DU4000 Dishwasher - Instructions

Took out about 7 torx screws to remove the inner door liner. Discovered evidence of leak coming from the sop dispenser latch, and noticed the grommet had turned soft and was torn. The grommet is only about 1" square. Used nut driver to remove two screws to remove latch assembly. Slipped old grommet off and put new one on, and reattached the latch. The foam seal at the bottom of the door looked worn, so we replaced it with weatherstripping from home improvement store. The main door seal was brittle, so we replaced it too - just grab an end and pull the old one out. The new one was installed by starting at one end and we just pushed it in place. We used a nut-driver to push it in - we were afraid a screwdriver might damage it. The new door seal required us to latch the door to get it to stay closed the fist couple of days, but now it has loosened up a bit and works as expected. And NO MORE LEAKS. Cost is much less than a new unit!

I opened the end stop of the rack, replaced the roller, and put the end stop back on. I can't believe I paid the repairman the last time $125????? An he put in a regular screw that rusted and broke the roller. Took me 3 minutes! Thanks

I watched the installlation video found on the wedsite and followed his directions.

Installed new door seal. Dishwasher still leaked. Googled the model number and then cleaned the filter at the bottom of the dishwasher, still leaked.
Verified that manifold bearing was not work. It was OK.
Found note that a plugged vent might cause leaking door. Very counterintuitive. Pried off air vent cover. Vent was thouroughly plugged with calcium deposts from steam. Cleaned these out.
Dishwasher no longer leaks.

Disconnect unit and remove from under counter. remove lower spray arm, tip over dishwasher on it's back, diconnect wires from motor , unscrew drain fitting rotate motor mounts to and lift pump and motor assembly up and out from inside the dishwasher. thoughly clean all parts during pump disassembly( under running water and a toothbrush works well) . Looking at a parts diagram,and using your memory from disassembly replace the new seals and put it all back together, with patience you can do anything and use common sense.

Ordered both drain & wash impeller kit and the drain check valve with o-ring. Decided to test the cheaper drain check valve first. Pulled dishwasher out from wall & adjacent cabinetry; removed drain hose from disposer and drained as much water as possible; "jacked" side of dishwasher to gain access to drain hose and drain check valve; used pliers to remove hose clamp; placed flat pan underneath to catch remaining water drainage; unscrewed drain check valve; tested under bathroom faucet--determined faulty; replaced with the new one, restored connections, reset dishwasher in proper location; voila--fixed! Plan to return the unneeded impeller kit.

Using the pliers, my husband pulled out the old gasket to get it started. He then pushed the new gasket in with his fingers and used a screwdriver to press in the ends. That's it. Pretty easy. I ran the dishwasher a couple of hours after he installed it and there were no leaks. Still not leaking. Seems a bit quieter since the seal
is better.

I was secretly hoping for a new dishwasher eventually. But it makes much more sense to shell out $43 for the gasket rather than spend the $600 or better for a new dishwasher!

I found the website very easy to use as well. Everything shipped quickly and there were no problems at all. I will bookmark this in favorites should I need it again!

remove the eight screws that hold the inside door cover to gain access to the door switch.
remove the four wire conections and replace with new new switch

I originally thought the door gasket was leaking so I went to partselect on line to order the gasket. After seeing the repair story results, I also decided to order the soap dispenser grommet also. I first relaced the door gasket as that takes about 5 minutes (take the easy way first right,) I was wrong as it still leaked. I then took the 7 torx head screws off from the door and the inside section just lifts off exposing the underside and the real problem. The soap latch had been leaking and was obvious from the dried soap/water trail. You have to remove two small screws and the whole unit comes out very simply. I took the extra time to clean off the build up of soap and hard water before replacing the seal and remounting the soap dispensing latch assembly. Ran another load and no more leaks! Thanks for the advise and the really simple but accurate way to order parts. I will use this site if I ever need any other parts. Very helpful and quick deliver as well as reasonably priced.

