DFE28JSKCSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I went to a GE repair center to explain my problem, the service center reccomended that I have a techinician come out o look at it. $75.00 for the visit and what ever labor and materials wuld cost.

I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.

After reading some of the ways that people found out what was wrong ...it became a matter of three components, the timer, heater or thermostat.

I tried the most common component and the less expensive one first , the thermostat switch I installed it very easily snipping two wires and attaching the news using wire nuts I used the diagram on this website to pinpoint the component and there has not been a problem since.

I removed the old temperature sensor by cutting the wires. I attached the wires of the new sensor with wire nuts and mounted it in the same bracket.

went to your website and viewed exploded view to find the sensor( there are two I just picked one to replace for now), pried the cover off carfully and pulled out the sensor. I snipped the wire in the middle leaving plenty to work with. I shortened the wire on the new piece, spliced the wires together and with some 3M rubberized, tape wrapped them up, replaced the sensor back into the cover and snapped in place.

put fridge into test mode, failed One sensor. Took it out, Tested it, Ordered part also picked up splice kit from electric store spliced it truned on and good to go

Took panel off back of inside of freezer section, took off old sensor from the evaporator, spliced new sensor into the existing wires, waterproofed spliced connections, snapped sensor back onto evaporator, then put panel back on the inside of the freezer. Really, it took only 10 minutes to fix. Now refrigerator defrosts like it used to, and temps have settled in at specified temps.

Noticed the problem in November 2009. Replaced Hi Limit Sesor for Defrost thinking it was the freezor temperature sensor. Did not fix the problem. Replaced Motherboard. Did not fix the problem. Called Sears Repair. They mis-diagnosed the problem and told me it was the sealed system. I doubted them and sent them home. Replaced the correct freezer temperature sensor that connects to the motherboard. FIXED.
Removed a panel, cut two wires, soldered and insulated two wries, reinstalled panel.

No self defrost. Measured heater coil with ohm meter which was OK (not open). Ordered 2 temp sensors (there are 2 in freezer, 2 in fresh food sections). The original and the new all meaured ~150 ohms. Replaced one by one. This did not fix problem. Ordered defrost thermostat. Original measured ~150 ohms - new one was ~100 ohms. Unpluged refridgerator. Removed coil panel (4 nut screws) in freezer and light cover (1 small phillips screw). Locate defrost thermostat clipped to top of coils (orange / pink wires). Cut wires and unclipped thermostat. Stripped insulation off of wires and reconnect using wire nuts. Clipped thermostat back to coils. Ran refridgerator without panel on coils to see if coils frosted up again and listend for fans/compressor to stop ( took hours). Opened freezer and viewed glow of defrost heater. Problem resolved.

removed frig bottom long drawer, removed the 2 narrower drawers above that. removed 2 plastic plates above the long drawer and unplugged pigtail. removed lower drawer slides and the back coil cover. removed small shroud that contained the fan pigtail and then removed the fan and replaced with the new one. fixed cooling issue and took 10 minutes from start to finish.

Took out the old parts and replaced it with the new parts. The new OVERLOAD PTCR COMBO was different then the one that we replaced so we called customer service and they told us which wire to insert into each of the 2 slots and it is working like new again. Outstanding and knowledgeable customer service.

Simple repair, rolled refrigerator out, disconnected power, removed 4 screws holding door board, disconnected wire harness, replaced board on bench, returned to refrigerator, plugged in wire harnessing, replaced screws, plugged in, waited about 5 min. Tried door water dispense and it worked. Took a while for ice make to get up to speed, but it also works great.
After have a tech come out to look at, and he said it was freezing inside the door and needed a new door for right at $1,000.00, and nothing seem to indicate that as the problem. We took it on ourselves to try Partselect, ordered several extra parts, but only used the door board, returns went easy and i was refunded my money before I even sent the parts back. Great Service

REMOVE LOWER DRAWERS, SHELF AND BACK EVAPORATOR COVER AND REPLACE SIEZED EVAPORATOR BLOWER MOTOR.

It was super easy! The glass came packaged and safe. Once I unwrapped it, I slid it in the firdge and it just popped into place. So super easy. And now we know for next time when taking it out to clean, (the reason it shattered in the first place) you should let the glass get to room tempurature before cleaning it with water or it will shatter! OOPS!

Search online and came across PARTSELECT website!!! this is amazing when I opened the website and see a labeled drawing, so I know what part number to order, it arrived on time and when I install it fits very well, one lesson I've learned is whenever you removed this glass in the chiller box you have to reinstall the glass properly by inserting one of the side to the insert slide of the chiller so it will not move! I'M VERY HAPPY!!!! THANKS!!!

Instructions say run capacitor is by motor, but on this frige its in the refrigerator compartment. The capacitors looks different, one square and the other long

Received replacement part. There is a cover over the ice box latch. Pried it off with a screwdriver head. Took the broken latch off replaced new latch to cover and replaced on the door.