FDB1100RHQ2A Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

Unplugged the dishwasher. Closed and disconnected the water supply. Removed two screws that attached the dishwasher to the countertop. Pulled the dishwasher out from underneath the countertop. Laid the dishwasher on its side to access the bottom. The high limit thermostat had shorted out and showed signs of electrical burn. I removed the high limit thermostat by unscrewing the single screw that holds it in place. I then pulled the two electrical terminals off the high limit thermostat . One terminal (i.e. small electrical plug connecting electrical wire to high limit thermostat) was burned badly. I cut it off the wire and attached a generic terminal bought at local hardware store (six for $3). The other terminal was fine. I plugged the new high limit thermostat in and attached it with the single screw to the dish washer. Put the dishwasher back in place. Test ran dish washer and dishes came out shiny, clean and dry. Done.

The strip comes right out when you pull, there is a space to grip it on the left and pull it out. The notch goes on the right side when you put it back in; it only goes in one way. I didn't get it all the way in the first time and closed the door; the gasket came right out. A clear sign that I had done something wrong! So I put it in again, this time pushing it as far as it would go. It went all the way in and stayed. It doesn't click or anything, but you can kind of feel when the notches all connect. Also, it doesn't slide right out again.... very easy!

First, I had to remove a small metal paper clip that somehow ended up in the bottom of the dishwasher, which jammed the spray arm. The spray arm wasn't able to spin around, so it melted onto the heater. I removed the spray arm, and replaced it with the new one.

The "Wash" light on my dishwasher began blinking continuously. I tried to reset it by turning off the power for 5 minutes. No change. I tried the "test" sequence per the dishwasher service booklet. No luck. Knowing it was either the control panel (expensive) or the door latch assembly (cheap), I first tested the door latch. With a multi-meter, I was able to determine that the door latch assembly was not functional. This gave the dishwasher a false signal that the door was always open.
To change door latch assembly:
1: Open dishwasher door and remove all the screws holding the front door faceplate on.
2: Remove the front door faceplate as well as the control panel.
3: Locate and remove the (2) torx screws holding the door latch assembly on.
4: Take note of the placement of the four electrical connectors on the old latch assembly. ( I simply removed them one by one from the old assembly and re-connected with the new one to eliminate confusion)
5. Once electrical connectors are completed, simply reverse the process.

Done! Very happy wife afterwards!

All I had to do was replace the spring and retainer on the side of the dishwasher which amounted to pulling it out far enough to reach the eyelet that the hook went into and then stretching it to the retainer attached on the other end. I really like partselect, I have done some things in the past and they are very helpful on the site and on the phone and I would recommend them to anyone and I would not normally do that unless it has been an excellent experience.

See posting under O rings. Get schematic Motor & Pump pg. 8 from pub # 5995487674. Steps: 1) run cycle so most water is pumped out of dishwasher 2) remove front cover to reduce weight of door; 3) disconnect electric plug, hot water hose [NOTE: be prepared for some water from hose], and waste tube all usually found under sink area; 4) remove 2 screws at top of front panel; 5) lower leveling feet to allow best clearance; 6) put towels under front feet to protect floor and slide unit out from under counter; 7) place heavy blanket next to unit to protect floor and tip unit over on its side; 8) disconnect electric plug from motor and remove metal spring clip holding motor (2 torx screws) and pull clip off motor; 9)gently rock motor while lifting to remove from unit [NOTE position of motor for reassembly]; 10) put thin coat of silicon on O rings and place on new motor [look at old motor to make sure O rings are in proper slots; 11) line up motor and gently push new motor back into position; 12) reverse disassemble steps above. 13) run dishwasher through fastest cycle to check for leaks.

First I just rolled out the lower rack assembly, and rolled the new one in. Then I moved onto the upper rack. I started by sliding the off the rail cap lock at the end of the rack. The entire cap does not come off, just the bottom slotted piece. This is done by simply edging out the bottom of the cap, toward the front of the dishwasher, until the bottom slides out of the slot, and lifts out of the way. Then the upper rack was released to roll freely out of the support rail. The next step was to pry off the top of the water diverter. Next was to unscrew the wand assembly from the water diverter that is attached to the upper rack assembly. There are no water lines attached to this, it just directs the jetted water from the top of the dishwasher. Then simply pop the mount from the upper rack. And reassemble the way it came off. This was a simple fix to make the dishwasher like new inside again. The racks purchased from Parts Select fit perfectly with no modifications or trouble. This operation took less than ten minutes. Anyone should be able to handle this operation. If you are afraid to disassemble the upper rack, take a few digital pictures to refer to, and delete them later. This is a tip that has been priceless to me in the past on other projects. Thank you Parts Select.

Thought the problem was a faulty door gasket (there was a gap in the middle of it) so I ordered new(new one had a gap also) replaced it anyway - maybe it was worn out? Still leaked! Had to sit and stare at it and cycle it through. finally realized the spray arm had a hole in the end that was spraying directly into the gap in the door gasket. Hot glued the hole and it stopped so I bought a new spray arm - no leaky!

It took less than a minute to remove the old bottom door gasket - it pulls right out. You wouldn't think the part looks the way it does (a 1.5 inch wide plastic strip that runs the length of the door with rubber gaskets on both ends) but have faith. Trust the diagram/picture - it is the correct part and will fix the leak. The new gasket arrived within a couple days of ordering and was simple to install - no tools. It slides into place in less than a minute and is held in by friction. Problem solved and no more leaks. For under $12 (parts and shipping) I had my dishwasher fixed. A service call by itself would have run $75 - just for someone to show up at the house, and then probably another $50 for parts and labor to install. My wife made the comment "Even I could have fixed that". A very simple and easy repair - you can do it!!!

Unplugged dishwasher, pulled it out. Unclamped hose and unscrewed water source to inlet valve, removed wiring harness, unscrewed bracket and reinstalled new valve. Now have a functioning dishwasher.

My friend bought a used dishwasher at a garage sale, the previous owner had thrown away the drain hose because it was "nasty" they said....remember it could have been cleaned. When I went to install it, I removed the old washer, and discovered that the old hose would not fit on the replacement dishwasher. I went to the local repair shop, armed with the model and serial #'s. they searched and searched their books and could not find the hose part number. they said "good luck" when I left...I went home and looked up the model on your web site, ordered the hose, and in 3 days had the dishwasher installed and running in about 30 minutes...thanks for prompt shipping.. I couldn't believe it arrived so soon...Mowerman

removed the remnants of the old wheels and popped the new ones on....simple

Got to say, I was pretty amazed that I received my order the following day! You guys are wonderful!

This was right before T'Giving. Ordered the part Wed, and it arrived on Sat morning. I had read the other comments, so thanks to the person who said to make sure you snap the new one in place and check for a snug fit, the replacement was in and working in no time at all.

Alighned the bracket and pushed in.

One Roller detatched and hit the heat coil and melted. Both of the Spring Linkages borke. It's was quite obvious they were made not to last long. My Husband did the repairs. Thank you for asking.