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The refrigerator wasn't cold enough.
I removed the plastic shroud on the ceiling of the refigerator, unscrewed and unplugged the old defrost timer, and replaced it with the new one. I reinstalled the shroud with the new timer installed.
refrigerator coil frozen up and kept the refrigerator from cooling
Remove front cover below door, remove 2 screws attaching the defrost timer to the refrigerator frame. Unplug wiring harness plug from timer an install new one. Remove metal cover in back of the freezer compartment. unpug the two wires going to the thermostat, remove the thermostat { thermostat is held onto the cooling coil with a clip} , remove thermostat and replace with new one
Removed the back panel of the freezer. Unplugged the defrost cycle thermostat and replace with a new one. Removed the bottom cover in front of the refrer. removed the defrost timer, plugged new timer in. manually tripped the defrost timer. checked the defrost heater for operation. Checked OK, replaced covers, works like a champ
The defrost timer is faily easy to replace, first unplug the unit, then remove the toe gaurd, then lay on the floor with your light and phillips screwdriver, locate the 2 screws at the lower left side, remove them and the timer and it's shield will drop down. unplug the old timer, plug the new one in and re-install everything. The temp sensor is located in the back of the freezer compartment. Again make sure the unit is unplugged, remove freezer shelves and lower basket, then with a 1/4" nut driver, remove the screws holding the rear panel on, remove the panel and locate the sensor on the upper evaporator tube, unclip it and disconnect the 2 wires, reverse procedure and plug it back in. Not to get on a soap box, but this is the 3rd time i have had the same problem with this unit, plus several other problems.
Freezer was freezing but refridgerator was warm. Checked fan and it was not turning.
Unplug fridge. Removed 2 nuts to get the vent plate off and two more nuts to get the motor mount off. Removed fan blade and then the fan motor. I put the new motor in and put everything back as it was. It was very easy. I had items in the freezer, so I didn't turn the fridge off other than to replace the part. It took about 6 hours for the fridge to reach optional temps because I didn't get to defrost and the fridge had to work it out on it's own. If you don't need the freezer then you should turn the refridgerator off for at least an hour and open the doors so the coils can defrost and any ice blockage between the freezer and fridge portion can melt away as well.
Compressor Starter/Overload relay burned and smoked
Heard the snap of a short circuit followed by a burning smell around the refrigerator. Pulled it out, unplugged it and removed the back panel with a nut driver. Plugged it back in and when the compressor kicked on I saw sparks and some smoke at the relay. Unplugged and ordered new relay and the associated run capacitor in case it was also bad. Removed the holding clip and the relay with capacitor easily came out with two wires attached. Removing the wires was done by prying with needle nose pliers with some difficulty. Inserting the wires into the new relay was also difficult. If the position isn't just right it does not snap in. Once it is positioned correctly it makes a positive connection with not much effort. Reassembled the capacitor, plugged unit into compressor, added retaining clip and plugged in refrigerator. Compressor started up correctly. Note that as the refrigerator cools the compressor will shut off for long periods of time. This is normal.
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
unplug power from ref removed old light socket only difference wired a little different checked new socket compaired to old checked terminal ends small big looked at wires big,little plugged up put in new light blub plugged ref power back on work power off pushed socket bac in power on works
Based on the website I decided it was most probably the defrost timer, and that was correct. I ordered it, watched the video, and two days later the part was at my door. Took the nut driver, removed 4 screws, then removed the old defrost timer, installed the new one, re-installed the whole plastic assembly with the four screws, and done!!! Couldn't have been easier.
The original support was broken, tried epoxy and it only held for a few months before breaking again
All I had to do was remove the original support that was on the inside wall of the refrigerator, which I had to use pliers since there were broken pieces, and then I just snapped the new one into the three holes provided for this support. The crisper drawer works fine now. It literally only took about 1 minute.
removed the screws/nuts; pulled the back panel off, removed the old thermostat (wires just popped apart) replaced the new thermostat (wires just popped back on) replaced the back panel and the nuts and TaDa!!
From most posts I've read, the defrost timer was the culprit so I blindly ordered one. Easy install but did not fix the problem so I broke out the ohm meter. The only other 2 items it could be all tested good with my meter so I bypassed the defrost thermostat (per forum help...actually quite easy)and it defrosted fine, which told me I needed a new defrost thermostat. Installed fairly easy and problem gone.
Cooling coils would ice up and fridge would warm up
I removed the shelves in the freezer, took out the five 1/4" screws and lifted off the cover. It was a simple matter of using a blow drier to remove all the ice, then unplugging the two wires and unclipping the thermostat from the upper cooling tube. Then clipped the new one on and reconnecting the two wires.
