Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
light blub blew
unplug power from ref removed old light socket only difference wired a little different checked new socket compaired to old checked terminal ends small big looked at wires big,little plugged up put in new light blub plugged ref power back on work power off pushed socket bac in power on works
From most posts I've read, the defrost timer was the culprit so I blindly ordered one. Easy install but did not fix the problem so I broke out the ohm meter. The only other 2 items it could be all tested good with my meter so I bypassed the defrost thermostat (per forum help...actually quite easy)and it defrosted fine, which told me I needed a new defrost thermostat. Installed fairly easy and problem gone.
Based on the website I decided it was most probably the defrost timer, and that was correct. I ordered it, watched the video, and two days later the part was at my door. Took the nut driver, removed 4 screws, then removed the old defrost timer, installed the new one, re-installed the whole plastic assembly with the four screws, and done!!! Couldn't have been easier.
I removed the shelf, took off the old ends caps, replaced them with the new ones and put the shelf back in place. No glue or tools needed and the job was completed in under 2 minutes.
The original support was broken, tried epoxy and it only held for a few months before breaking again
All I had to do was remove the original support that was on the inside wall of the refrigerator, which I had to use pliers since there were broken pieces, and then I just snapped the new one into the three holes provided for this support. The crisper drawer works fine now. It literally only took about 1 minute.
1. Turned off the cooling cycle and unplugged the refrigerator. 2. Removed all of the shelving and bottom basket. 3. Removed rear covering in the freezer section. 4. If frosted over, manually defrost coils with hairdryer. 5. Located original thermostat and after marking the wire locations cut the wires and removed the Thermostat. 6. Connected matching wires using a lighter to melt the wires together. Wrapped repaired wires with electricians tape. 7. Unable to install the thermostat in the recommended location (freezer is a tight fit) the new part was installed at the original location. 8. Replaced the rear cover and shelves. 9. Plugged in the refrigerator and set the cycle back to cooling. 10. Monitored freezer coils couple of days/weeks depending on how fast they freeze over (slots at bottom of cover) to validate if problem solved.
Temperature in both freezer and fridge sections to warm!
Dear Part-select, I had a fridge that was not working food was melting in the freezer, Beer was warm. You get the picture anyway using your site I found the parts needed to to fix the issue in fact I ordered two parts one fixed the issue 50% and the other like 30% of the time! both parts with overnight shipping were cheaper than 1 part if purchased at our local appliance part outlet:) not to mention the cost of a repair person. Thanks again! . Keep up the good work
Tom Houck Spokane, WA Houck Photo 509-723-3418 tomhouck1@comcast.net
A little research told me the hum plus no cooling was either the compressor or the relay. I ordered the new relay and put it in but it didn't fix the problem. I ended up having to buy a new fridge, but it was worth the $30 gamble to see if I could fix it on the cheap and it saved me the money a service call would've cost. Pretty easy installation, just in a tight space on my model.
Fridge would not cool at all, because the compressor was not running. Fan running, lights working, just no cool.
Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.