DE8420 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

First I unplugged the dryer. Then I removed the two phillips head sheet metal screws near the bottom of the front panel at either side, swung the panel out from the bottom until it unhinged at the top for removal. I disconnected the wire to the door switch and placed the front panel out of the way. Next I unbolted the top from the side panels by removing the single bolt at the front top of each side panel. This allows the Top panel of the dryer to be raised enough to remove the drum. I slipped the drive belt off the back of the drum, lifted the top a few inches and removed the drum. Next I removed the face plate of the blower channel to get at the squirrel cage blower and disconnect it from the motor by removing the outer snap ring from the motor shaft and then used pliers to remove the spring clip from the hub of the blower cage allowing it to slide off the shaft. There was a second snap ring to remove behind the hub. With the blower off the 3 screws holding the blower channel to the motor mount were accessable and able to be removed along with a couple of scews holding the air channel to the dryer base allowing the whole assembly to be moved out of the way to get at the motor. Two more screws at the motor base were removed to free the motor. Three color coded wires were unclipped from the motor and it was out after removing the drive belt from the pulley. Getting the pulley off the old motor after 29 years of service proved to be the most difficult part of the repair. Had to heat the pulley with a propane torch until the glue holding the allen head set screw decomposed enough to allow me to break the set screw loose. Releasing the spring clips holding motor to frame was easy using a large screwdriver to push down in the end recess of the clip while prying against the frame. Reassembly took less than an hour. The color coded dots on the electrical connector block were identical to the original motor making the electrical reconnection a snap (These dots were clearly seen in the photos of motor on the PartSelect website so I knew I had the right motor). The drive belt reinstallation was a little tricky as you have to spool the belt correctly around the pulley then put the drum back in 3/4 of the way and start the belt on the back of the drum and work it forward about 5 inches to its running position. Rest was easy, no parts left over and it works like new again.

Frist I removed the front cover panel via removing 2 screws. Second I disconnected the door switch wires. Third I removed the 4 screws that hold the drum onto the rollers and guides that allows access to the blower wheel assembly cover. Fourth I remover the blower wheel assembly cover to gain access to the blower wheel. Fifth using the retaining removal tool removed the retaining ring from the shaft then removed the blower wheel using plyers. Then reassembled all of the parts and enjoy a quiet dryer again.

Thank you parts select!!!

Piece of cake. Used flat screwdriver to pry out female part on cabinet side, same with the male part on door. Every new replacement part was tight and operated like new. Thanks Part Select, you'll be forever on my list of online parts buying.

I troubleshot the repair using the repair help section from Parts Select. It made finding the problem a snap. I then removed the four wires and two screws that held the heating element in place. Removed two screws that held thermal fuse in place and replaced. By accomplishing the repair myself I saved well over a hundred dollars.

Had replaced the heater element a few week earlier under the thought that it had failed just because the dryer was old. But shortly after replacing the element the dyrer started making a lot of noise when started. A few dryer loads later the hearte element had faild again.
The design of the Maytag Dryer makes most repairs easy. The machine is very well made.
Since I was investigate the noise that the dyrer was making, I did a complete teardown of the dryer to check things out. Fould that the drum drive belt was old and the blower fan had spun off the locking tab and also that the heater element was burned out. again. Did a complete check of all moving parts and orded the parts that needed to be replaced. Did a clean up of all old lint in the dryer vent system and fan unit. The fan and belt parts were easy to replace. The heater element does take time and care when working with the ceramic holders. But since I had done it before I did not find any surprised.
The dryer works like new now. Just hope none of the sensors or ideler wheels give out.

How to disassemble the dryer has been covered in past repair stories. I will add a make shift repair that will get you up and running until you get your replacement blower wheel. We repair gas dryers for a living and this repair works and some machines are still running for two years. Remove the blower wheel. Cut a piece of plumber strap of similar sized metal to about 3/16" x 1/2". Hold it with vise grips and then heat it with a torch. When it is hot melt it into the hole in the blower wheel. This will give you a flat spot in the shaft hole that will keep the blower from spinning on the motor shaft. Some trial and error fitting is involved. If you do it carefully the blower wheel will fit very nicely and will not vibrate or make noise.

Googled Maytag dryer troubleshooting and arrived at partselect.com. Using their site, I was able to learn more about how my dryer operated, was configured and how to remove the front panel. I then removed front panel. Tested fuses and thermostats. All were good. Visually inspected heater element. No apparent break in heater coils. I ultimately removed the heater assembly to get a better view of the heater element and then noticed the break in the heater element. Once I saw that it was obvious where my problem was. I then ordered the part, installed it and tested it and it appeared to work fine. My wife tells me it works great and she is impressed. FYI - I don't know much about dryers except that it drys my clothes. Thank you partselect.com!

