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non-functioning refrigerator lite switch
My owners manual said to unplug fridge from elec outlet, use a kitchen knife to gently pry off the switch plate (manual had a pictoral example), unclip the two wire, replace with on new switch and replace the switch. Close door and plug back in. Open door to check that the lite works. Walla! It did. Thanks!
I was lucky in that I already had an ice maker and just had to replace the unit. The parts and instructions were complete and easy to follow. Installation was a breeze with no concerns at all. The new unit is working flawlessly and we are very happy with the results. Thank you for supplying a quality replacement and excellent support via the instructions. The service was outstanding and I had my unit in about 3 days!!!
The repair was super easy and the part worked like a charm. I love my new ice maker! I had to take out the top freezer shelf just so I could fit my head in the freezer to find one screw, but otherwise all went fine. Ice maker is held on with two top screws and one bottom screw. Loosen the two top screws, remove the bottom screw and lift out the ice maker. It plugs into wires on the inside, back of the freezer so this has to be unplugged. Plug in the wires for the new one, slide it down onto the two top, loose screws, tighten those and screw in the bottom one, replace freezer shelves and you are ready for ice...with no huge iceberg fouling up the ice in your ice cube tray. Simple! The wiring thing worried me when others described it, but it's no harder than plugging in a lamp, really. If I can do it, anybody who can stand on a shorty ladder can do it.
Hinge bracket between refrig and bottom freezer had broken. This is the part which keeps the door from opening too far.
After I did the prep work of removing the items inside the door the project took less than 15 minutes to get the repair job done. 1. Remove the door by taking off the top hinge cover on top of the door, remove the three screws with a socket wrench, remove the plastic gasket under the hinge, left door up and off the lower hinge pin 2. Place the new bracket on the freezer door hinge pin, flange side down 3. I had to place an extra spacer washer, which I had on hand, on top of the hinge bracket 4. Replace the door on the bottom hinge pin 5. My husband held the door in place as I reattached the top of the door with the plastic spacer and 3 screws I had removed 6. Replaced the plastic gasket and hinge cap on the top 7. With the door reattached, I removed the existing screw under the door directly below the new hinge bracket, lined up the hinge bracket to the screw hole and attached it in place. Much to my surprise and pleasure, the door swings perfectly, stopping where it should with the door shelves loaded! Thank you PartSelect for having a part that would work for my 16 year old refrigerator even though I had to add a washer shim to make the new part as thick as the original.
Went to various websites looking for guidance. Finally went to PartSelect since I had previously purchased dryer parts. I entered the model info, etc. from my refrigerator and ordered the ice maker installation kit. The install was fairly easy and everything worked perfectly. I am very satisfied I could do the work myself versus calling a repair technician.
I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.
disconnected el. power to fridge. pried out broken switch with small screwdriner and pulled out w/water pump pliers. installed new switch and pressed into opening.
I tried to just replace the cover rather than the whole unit but it was impossible - the cover would not go/stay on. I tried to remove the old unit completely but it would not unplug it was practically fused to the back of the fridge and the liner was cracking. I ended up breaking the cover and jerry rigging it over the bulb to prevent items in the fridge from being able to touch. Bad solution.
Light switch in the refrigerator was faulty from the first day we installed the fridge.
I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!