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bakeing element caught fire.
First I turned off power to the range at the fuse box (very important-The last time I didn't do this and ended up paying a repairman $150.00 to replace the damaged connectors). I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I then connected the new element, pushed the element back in and replaced the screws. Turned the power back on and tested the element. The whole job took about 30 minutes because I had trouble disconnecting the old element. I used the flat end of the scrapper to push against the connector while I pulled the element out. Normally it would take only about 15 minutes.
(Note: I found it easier to disconnect the wires from the element by removing the rear cover. Fumbling around inside the oven was getting me nowhere.)
Removed rear cover. Disconnected old element. Unscrewed the old element from inside the oven, removed, and installed the new element. Screwed the new element in place. Reconnected wires in back, installed the back cover. Connected power. Tested. Good as new.
Removed the two screws that held the element in place and then pulled off the element from the connectors. Slipped the new connectors on. Tested the oven - Baked some blackberry cobbler!
Large burner was surging indicating infinite switch failed
Changing out the switch was easy. Paid attention to wire connections to avoid mixup. Removal and installation of the switch was easy. It's the back panels that gave me the most challenge. Used screwdrivers and needle nose pliers to do repair. Having a second set of hands for the two part back panel reinstall was most helpful, but can be accomplished by 1 person. Burner works great. This is a easy DIY fix.
I followed the instructions as provided. When I finished I noticed the switch was 1/4 turn out from the off position mark on the stove. So I pulled the stove back out and took the back panel off again pulled the knobs back off took out the screws that held the switches in place and rotated the switch 1/4 turn counter clockwise. Then I replaced all the screws and knobs . Then I replaced the panel and shoved the stove back in place. One of the burners was an eight inch and the switch doesn't work as well as it could. However there was not a direct replacement for the eight inch burner.
40+ year old oven. . . worn out, obsolete door hinges. . .
Removed old hinges, fabricated new mounting plates from 16ga steel plate. . . Cut new hinges to fit in available space. . . Drilled and tapped new mounting holes and adjustment tracks. . . Shortened existing springs to fit new configuration. Installed new hinges.
removed 4 screws lifted off the face with switches replaced the bad switch and put the face plate back on. if you have any concerns just watch the video , part select has posted its great
I had to pull out the oven and balance the oven on two patio tables. Remove the back of the oven. Pull out the light assembly which was burnt. I was unable to remove the casing around the light, so I destroyed it with a pliers. Reinstalling the new light and assembly was easy. What made this job difficult, I could not remove the light assembly from the front of the oven and had to go in from the back.
Unplug the 220 cord..remove rear metal back ( 7-8 Ph/screws)... disconnect the red & yellow connectors from the back of the lower element. Remove-the-lift-off Oven door. Remove the two Ph/screws (one on either end of the element) At the very rear of the oven. Install the new element and reverse the about to reassemble.
Removed the failed bake element per the video linked in the Partselect email. Unlike the video on YouTube the PartSelect video shows that the bake element can easily be replaced through the oven door and it is not necessary to slide the range out and remove a rear panel.