First I removed the two screws near the bottom of the front panel. Then I removed the front panel by rotating it outwards. Next I removed the front frame section by removing the four screws. The tumbler rests on this frame piece so remove it carefully and it will stay put - no need to take it out. The grinding noise I was hearing was the tumbler (drum) running on the frame - the glides (bearings) were worn out. This had generated piles of metal powder which I vaccumed up. It was easy to locate the reason there was no heat - the thermostat was burned to a crisp. It torched part of the blower seal in the process. The reason the thermostat fails in this manner is the lint duct gets clogged up increasing the duty cycle of the heater which fries the thermostat. I had to strip back the red wire and install a new blade connector but the thermostat just bolts on easy enough. You'll need a rivet gun to replace the glides. Drill out the old rivets and pull them out with some pliers. Easy enough to do and it runs like new! Good luck.

The repair was very simple. I took off the two screws on the fron of the dryer to remove the front panel which gained me access to the drum. I used a nut driver to remove the two screws that held the orignal short baffle and screwed in the new short baffle. Very simple very quick. The amazing thing with this problem is that I ordered the part on Thursday and recieved it on the very next day!!!!!!

I first unpluged the dryer, then I removed the front cover of the dryer. The Heating unit in located in the lower right side of the machine. I unscrewed the heating "tube" from the dryer and unpluged it from the dryer. ( good idea to mark the wires because they are same color.) I unscrewed the two halves of the heating unit and saw that indeed the heating coil was broken. I unscrewed the coil and fed it through the insulators. The coil was old and uncooperative, so I decided to cut it at each insulator with wire cutters. This sped up the process and protected the insulators. I carefully fed the new coils through the insulators and attached the ends to the terminals. Be careful not to over tighten or you may break the insulation on the terminals. I reinstalled the heating unit and attached the wires and tested the dryer. Job Done! Thanks Parts Select!

ordered new filter,,,,

This was pretty much as easy as most other folks had described on this site.
1. Removed the two screws at the front bottom that are holding on the fromt panel, and then lift up and remove the panel.
2. Disconnect the door-open-safety-switch, remembering which color of wire goes on which connection.
3. Remove the four screws (two on each side) on the front bracket that supports the drum and tthat contains the front glides.
4. Remove support bracket and lint trap, letting the drum rest gently on the stuff underneath.
5. Remove the screws holding the lint trap to the support bracket. (My model had five screws.) Remove lint trap from support bracket.
6. Drill out the two pop rivets on each of the two glides, noting the orientation of the teflon pad and mounting strip.
7. Secure - and here is where I had a little problem - new glides in place with pop rivets. (I hadn't use a rivet gun in a while, so I messed up the first pop rivet and had to go to the hardware store to get a replacement. I didn't hold the pop rivet in all the way while I was accuating the gun!)
8. Reverse the process for assembly, and you are all done.

It's simple.

I set the dryer on its back to make alignment of the front drum guide cover easy to reinstall in the seal after completion. I removed the 2 screws at the bottom front then removed the white and yellow wires to the interlock switch and set the front cover aside. I then removed the 4 nut screws holding the front drum cover and removed. On the back side there are two teflon and cork "bearings". I had ordered two even though only one was worn down to metal. On each one I then removed the two rivets by drilling them out. Then I placed the corks into the bearing slots with a little glue then inserted the teflon into the slots and riveted them into place with the rivets that came with the kit. I replaced the drum cover, connected the switch and screwed the dryer front cover back on. I set the dryer back up. Connected the vent hose and turned the dryer on. Beautiful sweet smooth and quiet operation. I had replaced the front and back drum seals a few months ago and saw the teflon was missing but did not have the kits at that time. With a complete job I would recommend replacing the front and rear drum seals and the two teflon/cork bearing kits at the same time.

Old latch and door striker were pried out with a flat blade screwdriver. New components popped right in. Repair was less than two minutes.

Followed advice from here; unplugged machine from power source, removed two phillips head screws located just out of sight below the little indentaion on the front panel, removed front panel & set aside the machine. Unclipping the door switch wires allowed for enough slack so that they didn't need to be disconnected. Unscrewed (or un-hooked, don't remember) the lint box, pulled the drum out slightly, removed the belt, pulled drum out all the way & set aside. Removed the snap rings & wahsers from the idler wheels, removed wheels, put a light coating ot synthetic grease on the shafts & in the idler bushings, re-installed idlers, washers, & snap rings. Re-assembled in reverse order of assembly with alittle difficulty iin getting the new belt in the proper configuration. Removed small access panel in rear of machine to assist in installng the belt finally realizing that the belt DOES NOT go in the indented area of the drum, but on the larger diameter of the drum itself. Tested by rotating by hand, re-assembled front cover, plugged it in & dried the laundry......QUIETLY!