DSS25KGRBWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Very easy repair to do. Read instruction sheet before starting! Unplug unit prior to removing panel cover.

Remove three hex head screws holding control panel cover in place and reveal the circuit board.

Remove all the wiring harnesses by gently pulling them from the sockets on the board. Do not pull the wires - make sure you pull on the plastic socket so that the wires aren't damaged. If plugs seem tight use needle nose pliers to gently wiggle them out. Remove earth (green) wire from spade connection on fridge chassis. The new board has a slightly different connection for the earth wire.(No spade connector - wire now has a ring connector that attaches between panel cover and fridge chassis using one of the hex head panel screws when the cover is replaced.

Using needle nose pliers locate four plastic mounting tabs holding the board in place and squeeze in the end of each tab whilst gently pulling the board off it. Repeat for all four tabs and remove old circuit board.

Making sure the new board is the right way round locate it on the plastic tabs and push gently until you hear the tabs click. Gently pull the circuit board to ensure it is locked in place.

Re-install all the wiring harnesses. Put a hex head screw through the cover panel and slip the earth wire ring over it and screw panel to chassis. Replace two remaining hex head screws and plug fridge back in.

Voila!! No more ticking sounds and a plentiful supply of ice and water!!

Noticed the problem in November 2009. Replaced Hi Limit Sesor for Defrost thinking it was the freezor temperature sensor. Did not fix the problem. Replaced Motherboard. Did not fix the problem. Called Sears Repair. They mis-diagnosed the problem and told me it was the sealed system. I doubted them and sent them home. Replaced the correct freezer temperature sensor that connects to the motherboard. FIXED.
Removed a panel, cut two wires, soldered and insulated two wries, reinstalled panel.

Pulled Ice bin out and emptied ice out of bin. Removed 4 screws holding bin to frame and seperate bin from frame. Takeoff or loosen dispenser arm that has 1 screw holding it. On the sides in the front I pushed tabs in and pulled up on front auger/chip assembly area using two screwdrivers to hold tabs in. Pulling assembly up took a little pressure by hiting down on main ice bin to disengage and watching to see that tabs were also disengaged at same time. After that it was take c-clip off loosen nut and disassemble. You might want to draw a diagram as to how everything was in place or take a picture with your camera phone to make it alot easier for you to remember how everything went. Remove and Replace parts and assemble in reverse.Once you start to do it you'll see how it goes so easy, hopefully I didn't miss to many steps but if I did You'll see what needs to be done to go to the next step.

First tried to fix old auger. Bad way to go. Spent $30 in parts and didn't work. Don't mess around. Order this whole thing, slide the old one out and the new one in and you're good to go. I wish I would have done this in the first place.

I popped out the old one and popped in the new one.

ice tray slides right out. 4 philips to remove the bottom, 1 to remove the arm that controls the mode (regular vs. crushed). It just slips into a hole on a wheel at the dispenser end - the same end has two tabs you push in and slide up/out the coil screw that rotates and drives ice out. Once one end is out, it slips out, replace the cup, reverse. This is the 2nd time I've ordered from PartsSelect, both times the part came in just a couple of days, easy navigation on the site, plenty of security validation, etc.

first replace the solenoid behind the front display. than replace the mother board on the back side of the fridge due to a relay being burned out on it.

GE Wanted $300 + to come out and do the repair.

With partsselect and a little time I cut that cost in half.

Thank you,

Mike

Actually this was a two part repair of which I purchased both parts. The micro switch Pt # PS296176 and also a double outlet water valve Pt # PS304374 from Parts Select as well.

The difficult part was accessing the area to get to the micro switch.

The trim had to be removed, then the cover.

Then one unplugs the board and removed the face plate which also contains the micro switch.

Once removed the two electrical terminals had to be disconnected, the micro switch installed and terminal reconnected.

Then reverse the removal procedure.

Then on to the double outlet replacement.

Suggest watching the installation video for the replacement although it was really a straight forward repair.

Two things to remember.

1. Unplug the fridge

2. Shut off the water to the dispenser

Overall it was not bad at all.

This was my first attempt at refrigerator repair and it went well.

