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EMO4000JCC04 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

All installation instructions for EMO4000JCC04 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the microwave repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the EMO4000JCC04
1-15 of 532
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Microwave completely stopped working

  • Customer: Kim from Cliffside Park, NJ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 739 of 968 people found this instruction helpful
Turned out the issue was easily solved by replacing a single, inexpensive fuse.


The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the microwave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.

light worked, timer and control pad worked, but no turntable, no heat, no noises of any sort, just didn't start up

  • Customer: Marla from Arlington, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 224 of 256 people found this instruction helpful
Noted on partselect.com that someone else with this problem, found it to be secondary door switch. There are three door switches in this model, but online info noted that one of the three might feel "soft" (in my case, one switch clicked in a rather "jiggly" way, the other two were strong decisive clicks.) To access the door switches on this model was the only difficult part. First use a torx bit to remove the two torx screws below the latches inside the microwave. This frees the latching part inside, that holds the door switches, which you will remove after you take off the control panel. The top grill has to come off before you can remove the door panel. Remove the screws above the grill, on the microwave top cover, The grill on this model is covered with a panel that moves out when it vents. After removing the two top screws, the covered grill vent slides left to remove. Be careful, as the sliding tabs are plastic. Wiggle and jiggle it, to slip it off. Below the removed grill, is a small metal grill with one screw in lower center. Remove that screw, and wiggle that out. You'll then see the one screw that holds on the control panel. Remove this screw, and lift the control panel up to remove. Again, go slowly and gently, as the bottom tabs holding the control panel in, are also plastic and easily broken. Lay the control panel on something, (I used the coffee maker) and pull out the wire bundles tucked on the left, that are attached to the latching panel. Wiggle the latching panel gently to lift it up off of it's plastic tabs and pull it out towards you, so you can see the three door switches. Each switch (part number WB24X829) has a little black switch on it. Feel each switch with either your finger, or a screwdriver to see which one doesn't "click" strongly. The weak one is the one you will replace. The door switches are fitted into a tab, and plugged into their wires. Remove the defective switch, pull out the wires, and replace it with the new switch, plugging back the wires, and slipping it back into it's plastic tabs. Then put everything back together in reverse order. The entire job took me fifteen minutes EXCEPT for figuring out how to slide off the upper grill, which I have told you. A repairman would have cost $150, the part was $18. AND, there's a good chance, the other two switches will get "used up" in the next year or so as well, so I'll be ready next time. Thank you, Partselect, why work all day, to make money, only to give it to somebody else, for fifteen minutes of work. All I needed was the knowledge.

Light bulb out, tried to remove, lamp socket broke

  • Customer: Gene from Urbana, IL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 180 of 204 people found this instruction helpful
Above the stove mounted microwave. I dropped the lens cover from under the bulb and tried to remove the bulb. The bulb separated from the base. I tried to remove the base with a pliers and the lamp socket broke. I ordered the parts and dropped the bottom cover of the unit down (5 screws). Removed 1 screww from the lamp socket, unplugged the wires and took it out. Simply replaced socket, fastened bottom cover of microwave, installed new bulb and closed lens cover.

Lens cracked and bulbs burned out

  • Customer: Mark from GRAND BLANC, MI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 205 of 280 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the single screw holding the lens assembly in place. Then I lowered the assembly and tilted it until it came out. To remove the existing cracked glass lens there were four tabs bent down on it. By hand I lifted each tab just enough to remove the broken lens. I then replaced the broken lens with the new one and re-bent the tabs down by hand to secure them to the new lens.

The lens assembly, now removed, revealed the cavity that contained the two halogen bulbs. Since they were both burned out for days, they weren't hot so I could pull each one out by hand. The bulbs are secured by two straight heavy gauge wire leads and provided a little resistance but come out fairly easily. Make a mental note of the angle they came out so it will be easier to replace them with new ones.

You're not supposed to touch halogen bulbs with your bare hands, so I used the bubble wrap they came in as a means to hold the bulb while installing it.

Be sure to insert the bulbs at the same angle they came out so the pins do not get bent.

Once both bulbs are in place, replace the lens cover assembly by putting the end opposite where the screw hole goes in first on the right, then swing it up until flush and screw it down.

The turntable motor went out and was making a horrible sound when I started the microwave

  • Customer: Kim from Centerville, GA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 153 of 219 people found this instruction helpful
First I unplugged the microwave. :) Then, I removed the 6 screws found underneath the microwave, which allowed the bottom piece to hang down so I could see the turntable motor. I took the two screws out holding the motor in place and pulled the electric connectors off the motor terminals. Then I got the new part from PartSelect.com, replaced the electrical commectors, fit the motor back into the slot it came from (cause the pin has to be seated up in the hole) and replaced the 2 screws holding in the motor. Then I put the bottom metal piece back up and put the 6 screws back in. It was really easy - and I'm a chick! ;)

Grinding sound when tray turned

  • Customer: Charles from Wall, NJ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 83 of 87 people found this instruction helpful
Unscrewed bottom plate of microwave and two screws that secured motor. Disconnect wires. Reversed process when installing new motor. Couldn't have been easier.

