FARG1011MW0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

Unplugged the electricity, turned off the gas, then pop open the top of the dryer. Removed the two screws and pulled the front of the dryer off. Removed the two screws that locked down the two m series ignition coils. Put it back together and all things worked great.

Very easy fix on this system as described in other reviews. Simply unplug, lift top, remove two retaining screws on the dryer face, remove face from front of drum. Locate both coils at the lower left corner of the gas valve assembly.

My dryer was heating up very briefly blowing hot air initially then cool. I have a stacking washer/dryer set (2002). I initially turned off the gas valve at the wall, ran the dry for several minutes to clear the gas line, then unplugged the power. I was then able to pop the top using a flathead screw driver, securely prop it open, unhook the wiring harness to the front panel, unscrew the two front panel screws, and remove the entire front without having to unstack the units. From there, you remove the two screws holding the bracket over the coils (2 of them), remove the electrical connectors attached to both coils and replaced them with the new ones. I then replaced all brackets, screws, and such (you'll need to lift the drum when putting the front back on and make sure it is lined up), plugged it back into power and turned on the gas to test the unit which worked perfectly. The 62% of the time seems to be an accurate figure as nothing else had to be done to the unit. Pretty easy stuff...good luck.

After reading other peoples problems i decided it must be the coils after looking at the picture of the part I looked at the dryer to find were the part was. it was right in front behind the inspection cover. so i order the part. it came very fast.these are not the first parts i have purchased from Partselect.the web site is newer now and i am glad because reading other peoples problems help me decide what was wrong with mine.PS Always clean every thing inside the dryer!! 15-20 min job one screw driver! (19 year old unit works fine)thanks to Partselect!!!

Pried the lid up and flipped it back then disconnected the front panel wiring harness and then popped the front panel loose at the top and dropped it down. Disconnected the ignition coils, removed the coil retainer bracket and replaced the coils. Reassembled it in reverse order, performed functional test. Success!

Flame Sensor didn't fix it but, it was easy to replace. Unplug electric. Lift up the top and remove wires from switch and light switch. Remove screws that hold on the front and remove front panel by lifting up and out. Sensor is on the left side of the burner, held on with just one screw. EASY!

I replaced the Control Thermistor (part # PS1149368) by removing the two screws on the bottom of the lower panel below the door. You will see the Control Thermistor just below and to the left of the discharge chute. Remove the two screws holding the Control Thermistor in place. Disconnect the two wire and reconnect to new Control Thermistor. Replace screws in reverse order of above.

Took the coils off and put the new one on thats all

The new latch easily snapped it into place.

Everything I needed to know was already on your website. Prying off the top of the dryer (with a big screwdriver under the front of the top) was the hardest thing, since I was afraid I would break something. Only then can the front be removed (taking out just 2 phillips screws). The rest is easy.

put door catch in hole

Never knew I was handy, but I did it! I was reluctant to spend a couple $100 on a repair visit, so found this site and bought the coils I needed for only $26+tax. It's pretty easy. I just lifted up the top of the dryer with a screw driver, should snap open. Then unscrewed the front panel with two screws from the inside. Then located the old coils on the bottom left. The bracket that holds them is a little difficult to remove as you need to have a small philips screw driver to get the back one. But once I got that off, just unplugged the old ones and put the bracket back, then the panels and it WORKED. The only problem I have is that I didn't take the door switch off properly and now the dryer doesn't stop spinning if I open the door and want to check the clothes. So I may have to get someone in eventually.

pushed screwdriver into the two clips between the top and front to release the connection. took off front. at the bottom front left side, took out screws to access parts that needed to be replaced. put everything back together. dryer works like new. easy.

When I direct the dryer exhaust into the room during the winter there is an external lint filter in the ducting. For some reason,enough lint got by the dryers filter and over a few cycles clogged the exhaust. I correctly assumed that the dryer overheated and some thermal limiter had opened up. The manual had exploded views and I located the limiter. Getting to it was another issue. The manual gave nbo instructions on getting to the limiter, but I had installed a propane conversion kit when I first got the dryer. It was necessary to remove the top, control panel, and front panel/door assembly. Disconnecting the gas line,some cable connectors, and a few screws allowed the removale of the burner assembly, then removal of the metal tube that surrounded the burner assembly and held a number of sensors, including the thermal limit, which, as expected, showed an open circuit. The replacement part was ordered and checked out as a closed circuit, which it should. Reassembly was the reverse. A little difficult to work in the cramped lower corner of the dryer. I'm 82 years old now but machines cannot beat me!!

Part Select got me the right parts in the agreed time--good job. Shut off the power or unplug the dryer which ever is easiest. The toughest part of doing this job was figuring out how the lid came off the dryer, if you have a jack knife or a putty knife you push it in between the top of the dryer and the body about an inch below the dryer top and about six inch from both sides of the dryer front you will hit a latch that releases the top--slip a screw driver into the opening and do the other side. The top can be removed or you can hold it open with a stick. There are two screws that you need to locate they are on the inside of the dryer front about 9" from the top one on each side they are all that hold the front on the body so remove them but carefully not to drop them inside the dryer. On my dryer there were two screw inside the dryer door that held the filter body onto the front that had to be removed too. Then push the screw driver between the front and the body of the dryer like the top and it will pop open. There are some wires going to the front from the body they can be unplug just follow the wires to the connection point. On mine, I squeezed the sides of the connector and the wires pulled apart. Now you can move the front aside. At the lower right in the body you find the valve and heater burner. On top of the valve there are two sets of wires coming off the valve. Disconnect the wires--one set is for a three wire connection the other for two wire connection. Your parts have a two wire coil and a three wire coil. The coils are freed by unscrewing the metal cover that holds them down remove the two screws and that cover then remove the old coil off the valve then replace the new coil with the part that is the same. Three pin coil with three pin coil positioning in the same way as the old coil, then do the other one. Reattached the metal cover with the screws and put it all back together in reverse order. The dryer chamber--the inside of the dryer rests on the front so when you put them together you may have to lift the chamber up to met the face a little (1/4"). Good luck.