Good luck on yours.

John

First, had to use punch tool to pop out electronic face panel. Face unit still connnect via wires. Use painters tape to hold against refrig. Next, Remove ice/water dispenser and also tape to door. This will give you access to solenoid. Remove the 3 screws holding it in place and unplug fsolenoid from Face Panel. Screw new solenoid and place and connnect to Panel. Goood idea is to unplug regrig. while doing this and put a little WD-30 on shaft of solenoid. May want to order new screws, could be rusty, that hold solenoid in place. Sounds a bit complicated but not that bad a job. You'll save over$100 over GE's service.

unscrewed old filter by hand, installed new filter.

On one severe winter cold night my fridge dispenser door stopped water supply, but ice maker was working. First I disconnected power supply to the fridge then turned off main water supply from the wall to fridge and with wrench set disconnected water supply pipe from wall to fridge while disconnecting the pipe make sure to collect the water from the both end pipes. Then removed the cardboard from the back side of the fridge. I disconnected the blue element (dispenser water) the red element (ice maker). [DOUBLE OUTLET WATER VALVE]. If you would try to pull the pipes white (dispenser water) and black (ice maker) you woudn't succeed because once the the white and black pipes are insereted into the water valve those pipes are clamped tightly in the valve. So I cut off those pipes and removed the old water valve, then I conncected the new water valve first conncected those white and blue elements and inserted the white and black pipes pushed in closed with round plactic caps comes with new one.I reconncected the main water supply pipes from wall to the frige and turned on the water supply from wall and plugged the power supply. First surpisingly I doubted it will work, actullay the water dispnser did'nt work immediately I have to wait 2 to 3 hours of time, in the mean time I checked the pipe connections from the bottom of the front left side door ( if you open the two doors bottom you can see the plastic cover it can be removed by pulling towards and pushing in you can close it back into normal position) which water supply pipe comes through the bottom of the door to water dispenser. I disconnected the connector and pusheed the dispensor several times to flushout any leaky water or air then I reconnected the pipes to the connector. I pushed the dispenser with a cup to dispenser, it started working as it is normally. While I was working my 7 years old son helped me as he always eager to learn and explore things.

After having replaced the main control board and three thermistors, the fridge was still having difficulting getting cold enough - it wouldn't get colder than 15F / 42 F. Uniform frost on the evaporator coil ruled out a sealed system leak, so the remaining culprits were the either the evaporator fan motor or the compressor.

I read that a failed control board is almost always the fault of a bad evaporator fan motor, so this item was the most likely suspect.

To get to the evaporator fan motor, I had to remove, in this order:

1) Icemaker
2) Auger motor and brackets
3) Icemaker bracket
4) Freezer lights and bulb sockets
5) Evaporator panel
6) Evaporator plenum cover
7) Evaporator fan motor bracket

The greatest difficulty lay in swapping the new fan motor harness. Two pins in the harness connector were used for the evaporator thermistor.

I had to carefully cut through the old connector (using a Dremel) to extract the crimped-on pins for the thermistor, then reuse them on the new connector.

The fridge is now maintaining -5 F / 35 F in the freezer / fresh food sections.

Called partselect and gave my model number for the frig. I wanted a filter plug because we did not need a frig filter. We have a whole house filter. They looked up the part, took my info, and sent it to me by UPS. It arrived fairly quickly and fit the frig perfectly. I screwed it into place immediately. It was the simplest order I have ever placed and the salesman was very pleasant and proficient. If I have more issues with my frig, I will call partselect again. Just remember to turn off the water before you start.

The repair is easy, just pop the grill off around the ice and water door, then there are 4 screwws to take out so the touch pad can be moved out of the way to unsnap the old door assm. and snap in the new one and wait about a year and a hald to order another one!!!!!

I still have not be able to replace the sensor as I've been unable to locate any info, or figure out where it is located. The water valve was easy to replace and took less than a half hour

After looking further into your website I found all the info, diagrams and instructions to replace the Temp Sensor, which was not too involved, thank you. Now to wait and see if this was the cause and my Refrigerator is up and running again