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Stopped agitating versus level washer feet/leg
My washing machine stopped agitating and spinning and I couldn't afford a repair man...plus I wanted to exhaust any obvious problems first. One of the leveler feet had broken years ago. Since I luckily had determined via reading other posts that the agitator won't work if the cycle safety switch is not functioning right, I thought the safety switch might need to be changed but after careful thought, I decided to order a new levelling leg first because maybe the broken levelling leg was shaking the safety switch so it wasn't connecting right. Once I received the leg overnight, I flipped the washer on its side and had to drill out the old leg. It was a little tricky because of how it broke, but the drill worked. I flipped the washer back up, leveled it with the new foot, and the agitator was miraculously working again...just like new. I didn't need the safety switch. Thanks to partselect.com for having the details of my washer parts to study up on and get me the right part so quickly. I saved myself alot of money.
unplugged the dryer, discontected the sensor and unscrewed the bracket, replaced the new one and put the connectors back on, screwed the bracket back on and that was it. Very easy fix for a female who does not do much of these sort of repairs but learning.
Washer machine would fill up with water and not spin and drain
Happened to slam the lid by mistake and the washer started spinning. Recognized the lid lock was working haphazzardly. Also, there was a burning type odor coming from the switch. So I lifted the lid top and disconnected the switch from the lid by unscrewing 2 screws and 4 wires. When I received the new switch, I reinstalled it with 2 screws and reconnected the 4 wires.
Drum making thumping noises, clothes getting caught behind drum.
I've always been a "do it yourselfer". If I can fix it, I save money. I took the dryer apart by lifting the top up like car hood. Then I removed the front panel. The front drum glide snapped into place easily where the other one had broken off. The felt strip that you sent was much shorter than the one on the dryer, so once I used the wire wheel to remove the old glue, I cut off the section of the felt that was bad and replaced it with the new felt. The turns much quieter and clothing doesnt get caught behind the drum anymore.
The part number was on the knob itself. I did a google search and found it at this site and ordered it. My initial surprise was how fast i received the part. I installed it in about 3 seconds and it's been fine ever since.
I will definitely use this site again. Easy part identification and FAST SHIPPING!
I opened the top of the dryer to gain access to the outside of the drum. Then I removed the screws holding the old drum veins in using the electric drill with the nut driver attachment. Then I positioned the new veins in place on the inside of the drum and replaced the screws from the outside of the drum to hold the veins in place. Then I replaced the top and was ready to go.
This is the third repair that I have done using parts from parts select. the other two repairs involved replacing electrical parts. Specifically thermostatic controls or swicthes. I am very happy with the parts and the diagrams provided on your web site without wich I would have had to replace my dryer a long time ago.
This unit is a stackable washer&dryer,so first pull unit away from wall atleast 4 foot. Unplug power cord,then take10 dagree front panel off then the control panel off and unplug the 5 connetors if your unit has that many,then lay panel asside. Take dryer door off,makes it easier when putting it all back together. Now take front panel off and the dryer lent tube,now just take the 3 center phillips head screws out and slide drum out. Pull upward on what they call the shaft which held drum on. Now these are the parts you should order. Belt,grounding ball clip,grounding ball,drum support bearing,bearing bracket,and most important part is the shaft. The shaft is ur insurance for the whole job. Use a good grease like white lithium grease and coat the shaft end and the drum support bearing. The grease will cut down on friction for a while,and re assemble the way you took apart. Reminder grounding ball goes behind drum support bearing not in front. Good luck and please vaccum.
tub won't drain& timer control won't go to correct setting
To replace the pump remove to lower screws on the front panel,remove panel ,pump is in the front section , remove two screws that attach pump to lower housing. To replace timer remove screws on the plate that the contrlos on mounted on. Once you have access to timer you must remove the nylon pin in the back of the timer that holds the dial to the timer base.You can not remove the knob without removing the pin
dryer was making terrible clunking noise when running
This is a stacker washer/dryer combination. Took off the back panel of the dryer, but found out the front needed to come off instead,to replace the blower wheel. This took more time than replacing the wheel. Was pretty easy to get to the wheel and replace. The center part had broken so replaced wheel and clamp. The push in fastner was broke, which held in the lint screen part. Was easy to install this. Dryer sounds as good as it did when it was new. It was very easy to find the correct part and shipping was overnight! Great service.
i removed the front panel, then removed the old pump by taking off the clamps and disconnected the wiring. The new pump had to be reversed before connecting, but it was so easy.
No heat/intermittent heat. Ignitor glowed but no gas flame.
White Westinghouse WDG547PB Dryer. Removed access panel (lower left front of dryer) by removing phillips head screw below access panel. Removed two phillips head screws holding bracket that holds coil in place. Removed coil, disconnected electrical connector. Connected electrical connector to new coil and set in place. Repeat for second coil. Reinstall bracket and access panel. Job complete. Dryer back in service with no problems.
1. Removed face of dryer (drum 'holder') 2. Disconnected door switch wires 3. Tore off existing felt
NOTE: The length of the felt that I recieved from PartSelect was incorrect (too short). Since the existing felt was worn and torn at the top, I replaced only a length that matched the length of the new felt.
4. Used a razor blade-type gasket remover/scraper to remove the exisitng glue 5. Applied new glue (which comes with the felt) onto the felt and let it set up
NOTE: In hindsite, I would apply the glue to the drum holder instead, as the glue otherwise soaks into the felt. If applied to the drum holder instead, the glue will spread out and provide more surface area for adherence.
6. Installed the new felt, starting at one end and working my way around to the other end, being careful not to stretch it 7. Trimmed the remainder of the existing felt (see first NOTE) 8. Scraped the drum holder below the pulled away ends of the exisitng felt 9. Applied glue to the existing felt, including the trrimmed ends so that the ends do not pull away from the ends of the new felt 10. Re-attached the existing felt 11. Let the glue set-up overnight 12. Reinstalled the face of the dryer, turning the drum so that the felt will not get pushed away 13. Reconnected the door switch wires 14. Turned dryer on, with lid still raised, to check for any drifting of the felt 15. Once assured that the felt would stay in place, put the dryer in service
NOTE: I replaced the felt becasue of the gap that opened due to compression of the felt. The gap, as well as a torn piece of the felt that entered the interior of the drum, was catching clothes and tearing them as they were rotated between the drum and the drum holder. The new felt eliminated this problem.