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Start Switch stick (plastic thing that pops out) was broken
Removed 6 screws from the back panel and lifted/pushed the metal back panel up. Removed/sliced out the start switch by hand. Replace the new start switch and tightened all screws. Replaced the new selector Knob and it worked like charm.
The plastic door handle on the dryer broke and came off.
I received the replacement part I ordered from PartSelect.com within 3 days of placing the order. I opened the plastic bag it came in. I snapped the part into the holes left vacant by aforementioned abscence of broken part.
1st - removed the two screws inside the front door panel. They are somewhat hidden up underneath so you may have to look for them. 2nd - I removed the top of the dryer cabinet by lifting it out of the clips holding it in place. 3rd - removed the two screws (one on each side) in the o=uppper corner of where the side panels connect the front panel. These are about 3/4" phillips head screws. Then the front panel could be moved to one side of the dry. 4th - remove the drum by lifting it up and out the open top area. 5th - add the new belt to the dryer tub (rib side towards the drum) and replace dryer tub to its original position. 6th - reaching in underneath the tub you need to pull the ideler pulley toward the center of the cabinet while laying the belt on the "outer side" of the ideler pulley and at the same time fitting the belt over the small pulley located on the motor. Once that is done, you reassemble in reverse order and should be good to go.
Used an allen wrench to remove the heat deflector and used allen wrench to replace it with the new one. HINT!! Do not lean on the inside of the dryer!!!!!!
I was cleaning my laundry room when I noticed the gasket needed cleaning. While wiping it off it appeared as though I could remove it and that was my biggest mistake. Once removed it could not be replaced, due to the little parts that held it to the door began tearing off as I tried to put it back on. I ordered a new gasket and had it put on. It did not require any tools, just concentration. I've learned "if it's not broken, don't fix it"! I spoke with several other people and I am the only one who has removed a gasket. Thank you very much PartSelect for your help.
Both parts arrived quickly and were exactly what I ordered. The lint screen replacement part was of higher quality and it works better than the one that came with the dryer. Very satisfied.
I followed the instruction of the first posting for this category and it worked perfectly...thanks for the nice detail...
- Upon receipt from PartSelect, placed new slides in Drum Bearing (this does not come together or as a kit - must order 4 slides AND Bearing separately for this dryer model) - Loosened Top panel screws (2) from inside door area - Slid top of dryer off - PAY attention to HOW the top comes out (tabs at the back and slots on the sides) or replacing the top could prove frustrating) - Loosened Front panel screws (2) and GENTLY leaned the panel forward to access Drum Bearing - no need to REMOVE the front panel but be aware of the switch wires when leaning and the weight of the door if you did not remove that - Removed old Drum Bearing - Vacuumend interior of dryer cabinet (especially area leading down to vent) - Snapped new Drum Bearing into place - Re-secured Front panel paying attention to drum position to make sure everything still rotated properly and freely - Reset Top panel - align back tabs first, gently pull forward just a bit until Top slips down over side tabs, then slide back into place and re-secure
Just followed the installation video. The only issue with the video was that a phillips screwdriver was specified and I actually needed a torx screwdriver.
took two screws off the front. They were behind the door. These screws held the top on. Lifted top off and took two screws from the frame holding the front door and panel on. Disconnected three wires and removed front panel. Laid dryer over on right side and removed four screws from bottom and back,two from control panel and removed left side.lifted drum out and removed belt. Removed nut cap and idler pulley wheel. Replaced same. removed three screws holding screen and rear drum bearing to drum. Replaced same. Removed electric heat coils from back and removed receiver for rear drum bearing. Replaced same. Put everything back in reverse order. Works better than new!!
First remove top cabinet panel by removing two small screws under door recess; then swing up lid and remove from hinged area at the rear. Once top panel is removed, remove the front panel and door assembly by removing two attach screws securing front panel to dryer cabinet. Swing the front panel down and remove from two base hinge points. Slightly lift the front of the dryer drum and wedge some rolled up newspaper between drum and frame to provide access to get your hands through to the idler pulley and motor area. Remove the belt form the motor & idler pulley; then slide the drum out of the cabinet to gain access to the idler pulley. Remove nut securing idler pulley from bracket and remove and replace with new part. Reverse the process to complete the installation.
The repair, from the time that the bulb burned out until it was replaced took about six months. I could have shortened the time if I had ordered the bulb sooner. It was difficult because I had to listen to a fair amount of nagging, which, thankfully, has now ceased. I also had to actually go online and finI opened the dryer door, reached in with my right hand (which happened to be holding the new bulb) and screwed the new bulb in. Tip: Screw it in counter-clock wise. This was not mentioned in the instructions. Come to think of it, no instructions were provided. The company might wish to correct that oversight.