DP940PWPQ1 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Well, after I got the the dishwasher apart I realized the problem was not the wash impeller kit, it was the pump/ motor asembly. we deicided to replace the machine. the hardest part was holding the impeller from turning while removing the screw. there is a hex on top of the impeller you must hold in place but, if the machine is old, the hex is brittle,It will break as mine did. you will need to disconnect and take the washer from under the cabinet, and wedge a piece of wood into the motor to hold it. Then loosen the screw and inspect the components. 10 years old, it was more cost effective to replace the dishwasher. i emailed for a request authorization to return. partselect responded promptly with the autorization i needed to return the part. The service was good, and I would use partselect again.

Unplug the dishwasher. Simply removed 8 screws on the inside of the door, removed the interior door panel. Next popped of the plastic protective electrical panel cover. Locate the Thermal fuse that had simple instructions provided. Removed the fuse and replaced the harness. Put everything back together. Plugged dishwasher back into electrical outlet...Dishwasher resumed with the cycle that the dishwasher was in when the fuse blew. Simple, Fast AND Reliable!!!

Broken latch on dishwasher prevented operation
Door Latch Bolt PS11741367 replacement instruction.

There are no instructions known to mankind on this part, however I did manage said replacement through determination and beer. First I looked it up on the internet. All kind of results, except for the model I was working on. Called, very nice woman directed me to yet another YouTube presentation for another model. As this was no help, I chose to not call her back. Not her fault.
So, I did what every instruction for the other models called for, disconnect the power. Seemed like a good idea if everyone suggested it. After that, remove the inner door by removing the screws. At this point I would like to mention that I also ordered and paid for what I thought would be a set of inner door screws to replace the old and weathered ones. However, they sent me one screw.
Who in their right mind would pay $5.10 for ONE SCREW? Well, your looking right at him. I felt like I sold the family cow for a magic bean, but that’s another story.
So, without instructions, I compared the part I ordered with the one installed in the door. It matched up in many ways, with exception for the fact I would not budge from it’s position, wiggle yes, remove no. I stared at it for 10 minutes with no further progress. Something has to give. I decided to remove the cover of the electronics with the hopes and optimism of a child. It also did not want to be removed. Back to YouTube and the computer. Nothing. I stared at it for another 10 minutes. Drank a beer, and started to “horse” it off, somehow it became ajar, and was finally removed. Upon examination of the old door latch bolt, I noticed that it was attached to the electronic mass by 4 wires. I used my phone camera to record which went where with false hopes that the repair was in reach. It was either me or the dishwasher. At this point, good money was on the dishwasher.
After recording and removal of said wires, I took the entire door latch and whatever the other piece was, to a table for further study, and another beer. After said study and beer, I remembered looking at other parts, one came to mind, a small teflon rod. As I look upon the part I knew about, I noticed it was adhering to the alien part with wires by 2 small teflon rods. I found a small nail, and pushed them out of the part, and they final separated. I replaced the old part with the new one and then reversed all steps and procedures, attached wires, reattached electronic cover, screwed down the inner door, shut main door, and started a dish cycle. Works perfectly. You may ask about the expensive screw. I took it to a local jeweler, who found nothing remarkable about it. As there must be SOMETHING about it that makes it valuable, so I had it mounted and framed in a nice display case for friends and family to treasure for years to come. A real conversation piece, and one more thing to dust.

Need needle nose pliers to remove the keepers in the end stops on basket rails. Basket must be removed to get to the spinner assimbley.
The upper rinse spinner is held in place by a stainless steal bracket. NO SCREWS!
1. You push the spinner assembly up and push it to the back of the machine.
2. Then you pull the spinner assembly down to clear the bracket and then pull it to the front of the machine.
3. To replace it just reverse the procedure.
Used part # 3379329.

Louis at ljsengele@att.net

I shut off the power to the dishwasher, then I removed the front panel under the door. On the right side just behind the electrical box there are two wires going up to the hi-limit thermostat, (you may need a small mirror to see it), remove one screw that is holding the thermostat bracket, unplug the wires from the old thermostat and install new one. Screw bracket and thermostat back to the underside of the dishwasher, reinstall the front panel, turn on the power, done.

I ordered the part and it fit perfectly!! About five minutes to screw it onto my faucet and problem solved!!!

There were eight of the star head screws to remove to take the front off the dishwasher, then just followed the instructions that came with the part, which was a thermal fuse and the new wiring that accompanied the fuse in the order. The hardest part was getting the old wire out of the harness with the other three, but once I figured that out just slid the new wire into place and made the connections. I reinserted the screws, turned the power on and knock on wood shes still working.

