Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Frost in freezer, fridge not cold
From most posts I've read, the defrost timer was the culprit so I blindly ordered one. Easy install but did not fix the problem so I broke out the ohm meter. The only other 2 items it could be all tested good with my meter so I bypassed the defrost thermostat (per forum help...actually quite easy)and it defrosted fine, which told me I needed a new defrost thermostat. Installed fairly easy and problem gone.
The original support was broken, tried epoxy and it only held for a few months before breaking again
All I had to do was remove the original support that was on the inside wall of the refrigerator, which I had to use pliers since there were broken pieces, and then I just snapped the new one into the three holes provided for this support. The crisper drawer works fine now. It literally only took about 1 minute.
Occasionally, we'd get one batch of ice cubes and a frozen lake of water in the bottom of the ice tray.
The installation was easy and I won't bother duplicating the comments of others who have installed this part.
One word of caution: The ice maker contains a heating element on the bottom. That element is apparently live even when the ice bar is in the upper (off) position. When I unscrewed the old ice maker and went to lift it off the bolts, I severely burned my finger on the bottom of the old ice maker because apparently I started the repair in the middle of the heating cycle.
I highly recommend that you unplug the ice maker entirely before doing the replacement and gingerly ensure that the unit isn't hot before touching it. You'll save yourself a nasty burn.
Shut down Freezer/refrigerator. Disconnected water piping. Extracted old water valve. Replaced with new one. Turned on water and power. Result, Ice cubes.
Removed 2 screws that hold ice maker in place. Unplugged and took out of freezer. Used the screws I took out to put new ice maker in. Plugged in the power and in 2 days I had a full ice bin and haven't had any worries since. Should have replaced the broken one along time ago but thought that the process was harder than this. Very easy and suggest this to anyone having ice maker issues. Less than $100 and never have to buy ice for the house again.
I ept finding clumps of ice in try as though water was spilling over ice maker tray.
I loosened the 2 1/4 inch nuts with a nut driver, disconnected the wire harness, and removed the old unit. to replace, I simply connected the harness and bolted the unit back in. The job took about 10 to 15 minutes and the new unit works better than the old one ever did.
1. Turned off the cooling cycle and unplugged the refrigerator. 2. Removed all of the shelving and bottom basket. 3. Removed rear covering in the freezer section. 4. If frosted over, manually defrost coils with hairdryer. 5. Located original thermostat and after marking the wire locations cut the wires and removed the Thermostat. 6. Connected matching wires using a lighter to melt the wires together. Wrapped repaired wires with electricians tape. 7. Unable to install the thermostat in the recommended location (freezer is a tight fit) the new part was installed at the original location. 8. Replaced the rear cover and shelves. 9. Plugged in the refrigerator and set the cycle back to cooling. 10. Monitored freezer coils couple of days/weeks depending on how fast they freeze over (slots at bottom of cover) to validate if problem solved.
Temperature in both freezer and fridge sections to warm!
Dear Part-select, I had a fridge that was not working food was melting in the freezer, Beer was warm. You get the picture anyway using your site I found the parts needed to to fix the issue in fact I ordered two parts one fixed the issue 50% and the other like 30% of the time! both parts with overnight shipping were cheaper than 1 part if purchased at our local appliance part outlet:) not to mention the cost of a repair person. Thanks again! . Keep up the good work
Tom Houck Spokane, WA Houck Photo 509-723-3418 tomhouck1@comcast.net
Fridge would not cool at all, because the compressor was not running. Fan running, lights working, just no cool.
Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.
This refrigerator is less than 2 years old. I have had to replace the ice maker 2 times now. Cheap ass parts! Only one ice maker you can order so just be prepared to replace it yearly!
Ordered the Capacitor and the Thermostat Control. Parts were received in a matter of a few days, easy to install, but did not fix the problem. Had to call a repairman to fix the problem (compressor relay - this part not available to order for this model number with Parts Select). Will continue to use Parts Select in the future for other parts, but not happy that the actual part I needed was not available - had to use other methods.
