FDB635RFS3 Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

Unplugged the dishwasher. Closed and disconnected the water supply. Removed two screws that attached the dishwasher to the countertop. Pulled the dishwasher out from underneath the countertop. Laid the dishwasher on its side to access the bottom. The high limit thermostat had shorted out and showed signs of electrical burn. I removed the high limit thermostat by unscrewing the single screw that holds it in place. I then pulled the two electrical terminals off the high limit thermostat . One terminal (i.e. small electrical plug connecting electrical wire to high limit thermostat) was burned badly. I cut it off the wire and attached a generic terminal bought at local hardware store (six for $3). The other terminal was fine. I plugged the new high limit thermostat in and attached it with the single screw to the dish washer. Put the dishwasher back in place. Test ran dish washer and dishes came out shiny, clean and dry. Done.

The strip comes right out when you pull, there is a space to grip it on the left and pull it out. The notch goes on the right side when you put it back in; it only goes in one way. I didn't get it all the way in the first time and closed the door; the gasket came right out. A clear sign that I had done something wrong! So I put it in again, this time pushing it as far as it would go. It went all the way in and stayed. It doesn't click or anything, but you can kind of feel when the notches all connect. Also, it doesn't slide right out again.... very easy!

First, I had to remove a small metal paper clip that somehow ended up in the bottom of the dishwasher, which jammed the spray arm. The spray arm wasn't able to spin around, so it melted onto the heater. I removed the spray arm, and replaced it with the new one.

First I just rolled out the lower rack assembly, and rolled the new one in. Then I moved onto the upper rack. I started by sliding the off the rail cap lock at the end of the rack. The entire cap does not come off, just the bottom slotted piece. This is done by simply edging out the bottom of the cap, toward the front of the dishwasher, until the bottom slides out of the slot, and lifts out of the way. Then the upper rack was released to roll freely out of the support rail. The next step was to pry off the top of the water diverter. Next was to unscrew the wand assembly from the water diverter that is attached to the upper rack assembly. There are no water lines attached to this, it just directs the jetted water from the top of the dishwasher. Then simply pop the mount from the upper rack. And reassemble the way it came off. This was a simple fix to make the dishwasher like new inside again. The racks purchased from Parts Select fit perfectly with no modifications or trouble. This operation took less than ten minutes. Anyone should be able to handle this operation. If you are afraid to disassemble the upper rack, take a few digital pictures to refer to, and delete them later. This is a tip that has been priceless to me in the past on other projects. Thank you Parts Select.

Thought the problem was a faulty door gasket (there was a gap in the middle of it) so I ordered new(new one had a gap also) replaced it anyway - maybe it was worn out? Still leaked! Had to sit and stare at it and cycle it through. finally realized the spray arm had a hole in the end that was spraying directly into the gap in the door gasket. Hot glued the hole and it stopped so I bought a new spray arm - no leaky!

It took less than a minute to remove the old bottom door gasket - it pulls right out. You wouldn't think the part looks the way it does (a 1.5 inch wide plastic strip that runs the length of the door with rubber gaskets on both ends) but have faith. Trust the diagram/picture - it is the correct part and will fix the leak. The new gasket arrived within a couple days of ordering and was simple to install - no tools. It slides into place in less than a minute and is held in by friction. Problem solved and no more leaks. For under $12 (parts and shipping) I had my dishwasher fixed. A service call by itself would have run $75 - just for someone to show up at the house, and then probably another $50 for parts and labor to install. My wife made the comment "Even I could have fixed that". A very simple and easy repair - you can do it!!!

This was the second part of repair. Left side was constantly falling out of the slide. I replaced the same items as above minus the gasket and screw kit. Once done, the right side was sloppy so I orders part for that side plus gasket which slid right in.
1. Removed stops on front end of Upper Dishrack Slide on both sides.
2. Removed Upper Dishrack
3. Remove Roller and Axle/clip (4 each)
4. Push Roller onto Axle on all 4 kits
5. Install all 4 roller kits on Upper Dishrack
6. Remove stops from back end of Upper Dishrack Slides.
7. Remove both Slides
8. Remove 8 each Tub Wheels.
9. Using old or new Screws and Washers, install new Tub Wheels.
10. Install both Upper Dishrack Slides ensuring that small holes are toward the back.
11. Install stops on the back end of Slides.
12 Install Upper Dishrackinto slides
13. Install front stops on slide
14. Pulled out Gasket
15. Install replaced Gasket

Unplugged dishwasher, pulled it out. Unclamped hose and unscrewed water source to inlet valve, removed wiring harness, unscrewed bracket and reinstalled new valve. Now have a functioning dishwasher.

It was easy to replace the latch. 4 screws to take the cover off... two star screws for the latch assy. and 4 wires. NOTE: be sure to kill the power to the washer

removed the remnants of the old wheels and popped the new ones on....simple

Got to say, I was pretty amazed that I received my order the following day! You guys are wonderful!

This was right before T'Giving. Ordered the part Wed, and it arrived on Sat morning. I had read the other comments, so thanks to the person who said to make sure you snap the new one in place and check for a snug fit, the replacement was in and working in no time at all.

Alighned the bracket and pushed in.

The Spray arm and the support had come off during operation and subsequently melted on the heating element. This was our fault, as a knife had slipped through the lower dish-rack and acted as a ramp to launch the spray arm as it came around. The support was a simple 1/4 turn counter-clockwise until it clicked into place, drop the strainer basket into position around the support, them push the spray arm into place until the catches snap over the retaining ring molded into the support. All told, about 10 minutes, max.

Be aware that there is a Child Lock Control on this dishwasher. To unlock the controls, press the POWER DRY OFF/NO HEAT DRY pad for 5 seconds until the CONTROLS light goes out.
If that doesn't work then read on.
I noticed the plastic handle was very loose in its opening. So I removed the screws along the interior edge of the door to expose the Door Latch Assembly. (Be careful. The two lowest screws- closest to the hinges- hold the metal door trim panel in place after sliding the panel over two clips near the screws. If you don't hold the door panel it may fall and get scratched. Put a bath towel or rug on the floor to avoid scratching it.)
After removing the phillips head screws, (and keeping track of the different size lengths in each position) I found the plastic handle broken at its fulcrum with the loose parts rattling around the inside of the door. The microswitches that tell the control panel the door is closed were not being pressed when the door closed because the broken handle was loose. I orderd the part I needed, got it in 5 days and reopened the door. The Door Latch Assembly is held in place with two medium size TORX head screws. Just remove each of the 4 electrical connectors one at a time from the old door latch assembly (that includes a new plastic handle) and attach to the new switch in the same order you remove them. After reassembling, I had the machine running in just a few minutes.

1. Bottom door gasket removed very easy by grabbing left corning and pulling out. Starting with notch on right side, slide the hard plastic side up at a slight angle to catch the slot the gasket will seat in. Slowly moving toward the left, push gasket into seated position. Notch in gasket will make sure it is in correct position. Push gasket all the way in so that it is flush with bottom edge of door. Watch when first sliding gasket in, it has to g at a slight up angle or it will fall into an empty space.
2. Remove Tub gasket by gripping one side and pulling out. Replace in same fashion making sure the angled wedge of gasket is first part that lays flat in slot. Working from one side to the other, make sure the gasket seats completely. Trim excess if necessary.