rather quickly. I gently pulled the two wires attached to the igniter from the back of the oven until the connector was exposed. I disconnected the old igniter and connected the new one. Then I simply reversed the the procedure, tucking the connector and wire back through the hole it came from and re - installed the two screws in the bracket. The insulation provided with the kit was used to plug the hole in the back of the oven.

To replace the broiler igniter, I essentially followed the same procedure. However, I chose not to remove the broiler baffle. This made it more difficult to both remove and re-install the two screws holding the ignitor. Otherwise, everything else went smoothly. If I had to do it again, I'd remove the baffle.

First I removed the two screws that held the old element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.
I replaced the element with the new one and tucked the connector in the insulation. Additional insulation came with the kit. I replaced the two screws that held the element in placed. Oven worked perfectly