The first thing I did was to investigate. I needed to find where the leak was coming from. It was leaking from just above tne door front panel, directly underneath the control panel buttons. I opened the dishwasher door, and decided to remove the door screen vent. I was covered with some offwhite fiberous, or filter like material. I thought perhaps the filter had broken down, and I ordered a new screen. When it arrived, and, although I had expected to receive a new filter with the plastic door screen, I didn't. There wasn't one to be ordered. I looked at the screen again. My problem was, that although I had considered that the substance I had thought was a filter, was instead build up of detergent, and other particals. That idea didn't seem to make sense. I didn't think it was possible for that stuff to get to the door screen. I thought, it was too far away from the dispenser and food particles. As it turned out, the buildup was, in fact, the problem. I properly cleaned the door vent, which was then fine, and I put it back into the door. There were no more leaks, that was it, and the problem was solved. As a last note however, unfortunatley, I have to return the new door vent screen that I ordered. I enjoyed solving the problem, and you all helped alot. Let's do it again sometime.

I removed the old gasket, installed the new one which took about 20 seconds.Tested the unit, water was still dripping, but in a different fashion.As per a previous poster's instructions I removed the vent cover. (Located inside the dishwasher up high.)I cleaned out the calcium deposits with hot water and a sacraficial toothbrush. "Ta-Da!" Everything is now groovy!Thank you so very much for your excellent service. Your site was easy to use and your shipping was "lightning fast!" Also, the advice you sent me was invaluable. I thank you, my wife thanks you and my trained lobster thanks you too! :)

I ordered and replaced both the door gasket (easy) and inner door seal (difficult) to try and correct a leak during operation. The door gasket was easily replaced. However, the inner door seal was a bit more trouble. After removing the inner door I found that the old inner seal needed to be removed and surfaces thoroughly cleaned of old build-up of dishwasher soap residue, in order to allow the sticky back tape side of door seal to properly stick to the door. There also was a plastic cover over the wire bundle that needed to be cleaned. The inner door seal was the exact length, so proper positioning of the sticky back was very important.
Upon reassemly the leak still existed and I was unable to correct the leak. Further inspection indicated that the basic tub/body of the dishwasher might be slightly distorted due to age and may not create seal with door seal as originally designed.
I guess I need to find a new dishwasher, at this point.
A word to the wise: Check to see if the tub/body is still in good condition.

Observed the way gasket was installed including slight overhang on each side.
I simply pulled out the old gasket, starting at one end. I then wiped down the area with a dampened rag and pressed in the new gasket exactly the way the old one came out. It is important not to stretch it, just push it into place ending up with the same overhang on both sides.
Total time less than 5 minutes with no tools.

I suspected that the wax motor had gone bad based on reviews I had read. The repair requires a TORX bit to remove seven screws holding the plastic cover on the inside of the door. I sat in a chair with the door resting on my knees and took the screws out. Once open, the two wax motors are under the cover and easily accessible. You simply pull the wax motors out and detach two wire plugs. You should note how the wires are attached. The wire plugs were a little difficult to pull off but with a little effort they came straight off. Once new wax motors were installed, the soap dispenser opened.

I was also using a gel dishwasher detergent and was told that, for some reason, it might have begun to act like glue and this might also have prevented the soap dispenser from opening. I switched to powder and that did not solve the problem leading me to replace the wax motors. The soap dispenser spring seems a little weak so I have continued using powder.

Grinding Noise when running. I was not sure of problem and thought that a new Dishwasher may be needed if motor was the problem. After taking the bottom rack and spray arms out I came across my first problem. I believe it was the impeller design that has a 1in hex nut with a bolt in middle that needed to be removed. I needed a 90 degree 1in wrench to hold impleller while I removed Bolt. Luckly I have a friend that is a mechinist who made me a wrench.
After that the grinding cause was discovered - Broken glass that grinded the cermic shaft that is over motor shaft. I did not small drops of water under motor during grinding due to damaged cermic shaft.
$24 and 2 days later my dishwasher is as good as new. Sugguest you sell a 1in 90 degree hard plastic wrench for holding impeller which bolt is removed.
Thanks
PS. - Best part of your site is Parts detail which was very helpful for me to understand assembly.