Unit worked fine except it would not heat

  • Customer: Roy from Colorado Springs, CO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 84 of 90 people found this instruction helpful
Had to take unit off wall and disassemble the main casing.then disconnected the wires from the magnetron.took the mounting nuts off but wasn't able to remove the magnetron until I loosened the transformer out of the way .Then it came out easy.Installed the magnetron ,tightened the nuts,installed the transformer back in, connected the the wires back on and installed the casing on ,screwed the screws and got help to install the unit to the wall again.....Tested the unit before putting back on the wall to make sure it heated....The parts were exac same type and wasn't too hard to do...

bulb had broken off in base that was still screwed into socket

  • Customer: william from san antonio, TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 80 of 84 people found this instruction helpful
At first I tried to use pliers to unscrew the base,very uncomfortable working position,upside down and backwards(the microwave is installed over the range top)very limited space for your body and arms to manuver and you really cant see the base,all of this took place after the breaker was turned off ofcourse,finally figured out that you can drop the entire bottom housing of the microwave by unscrewing 6 screws and the light sockets are easily accessable once you lower it,take out 1 retaining screw ,remove the entire socket and unscrewed the broken base and replaced the bulbs,I said bulbs,there is no sense in having to replace another bulb in who knows how long since only one had burned out but they were both the same age

The microwave turntable stopped working.

  • Customer: Larry from Brandon, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 97 of 162 people found this instruction helpful
The tray drive motor arrived quickly. I opened the package and made sure the correct motor arrived. I shut off the power to the microwave/exhaust hood. Then I grabbed a screwdriver and dropped 5 screws from the bottom of the microwave. I then removed 2 more screws that hold the motor in place. Unplugged the 21 volt power clips. Placed the new motor in position and replaced the screws and attatched the power clips. I then placed the bottom pan in position and replaced the 5 screws that hold it to the bottom of the microwave. Turned the microwave on and it worked properly! The total cost was $40 and I probably saved more than a hundred dollars on a service call. What a happy ending and it took about 5 minutes to perform the repair! Thanks PartSelect. You are the best!

Socket cracks and goes brittle from heat from bulb.

  • Customer: Thomas from Deltona, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 52 of 59 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the microwave first, then removed the screws that hold the cover in place. This gives easy access to the socket. Remove the screws that hold the socket in, unplug old socket, replace with new one and you are back in the light again.

Under the vent light bulbs needed to be replaced

  • Customer: Robert from Naples, ME
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 55 of 75 people found this instruction helpful
Turned of f the circuit breaker to the microwave. Unscrewed the cover (1 screw!) popped out the old bulbs and plugged in the new ones, using the bubblewrap as a handle to be sure my skin didn't touch the light bulbs so the oil from my hands didn't damage or shorten the life of the new bulbs. Turned the circuit back on. That's it!

Carousel tray drive coupler broke

  • Customer: BRIAN from PERRY, OK
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 46 of 57 people found this instruction helpful
This coupler has a tab on it that keeps you from being able to push it straight down onto the motor from the inside of the microwave.
Turn off the breaker to the microwave or unplug it. Remove five screws that hold the bottom cover of the microwave. The cover will hinge down and hang on tabs at the back.
Unplug the wire connector on the drive motor by pulling it straight off. Remove one screw that locks the drive motor in place. Turn the motor slightly to unlatch it from its mounting tabs.
Place the new coupler into the opening inside the microwave. While holding/turning the coupling with one hand, insert the motor shaft into the coupling. It will only fit one way. Press the motor and coupling together until the motor can be latched into its mounting tabs. Secure motor with screw and install bottom cover.

Oven wouldn't heat

  • Customer: CARTER from OXNARD, CA
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 36 of 37 people found this instruction helpful
Over the range microwave. Replaced magnetron. Completely disassemble the case top and bottom.
Remove screws from bottom of HV transformer. Magnetron will not clear without this removal.

Remove nuts with socket from top of Magnetron. Remove thermo unit from old magnetron and attach it to new. Replace and bolt down Mag. Replace and screw in HV transformer. Make sure all wires are reconnected.

Put it back up on the wall. Took about three hours from taking it down from wall and putting it back up.

oven wouldn't heat

  • Customer: david from elmira, NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 43 of 58 people found this instruction helpful
1. remove microwave from wall
2. remove cover (many screws)
3. remove nuts holding magnetron in place (4)
4. remove magnetron (this is a pain due to the plastic molding used to direct cooling air through the magnetron
5. get new magnetron in place (this was even more fun to find the right angles to tilt to get the magnetron to fit
6. re-tighten the 4 nuts on the magentron
7. put the cover back on
8. put the unit back on the wall.

bonus repair: the display flickered while the magnetron was on (cooking ) prior to the magnetron dying. found a ribbon cable on the control board to the display with an aluminum foil shield that had peeled off (adhesive failure). re-installing the aluminum shield with packaging tape, and the display no longer flickers

Turntable won't move, no heat -but light and fan ok.

  • Customer: Sean from San Jose, CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 32 of 39 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the 2 Torx-15 screws at left of control panel. Work the control panel out by pulling slightly to the left first - it is engaged to the slotted holes to the right.

Remove the door's upper switch by lifting the tab and pulling out the switch carefully. To install the new switch, you may have to remove 2 philips screws holding the plastic assembly where the switches are mounted to the metal frame.

Diagrams on the website are misleading b/c the switch shown up on top of the other 2 switches is the switch w/ the NC (upper) terminal while you'll need the NO (lower) terminal for this repair (symptoms are: turntable won't move, no heat -but light and fan ok). I should have called before ordering the part (had to pay shipping twice)...

Once I got the right part, it works just like before.
All Instructions for the EMO4000JCC04
1-15 of 532