Oven took too long to light, then it didn't light at all
1: Remove oven door. 2: Remove bottom shield, slide in. 3: Remove flame deflector four (4) screws, nut driver. 4: Remove igniter, two (2) screws, nut driver. 5: Remove lower drawer, slide in. 6: Remove wire shield, two (2) screws, nut driver. 7: Disconnect two (2) wire nuts, hands 8: Remove old igniter, hands 9: Install new part in reverse order...
I should have ordered it earlier. It was so easy to install. At first, the oven took 1 minute to light, then, a bit longer, finally around 20 minutes, I told my husband that he needs to get it fixed. So, finally when it wouldn't light at all... I ordered the part and had him install it. It took less than 15 minutes, listening to him the whole time. Now it's wonderful, like a new oven again. Lights up like it should.
The oven took too long to ignite (3-5 minutes), or didn't ignite at all. Same description as others on this site.
Turned off the breaker to the oven. Took out the racks and oven floor. Took out the steel deflector that sits on top of the oven burner itself (one bolt/washer). Removed the two bolts holding the igniter. Pulled the old igniter around the other side of the burner to be able to better access the wires. There was a woven sleeve around the ends of the wires, pulled those down the wire to expose the connection. There was an inline connector about 2-3 inches from the igniter, and normal wire after that. I cut the wires where that connection was made and stripped 3/8 inch off the cut wires. Then I cut the wires of the new igniter to the same length as what remained on the old igniter, stripped 3/8 inch off of those, paired them up and used the ceramic wire nuts that came with the new part to make the new connections. Put it all back together, and fired it up. It works wonderfully!
It was amazingly easy! I am a woman who was a little afraid to deal with wires. But it was just so super easy! And, I saved a bundle by doing it myself! Here's how I did it: (1) UNPLUGGED OVEN FROM WALL!!! (2) Remove floor of oven (1 screw) (3) Remove large metal strip underneath oven floor (2 screws) (4) Removed oven igniter (2 screws) (5) Marked top wire of old igniter before cutting (6) Cut both wires close to old igniter (7) Removed a little of the covering of the old wires to expose bare wire (8) Matched up old top wire with new top wire & twisted both old wires to the new wires (9) Replaced all screws and oven parts
Step one - Diagnose. Used a clamp-on ammeter around the igniter lead to check if 3.6 amps or greater were present during ignition. Only about 2.5 amps were measured, indicating that the igniter was bad.
Step two - Ordered the part.
Installation - Removed the racks and bottom oven compartment cover plates, exposing the igniter/burner assembly. Removed the bottom drawer, cut the wires of the existing igniter (leaving plenty of wire left for the new one). Removed the igniter/burner assembly through the oven compartment. Removed the old igniter from the burner, installed the new one. Re-seated the igniter/burner assembly, routing the wires appropriately. Stripped the existing leads (cut in previous step), spliced the new leads in, soldered the connection (soldering is optional). Taped up the splices with electrician's tape. Turned on the oven to verify that the new igniter glowed and the burner lit. Turned off the oven and waited for the burner to cool. Replaced the bottom cover plates and rack.
Unplug power, remove draw, marked and cut wires, unscrewed and removed old igniter, replaced and screwed new igniter into position, reconnected wires with supplied porcelin wire nuts, replace draw, plug in and tried...working great.
Oven progessively taking longer and longer to preheat
Disconnect appliance from electricity source! Removed oven grates and the solid oven floor by removing the two screws and lifting up. Removed the piece of metal covering the oven igniter. Unscrewed oven igniter, snipped the wires close to the old igniter (read some of the better descriptions on how to do this). Reconnected new wires to the existing ones and used the ceramic wire covers that came with the new igniter and pushed the wires back through the opening in the rear of the oven. Screwed the new igniter in place. We actually had to unscrew the little metal box on the back of the oven to get to the wires which was easier to work there with connecting the wires. It was a little difficult reaching into the stove since we didn't remove the oven door.
Removed the one remaining drawer guide and stared at it for 10 minutes trying to understand where it came from and how it worked. Looked it up on partselect.com. While there was no part number, the detailed photo on your web site was enought to assure me that you had the correct part. Ordered them in a few moments and three days later I had the parts. The hardest part of the job was trying to understand how to install the widgets. After 20 minutes to crawling around in the stove's inards, I finally got the "aha" and the drawer on this antique stove was finished. Thanks! Couldn't have done it without you.
I removed the broiler burner assembly held in by 5 screws across the inside top of the oven, as I removed the assembly the igniter slid out from the back of the oven and was attached to the assembly with a cannon plug, I disconnected the cannon plug and removed the whole assembly out of the oven and replaced the igniter which was attached by two screws and reassembled in the oven. Where I live in remote Alaska calling a repair technician is not an option, either figure it out or have a new appliance barged in.
i had to remove all the broken glass then removed the metal that was holding the glass. set the new glass in the metal strips and screwed it back togethr. i also had to remove the frame from the door in order to get to the inside glass. then i had to put the door back together.
My burners would not light. There wasn't the tell tale "click, click, click" of the spark module.
First I had to slide the stove out of its cubby and then I removed the two screws holding on the shield. I next removed the wires going to the spark module. I removed the top screw and loosened the bottom one. Installed the new spark module in reverse order. Less than 15 minutes for whole repair. Still have problems with spark module not working if oven is on, but I think it is because there is no air circulation behind the stove.
The repair was fairly easy. The oven door was attached to a spring arm that had one screw holding each arm to the door. Once off, the outside set of screws were removed and saved in a small dish. Each section had 6-10 screws, to it's best to keep each set separate from each other. Each of the three layers (of the door) came apart easily by removing the screws for each section. The inside (broken glass) lifted out, was replaced, and the sequence was repeated in reverse. During the reassembly I was able to clean the other layers of glass that had gotten build-up on them over the years. Total time start to finish was about 30 minutes. Only tool required was a screw driver! Probably saved 100+ dollars!