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Microwave oven ran but stopped heating
I had to unmount the over-the-range microwave oven to be able to gain access to the interior of the oven. Complicating removal (and re-installation) was the fact that there is a "pot-filler" faucet installed directly underneath the oven. In retrospect, I should've removed the faucet before doing the repair, but "c'est la vie."
After I got the microwave down, removing the case was also "interesting." I get bonus points for the fact that the previous owner must've had to replace the same diode before - and then re-assembled the microwave case incorrectly - thereby adding to the confusion (BTW, the service manual that I found online said nothing about how to remove the oven's case).
To remove the case, undo all the screws holding it on, and then rotate the case upwards from the back while also pulling the case backwards. There are crimped folds on the inside of the case that mate with the back edges of the front of the oven's chassis, and these folds have to be unclipped from the chassis in order to remove the case.
Replacing the diode itself was the easiest part of the job. The two connectors on the diode are of different types, making it impossible to install the diode with the wrong polarity.
BTW, the diode that had failed was not an OEM diode; I suspect it was a generic component that had been installed by a repairman sometime between 2004-2008 (when our home's original owners still owned the home). On the other hand, the new diode from PartSelect is an OEM part (it came packaged in a sealed Whirlpool bag).
The fact that the oven had stopped heating indicated that it was either the high-voltage diode or the magnetron that had failed. Since a replacement diode costs ~ 1/10th as much as a replacement magnetron, I figured it made sense to replace the cheaper part first. Fortunately, this fixed the problem.
One last thing: I tried testing both the old and new diodes for conductivity and polarity using my volt-ohm meter (VOM), but I was unable to get either diode to "turn on," even though my VOM is powered by a 9-v battery, and I used the 2-Mohm range setting. I guess the test voltage of my el-cheapo VOM isn't high enough to exceed the diode's threshold voltage, (even though I have successfully used this same VOM to test low-voltage diodes).
1. Order correct light bulb for unit and have it with you before removing old lightbulb. My Microwave is built into cabinet. 2. Disconnect power (Either turn breaker off or unplug unit from wall) 3. Remove face cover on cabinet. (4 Phillips head screws) I was able to reach in the opening in the cabinet and unplug from the wall. 4. Remove Phillip head screws holding microwave in cabinet. 5. Remove microwave from cabinet. 6. Remove Phillip head screws and torx screws holding outside cover on the back of unit and the side (1 on right side) and then remove cover. Light bulb is on the top front right side. 7. Remove 1 philip head screw holding light bulb and unplug quick connector wires. 8. Plug quick connector into new light bulb same way it came out and place new light bulb in place and put the 1 philips head screw holding it back in place. 9. Put cover back on and all the screws. Temporary plug the unit in to test light bulb works before securing it back into cabinet. 10. Reverse order 5,4,Plug unit in wall before putting the face back on. Done.
Access is via RT. SIDE Panel as you face microwave. There are three screws on the bottom right edge to loosen. After that the side panel slips down and off. the fuse is located in the rear near where the power cord comes in. It is the white ceramic tube 1/4" in dia. and 1-1/2" long. Pull it out like any fuse and replace with new one. Reassemble and you are done!
Replaced the broken piece with the one purchased at Partselect.com. I was concerned that the part would not be correct since all we did was enter the model number of the microwave. PartSelect.com was really easy to use and sent the correct part. Thanks so much for making this process easy.
Required that i remove the built in frame and mounting. Required tamper proof socket to remove housing. I removed the old bulb and simply replaced and reverse installed the cabinet.
Turn table did not consistently turn during microwave oven operation.
Using fingers, the old turntable roller guide was pulled up off the motor shaft. The plastic roller guide shaft coupler was found to be broken, allowing the motor shaft to spin without turning the roller guide. The hole in the floor of the oven was inspected, and no broken pieces were found which could interfere with the new roller guide. The new roller guide was then gently pressed down over the motor shaft. Very easy.
Watched a you tube video prior to installing new switch. Followed the video which gave me confidence i was up to the task. After removing the touch pad I found my design was not exactly like the you tube model but I found the defective switch, replaced it and put the microwave back together. Works great. Again watch the videos
Stem broken off the turntable base so the turntable wouldn't rotate
Removed the broken plastic base that the glass turntable sets on and put in the new plastic base. Took 5 seconds max! The part arrived in about 24 hours! Great service!
Microwave fan would come on when door open. Timer and unit would not switch on.
I looked up my problem on the internet and found a very helpful video. Microwave on video was different brand but the internals and methods were very much the same. The video made it simple and easy to fix. Found the replacement switch on the LG parts site and ordered. Two different switch types. One with red switch, the other green. Part was $7.28. Saved a bundle in service costs. Here is the repair video.
Items were not getting heated up in the microwave,
I went to LG website enter model number and was given a list of parts that need to be replaced with a percentage of which part fails the most. I order micro switch PS3522738 which arrived and PS3529293 was backordered. I installed the one that arrived. The microwave worked briefly. I reordered and waited for both switches to arrive and installed both. The microwave still doesn't work.
i unplugged the unit,unscrewed the outer shell so that all the wiring and internal components were visible.starting at the first of three micro switches i removed the slip on terminals installed the alligator clips too the wires so the switch would now be bypassed.i made sure the wires and clips were not touching anything plugged unit in and it worked.i then installed the new switch and closed up the outer shell
