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Models > EWMGD70JSS0 > Instructions

EWMGD70JSS0 Electrolux Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for EWMGD70JSS0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the EWMGD70JSS0
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The Heating System Of The Propane Dryer Stopped Working

  • Customer: Bert from Silver City, NM
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
When I direct the dryer exhaust into the room during the winter there is an external lint filter in the ducting. For some reason,enough lint got by the dryers filter and over a few cycles clogged the exhaust. I correctly assumed that the dryer overheated and some thermal limiter had opened up. The manual had exploded views and I located the limiter. Getting to it was another issue. The manual gave nbo instructions on getting to the limiter, but I had installed a propane conversion kit when I first got the dryer. It was necessary to remove the top, control panel, and front panel/door assembly. Disconnecting the gas line,some cable connectors, and a few screws allowed the removale of the burner assembly, then removal of the metal tube that surrounded the burner assembly and held a number of sensors, including the thermal limit, which, as expected, showed an open circuit. The replacement part was ordered and checked out as a closed circuit, which it should. Reassembly was the reverse. A little difficult to work in the cramped lower corner of the dryer. I'm 82 years old now but machines cannot beat me!!

dryer wouldn't heat

  • Customer: robert from sonora, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Part Select got me the right parts in the agreed time--good job. Shut off the power or unplug the dryer which ever is easiest. The toughest part of doing this job was figuring out how the lid came off the dryer, if you have a jack knife or a putty knife you push it in between the top of the dryer and the body about an inch below the dryer top and about six inch from both sides of the dryer front you will hit a latch that releases the top--slip a screw driver into the opening and do the other side. The top can be removed or you can hold it open with a stick. There are two screws that you need to locate they are on the inside of the dryer front about 9" from the top one on each side they are all that hold the front on the body so remove them but carefully not to drop them inside the dryer. On my dryer there were two screw inside the dryer door that held the filter body onto the front that had to be removed too. Then push the screw driver between the front and the body of the dryer like the top and it will pop open. There are some wires going to the front from the body they can be unplug just follow the wires to the connection point. On mine, I squeezed the sides of the connector and the wires pulled apart. Now you can move the front aside. At the lower right in the body you find the valve and heater burner. On top of the valve there are two sets of wires coming off the valve. Disconnect the wires--one set is for a three wire connection the other for two wire connection. Your parts have a two wire coil and a three wire coil. The coils are freed by unscrewing the metal cover that holds them down remove the two screws and that cover then remove the old coil off the valve then replace the new coil with the part that is the same. Three pin coil with three pin coil positioning in the same way as the old coil, then do the other one. Reattached the metal cover with the screws and put it all back together in reverse order. The dryer chamber--the inside of the dryer rests on the front so when you put them together you may have to lift the chamber up to met the face a little (1/4"). Good luck.

Dryer did not stay hot through complete cycle

  • Customer: Miles from Austin, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
This repair took about fifteen minutes. I popped the top of the dryer using a flat-blade screwdriver, leaned it back against the back wall, unscrewed two screws holding the front panel, removed the five electrical spade contacts after marking which went where, swung out the panel and lifted it off. After that, it was a simple job to unscrew the plate holding the solenoids in, at the bottom left of the unit. I replaced the solenoids, closed everything up and now the dryer is working better than it has in the last three years, or so. If your dryer is heating sporadically, the odds are 85%, or more, that a solenoid swap-out will correct the problem.

Burner Bad

  • Customer: TERRY from MILLSBORO, DE
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Ordered part received next day fast shipping was great part in and working thanks

Dryer ran, had no heat

  • Customer: Tom from Essexville, MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Your website was very helpful in narrowing down and diaganosing the problem. A continuity tester verified an open solenoid. Ordered Sunday evening, parts arrived Tuesday. Ignition coils drop in place with a holddown bracket and one screw. Wiring harness is reattached. Front of dryer is put in place followed by the top. Plugged in the dryer (it is just commom sense to have the power off). Started dryer, of course it ran WITH heat. The end of the story is HAPPY WIFE, HAPPY LIFE. Happy to do business with you. Tom , MI

Plastic water valve sprung a leak through the plastic.

  • Customer: Terry from Lakewood, OH
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Fast and easy. Started by pulling out refrigerator and unplugging it. Water valve for ice maker was already turned off due to leaking. Disconnected old valve, detached old valve, reattached new valve and reconnected water lines. Bled the lines and turned back on. Make sure temp in freezer stays at recommended temps for ice making.

Error code 66 - door open

  • Customer: David from Irvine, CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Remove 2 screws at the upper rear attached to the top panel. Slide panel rear back and remove. Remove 2 screws attached to the front control panel. Lift panel upward. Remove 4 screws attached to the front panel (2 at the top, under the control panel, two at the very bottom). Lift front panel up and off, and unplug connector to door switch. Remove some more screws on the internal front panel edges, and the front to back brace holding up the control board. Lift panel up and out, and remove the drum, too. Thermal limiter located toward the rear, attached to the heating vent tube. Disconnect and replace. Re-assemble in reverse order.

Not getting water to freezer tray.

  • Customer: Robet from Hermitage, TN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Turn off water, un-plug refrigerator, dis-connect water, un-screw bracket, remove valve and replace same way...Very easy

no heat

  • Customer: Edwin from Brooklyn, NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Remove top cover 2 screws then remove front panel 6 screws remove wire connecter on the door panel. ignition coil is on the bottom left side need a short hand srew driver remove 2 screws remove plate holding coils remove coils and connecter. Reinstall in reverse installation. Dryer still didnt heat up so back to the drawing board :)

dryer wouldn't heat

  • Customer: David from Balsam Lake, WI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the panel between the dryer and washer. The gas valve was right in front. The wires were in a plug and easy to remove from old part. The solinoid held in place by a clamp with two screws.

Dryer not heating up consistently

  • Customer: Case from Los Angeles, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
My dryer was heating up very briefly blowing hot air initially then cool. I have a stacking washer/dryer set (2002). I initially turned off the gas valve at the wall, ran the dry for several minutes to clear the gas line, then unplugged the power. I was then able to pop the top using a flathead screw driver, securely prop it open, unhook the wiring harness to the front panel, unscrew the two front panel screws, and remove the entire front without having to unstack the units. From there, you remove the two screws holding the bracket over the coils (2 of them), remove the electrical connectors attached to both coils and replaced them with the new ones. I then replaced all brackets, screws, and such (you'll need to lift the drum when putting the front back on and make sure it is lined up), plugged it back into power and turned on the gas to test the unit which worked perfectly. The 62% of the time seems to be an accurate figure as nothing else had to be done to the unit. Pretty easy stuff...good luck.

No reheat

  • Customer: PETER from Fremont, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Pried the lid up and flipped it back then disconnected the front panel wiring harness and then popped the front panel loose at the top and dropped it down. Disconnected the ignition coils, removed the coil retainer bracket and replaced the coils. Reassembled it in reverse order, performed functional test. Success!
All Instructions for the EWMGD70JSS0
46-60 of 69