FEFL68GMA Frigidaire Range - Instructions

From learning the hard way on a previous repair, I opened the circuit breaker for the oven at the circuit box (arc welders use 220 volts also). Then using a nut driver, I removed the two retaining screws and pulled the bake element from the oven (about 3"). Then I removed the spade connectors on both ends of the element and reconnected them to the new element. Then I gently pushed the element back into the rear wall of the oven and replaced the retaining screws. This procedure is extreamly easy and very straight forward, anyone could accomplish this task.

I removed the screws holding the element in place, pulled the element out, and one of the leads came off and dropped into the oven. I had to take the back of the stove off and feed the lead back through the hole into the oven. If I had been careful to keep the leads from dropping out of the hole, the whole repair would have taken only a few minutes. But even so, it was quite easy.

REMEMBER TO UNPLUG YOUR APPLIANCE FIRST!

killed the 50 amp power. removed 3 screws from above oven door slid out cook top, dropped brace holding 2 front burners. The connector corroded off had to look for a high heat connector to connect to the element, after that just screwed everything back together.

Turned off electric,removed rear panel and replaced part.oven is now operating good as new.

TURN BREAKER TO RANGE OFF! Move range out to access rear of the unit. Remove 6 screws to gain access to rear of controls panel. Pull knob off switch. Remove 2 pan head Phillips screws to take switch out. Lugs not in matching pattern but are clearly labled, swap wires one at a time. Reverse the disassembly steps and push the range back in place. DONE

Unplug the unit or turn off power at the electrical panel!!!! I removed the 2 screws that hold the top surface of the stove down. On my range, these are located in the front, under the the top surface. You have to open the oven door to remove them. I propped the top up with a couple of 10 inch pieces of 1 x 2 then removed the screws on each end of the bracket that holds the elements in place. I used a 1/4 inch nut driver for these. With needle nose pliers, I removed the 3 retaining clips from the bracket and removed them from the element with a screwdriver and transferred them to the new heating element. The holes around the outside of the element are numbered so it's easy to know where they go. Laying the new element next to the old one, I moved each paddle-type electrical connection one at a time to the corresponding place on the new one. Put the retaining clips back in the slots. Screw the mounting bracket back in. Put the top down and secure it with screws. Very easy repair.

Remove 4 screws on back panel. Unclip wire connector and remove probe and install new probe.

shut off power to stove. Opened the oven door, removed the racks. removed 2 screws holding the element in place. gently pulled element out to expose connections. removed connections. discard old element. reattach connections to new element and reinstall. very simple.

All of a sudden, one element in our glasstop range would not light and heat up. My wife and I were not sure what to do. Looked it up on the internet, found that you can do it yourself as others desribed the process of accessing the elements below. We decided to do that. It takes two people as one is holding up the glass because it opens like a car hood. While we diagnosed it was not a wiring issue (found a burnt wire, rewired the burnt wires (after mending the non burnt portions) to another element. The element that was not working before still did not turn on. Decided to purchase an element. While many online places sell elements, PartSelect actually allowed searching by brand with exploded views of the range to select the exact parts. This lessened the worry of purchasing a wrong element. When the part came (almost one day later), the repair was less than five minutes. Thank you PartSelect. I feel I saved a lot of money and aggravation.

i first replaced element after old smoked & quit. replaced switch but i noticed when i started to replace the wires one at a time something didn't seem right. after checking the #s on the old one, they didn't match up with the new one.luckily i had the stove diagram from a packet on the back of the stove. i traced each wire according to the diagram and everything worked out fine. i'm just glad i didn't replace each wire to wire.the #'s were on the switch where each wire went which was different than the org. even though they looked the same.

move the range out and unplug power supply, removing the back cover allows access to the probe, this can be done with screw driver or nut driver, loosen clamp that holds power cord in place and move backing out of the way, be careful sheet metal can be sharp, locate the probe unplug the connector and remove screw holding probe, pull old probe out install new probe, fasten down and plug in connector. attach backing and tighten clamp on power cord, plug in to power supply, turn on oven and give it several minutes for probe to work, it took only 20 minutes to replace the bad probe and the oven works like new hop this helps

The old element burnt a hole in itself and just glowed in an area about the size of a quarter. I unplugged the oven, removed the two screws that held the element and removed it. I plugged the oven back in so we could use the top burners. When I went to install the new element I did not unplug the oven as the controls were off. I did not know the element was hot from the outlet (by design) so when I tried to attach the new element sparks flew and it welded itself to the wire so I jerked it looose. I then unplugged the oven, replaced a blown fuse, and installed the element.

I went all the way around the unit and removed screws holding top of unit in place. Removed knobs holding front panel in place. Remove control panel. top should come off. Remove screws attaching element top and metal frame. Undo bracket and remove element. Disconnect wires. Remember where they were attached.
Replace element and reverse steps.

I first turned the power supply off to my oven. Then I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the ends. After that I connected the new element to the wires on my oven and secured the element with the two screws and turned the power back on. I pushed the oven-on button and now I'm back in business.

Disconnected power. Removed hold down fasteners for stove top. Fortunately, I did not flue down or use the double back tape to secure stovetop to counter. If this adhesive were used, it is possible I would have had great difficulty in removing range. I did not disconnect the wiring, but turned the range top over to access the cover. I removed the cover and easily removed the failed burner and installed the new ones. I had to pull 4 wires from the terminal strip and reattach them. The hold down strap for the burner was reinstalled. Range top turned back over and fastened down. Back in service.