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noise eminating from carousel
I removed 4 screw from the under carriage of the microwave then, removed the 2 screws from the motor, replaced the motor and replaced the screws. It was so easy it took only 4 minutes to perform, better than replacing the whole unit (microwave) and less expensive too. i only wish it was made in the US, I wouldn't mind to spend a little more.
After examination - evidently some one had put a larger dish in the microwave and it stopped the glass plate from turning and broke the holder stirrer(small plastic piece that held the glass plate so that it could turn. When I received the right part I simply made sure that all the prior plastic was out or out of the way and placed the new part onto to the shaft - tested it a few times, made a minor alignment and it has worked fine ever since. Thanks to your staff for finding the right piece from the description I gave.
getting the frame on was fairly easy, used a flat knife(butter) to loosen up and flip off, mostly over the notch in the hinge part. the handle did not fit, correctly upon and broke the screw area for securing, and had to order another handle, did not fit with the new frame, only one hole lined up. used the only two screws to that lined up, hopefully will hold good enough
Removed broken coupler hub and pushed new hub on shaft. Make sure to align the new hub correctly when pushing on to shaft. Repair took less than 1 minute.
This repair was one of the easiest I've ever done. I turned off the power to the microwave at the breaker, lowered the bottom panel by removing the screws, disconnected the wires to the old motor, pulled it out by removing two screws attaching it, attached the new motor with the same screws, connected the wires to it and that was all. The turnable has worked perfectly (and quietly) since.
Two screws to remove upper from vent. Two screws to remove the didgit panel lift ip to remove and put aside remove the two screws that hold the door sensors. Depress the tab to remove the defective sensor disconnect the electrical connector and replace the new sensor snap it back into the holder install the two screws, install the didgital panel and vent panel to complete the job. Please be aware that there is a video of this procedure on Y tube
I tried to install the new part several times, but it didn't work. So I used a pencil to move things around down the shaft. After that the new part went in and now my microwave is doing what I need it to do.
Removed the outer cover to access the door switches. Turns out there were three switches, but I determined that only two were bad. When the small colored tab on the switch is pushed in it should make a clicking sound. The two bad switches had no resistance and did not make any noise when pressed. Removing the switch is relatively easy, you simply pull it away from a couple small tabs holding them in place. After reconnecting the wire leads, insert back into the holding tabs and install the cover.
The microwave turntable rotates when the door is open.
This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open." With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open. Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower. There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon. Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.
My microwave is built in above the stove which provides lighting and fans for my stove. The glass lens cover for the lighting was cracked in several places and the light bulbs had burned out. I taped the glass lens for removal so it didn't break apart due to the cracks Removed the one screw. .Both light bulbs broke away from the base sockets as I tried to unscrew them. I used electrical tape wrapping in reverse on a lightbulb (socket end) so it was sticky for a grip on the base, shoved it in the sockets and was unable to unscrew the broke off bases. So it was very successful and no repair man was needed.