I removed all the cabinet screws (be careful, they use a special star bit and mine broke so I replaced all the screws with hex head sheet metal screws which was OK).
I then removed the top-very easy, 3 screws.
Disconnected two hoses at bottom of machine, one with a clamp that needed to be unscrewed the other was standard hose attachment. Put a shallow pan under the hose area where you will be removing them. There will be some water. Remove the hose assembly from the special plastic holder on the inside of the cabinet and remove the assembly from the entry point at the rear of the cabinet. Insert the new hose assembly, connecting the hoses first.
Check the old hose to determine roughly where it had been bracketed to the cabinet making sure you will have enough hose to reach your faucet. I left no slack inside the machine beyond the plastic holder. Reassemble the cabinet to the frame loosely screwing it in until all screws are in. The finish tightening them all. Reinstall the top.
Unscrew the old faucet connector and screw in the new one until fully hand tight. If you use a pair of pliers to tighten it more, protect it from the tool buy using a cloth of plastic jar cover remover to prevent damage. Connect the machine to the faucet, plug it in and let her rip. Mine was leak-less but NOTE- I connected it and tested it before re-assembling the cabinet, Otherwise you won't know if your connections were tight until its too late.

I disasembled the inner door and replaced the door switches with new ones.

Took me a while to figure out that the bottom plastic strip is all that holds in the panel. Once it is removed , it pulls out easily When the new panel arrived,just slide it up into the top grooove, and push the bottom strip back into its groove. The front looks like new!

I removed inner face of door, cut wires leading to door switches, and then installed the new door switches and wire harness.

I removed the rubber boot on the top of the water dispersal unit ( stainless steel wand ) by turning it counterclockwise and the wand came off with ease. I then removed the top unit under it by removing the 8 torx screws and removed it. Under the unit is a cover with 1 torx screw to be removed and removed the cover to access the unit. I was unable to loosen the 1/4" nut on the shaft as it was very tight so I had to remove the unit and lock the motor armature with a piece of wood and removed the bolt. Using the kit I purchased I installed the new parts as required and it works as good as new.

The whole problem started with the upper vent on the door being plugged up with a whole bunch of labels that had been washed off of a bunch of tin cans that were washed prior to recycling them. Te high water float was also gummed up for the same reason and overflowed on the floor, I pulled it up and out and cleaned it up also, it works as good as new.

My wife noted wood floor bucking up around dishwasher - pulled dishwasher out from counter, tipped it on it's side, looked underneath, & noted slight corrosion on top of motor -

Took motor/pump assembly completely off of dishwasher (comes out from the bottom) by flipping four little plastic cams on motor to the side & then took pump apart (starting at top & working down) till I got to the impeller/motor shaft seal.

Found plastic impeller worn through into two pieces & little spring thingy under the grinder-upper thingy broken.

Ordered Drain & Wash Impeller kit - got it a few days later - installed (new motor shaft seal didn't seem to be quite the same as far as fit, so I didn't use it - just used the impeller & new spring thingy)

Put it all back together & runs fine - no more leaks - (now just have to figure out what to do about warped wood flooring - oh well, it's old & is probably time for whole new kitchen floor anyway)

Note: This particular Kenmore model made by Whirlpool - takes Whirlpool parts.

Note 2: Needed only screwdrivers to do this whole thing - would have been a really quick/easy repair if I had known what the problem was & how it all comes apart. took a little time to figure it out. (I am a rank amateur at dishwasher repair)

Look at the exploded parts diagram, that parts select provides on their website.

You have to take off the nine star pointed screws. So you need a special screwdriver or I had a socket set of them and I used a ratchet to make it easier. I think there are nine of them around the base of the door. Then remove the door and set it on the counter. Flip it over and there is a small plastic cover that has to be removed from the back of it, and it is easily removed by gently pulling on it.

Now comes the difficult part. There is a locking piece on it that holds the latch onto the door by interlocking with a piece on the back side of the door. I took a pair of wire snips and just cut the old interlocking piece off. This way I didn't have to try and slide the two interlocking pieces apart.

When you go to put the new piece on before you interlock them make sure they are put on right. Specifically the latch is pointing the right way to seal the detergent door. Otherwise it can be a pain to separate the interlocking pieces again. (which is why I cut it off the old one).

Then you're done. Just put it all back together.