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Water Was Not Being Sent Up To Ice Maker
I removed a couple of screws from the old part, and inserted the new part. Replaced the screws and I was done. No problem. I'm an almost 60 year old woman, and fixed this myself. It was so easy.
At first I tried to insall the new gasket with the door still attached to the refrigerator. It was difficult to assure that the bottom of the gasket was properly installed at the bottom. As a result I removed the door from the refrigerator, finished installing the gasket and then put the door back on the refrigerator
Test the light socket first with a bulb that you know is good. If the light still does not come on, unplug the refrigerator, remove the switch by inserting a very small, thin, flathead screwdriver alongside it and pull the switch out slowly with your other hand. There are two wires there. Remove them gently with some needle nose pliers. If you want to test to see if the switch is defective, take a insulated jumper wire, and attach it between the two wires. Plug the refrigerator back in and see if the light comes on. If the light does come on, replace with a new switch by re-attaching the wires and placing it back in the hole firmly.
Frig area was at about 50 degrees and would not get cooler. Freezer was working great. Empty the freezer and remove the two screws that hold the back panel of the inside of the freezer on. Pull the panel out and you will see the fan that is mounted to the back of the panel. If the fan is not running, disconnect it (quick connector) and check to see if there is voltage coming to it from the connector (should be 120VAC between the two wires). If there is power, and the fan was not working, replace the fan.
Fan just snaps into the holder on the back panel and plugs into the quick connector. Make sure you clear any ice build-up in the hole between the freezer and the frig that the fans blows through. Put it back together and verify the fan runs.
Freezer seemed ok, though frosty, but the bottom section was not cold enough, and the compressor seemed to run constantly.
The lower compartment was hovering around 50 degrees. Logic told me that cold air was not being driven from the freezer to the lower compartment. At first, I found the passageway between freezer and lower compartment was blocked with frost/ice, which could have been the entire problem. But why was that ice accumulated there? After defrosting, the problem was only partly solved. A few how-to videos suggested that the defrost timer was a common problem, so I tried that, the part was about $11, with minimal improvement. So I concluded that the fan was not driving cold air from the freezer to the lower section. I tested the fan by removing the freezer back panel completely, wiring the fan to an old ordinary power cord, and plugging that in to a wall outlet. The fan would not start on its own, would only turn if I gave it a spin, and then was very weak - I could stop it with a finger without pain! When my new fan arrived, I again removed the back panel in the freezer and replaced the fan, just a few screws to remove, then swap the fan blade to the new fan motor. The process was simple and obvious. Now the lower section stays near 40 degrees, though I'm not convinced that's the only problem-there seems to be a lot of variation in the temperature. BTW, I had also confirmed the defrost heating element was functional by activating the defrost timer (see youtube), to eliminate that from the diagnosis.
first i removed the four screws that hold the shelve in place disconnected the wire replace both diffuser-air,reconnected the wire and replaced the screws
This was a simple job. Raised the flap in the back that houses the compressor, removed the wire that holds the relay, pulled out the old relay and pushed the new one on. Replaced wire holder and that was it. Plugged it frig and freezer is at zero and lower compartment at 35. As easy as brushing your teeth!
I located the part that was the culprit as it had buzzed very much before quitting. This is an easy removal as the part is in a two prong jack and just needs to be carefully removed with the new part inserted back in the jack provided. The refrigerator works fine now, but the run capacitor will still buzz on start up of the compressor. I do hope this is normal in this model? anyway it runs fine mow. Thank you.
the parts were exactly right and fit perfectly. they came quickly and arrived in great shape. I simply removed the broken pieces and replaced them with the new plastic frame to hold the crisper pans and the new pan.
My 4 year old grandson used the frig door as a swing.The bottom hinge cracked, then the door wouldn't seal. I propped the door up with some books, removed the broken hinge (2 bolts) and replaced with the new part. Simple fix on the door, only time will fix the 4 year old!
I ordered the Door Shelf Bin from PartSelect.com on Friday and received it on Saturday!! I was shocked, but thrilled. The easy to use diagram helped me to pick the right part and I easily replaced the broken one. I have already started to recommend PartSelect.com I was so thrilled with their service!