FEC6X6XACC Frigidaire Cooktop - Instructions

The parts came quickly. I removed old drip pans and snapped the new ones into place. A child could do this. Now my cooktop looks new and I am not ashamed for anyone to see it.

Pull out the old one. Plug in the new one and your good to go.

Reviewed the online repair video a few times then got started. Although only two were bad, I replaced all four terminal blocks. I removed the range top instead of using the built in kick stands. this left me much more room to work and I was able to clean the top of the range really well before getting started. Wires for the back terminals where short and a little difficult to use after cutting off the old terminal blocks. The terminal block mounting option for my style range included with the repair kit would not allow me to utilize the screw for the third wire on the left rear burner. I used a drill to carefully widen the hole in the mount to make the original screw fit as there are no screws included with the kit. This added the extra time to complete the repair. Over all the repair was simple to complete but having to modify the terminal block mount was dissapointing considering the web site selected parts for my specific model number. Still a bargain compared to what a service call or new purchase costs. I will be reparing my ranges from now on.

I previously replaced terminal blocks and elements so the infinite switch was the last stop before new purchase. I reviewed the online repair video. Unplugged the range and removed the three screws from the rear of the control panel. I Removed the knobs then removed two screws to release the front plate behind the knobs. I removed the two screws securing switch #1 and compaired to the new parts before removing wires. Wire locations were labled the same but in different sequence. I located the knob adapter for my knobs and set them asside. At first I thought the rod coming out of the new switch was too long and then figured out that the indentions allong the rod were to be broken off to the correct length. ( re-reading the included instructions was nearly useless - - not in plain language ) I used a pair of vice-grips clamped just below the length of rod I wanted to break off and it snapped off easily and cleanly for the most part. ( A word to the wise, this is some really soft metal at the breaks along the rod. I attempted a second break on one switch after mounting in the control panel and the thing broke off at the short end - - scary ) luckily I was still able to use it with my knobs and adapters. I relocated the switch wires to the new switch one at a time matching label to label ( L1, L2, H1, H2, P) then mounted the new switch into the control panel. I re-assembled the range and it is heating better than ever. Well worth the effort and minimal expense compared to a service call or replacement range.

Looked at the instructions and cut the wires, put the new wires in the block, attached the block to the range, put the new wires to the range wires using the wire nuts. I plugged the element into the block turned on the power, tried the element and it worked. It was really a easy repair.

Just put the drip plates in stovetop and worked perfectly

First I want to thank Part Select for having the video online or I would not have attempted the repair. Also I saved over $75 on the parts!!!!!! It would have cost me $105 for parts and $125 for service tech to replace the burned off terminal blocks with new ones. Parts cost me $35 with shippiing, I did the repair saving me $195 !!!!!!!!! I replaced the parts as describied in the video and all is well. By the way, I got the parts in less than 24hours after ordering, cheaper than driving 30 miles to pick up overpriced parts !!!!

Pulled old out put new in.

Very easy to remove the old drip bowl and replace with new ones.

they were for my 90 year old mom. she dropped them in by herself, perfect fit....thanks very much

The hardest part of the job was cleaning under the old rings. Cook top looks new again!

Very simply following the online video instructions.

unplugged the elements, removed drip pans, replaced with new drip pans. plugged back in elements. took no skills or effort. the parts were ordered on-line one afternoon and were on my doorstep the next morning. I had been unable to find drip pans that fit my stove and was thrilled that they fit and came so quickly and were reasonably priced.

purchased correct part from PartSelect and it fit like a glove!

The unit is 29 years old. With the 250V breaker off, I removed knobs burners, pans. Removed 4 short and 4 very short screws under knobs. Remove the four tiny pointed screws under the burners to free the top. Propped the top up at an angle with lighting underneath. All 4 switches are now free from control panel. Replaced defective switches while keeping detailed labels on all wires while they are free. Replacement switches had same labels on them as the old ones (H1 H2 L1 L2 P) so wiring was easy. Some connectors needed to be crimped a little tighter. The old switches had low and high amp ranges depending on whether they were for small or large burners while the replacements handled either. Cleaned whole unit. The trickiest part was getting the height of the replacement dial posts right. For one dial the right plastic adapter sleeve went shallowly into the dial while for another the same style adapter penetrated more deeply. Note the adapters have a slot along their shaft that allows them to close slightly in circumference. It is easily possible to crimp down the metal dial posts too far. This did not happen but for one dial I had to hack saw the adapter shorter. Reassembling the control panel is two steps where the short screw attaches the switch to the stovetop and the longer screw attached the switch to the control panel and stovetop. I used the awl for aligning the screw holes. Note, angling the stovetop too far (like the hood of a car) can pull wires off the switches. I think the lens acts to hold the lamp in place but since the lens arrived later, I taped the lamp in place and popped the lens into the assembled unit later. The repair worked well. Two switches cost about 75$