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Dryer would not heat up
As many of the other posts here on this website mentioned, I had the same problem of the dryer not heating up. I removed the front panel (4 screws on each side inside of door - easy - followed instructions) and once off I was able to view the igniter glowing properly so I knew the starter/igniter was not the issue. Everything I read then suggested that it must be the two terminal gas valve coil, and sure enough it was. Ordered part -- got it in literally a couple days -- removed bracket (two screws) put in new coil -- turned it on -- works great. Could not have been easier. This is a great website and would recommend it to everyone who is a Do It Yourselfer.
My dryer was making a really loud, high pitched squeak and eventually a grinding noise
I order the parts needed to replace the slides, the felt ,and the bearing on a Sunday afternoon. The parts arrived on Tuesday even though I used regular shipping. I followed the instructions posted by another customer. It was extremely easy and only took me about fifteen minutes. My only problem was that I needed 2 each of the front slide and the rear slide, and I unknowingly only ordered 1 of each. I order the other 2 on Tuesday via regular shipping and they arrived on Wed. AMAZING!!!!
Unplugged power. removed 2 screws to take of top cover. once inside removed 2 more screws to slide front panel of. I first replaced slides on front panel. I then lift drum and installed new belt. Only trick is to make sure you wrap belt around tension arm pully properly. Basically a very easy job
i read some of previous customer problems and fixes pulled the front cover off found coil's location when i turned on drier you could see the ignitor getv hot but burner would not ignite unless i put a little pressure on secondary coil when i let go of coil flame would go out. ordered 'M' series new style coil kit came in in about three days installed parts drier workng good i would reuse parts select agian thanks
Key starting point is to remove top cover by removing two long screws located at the front of the cover Remove control panel and it's bottom and side supports. Remove short vent pipe by bending retainer tab. Support the drum at the top using piece of rope. Remove main rear cover (leave bottom attached). Remove electric heating unit and install new bearing carrier from kit. Reinstall the the heating unit Remove three screws (inside the drum)to release the inner drum cover and release the bearing carrier. Install new bearing carrier. Note: the three holes in the bearing carrier are not tapped, I suggest that the screws be installed (threads cut) into the bearing cover before attempting to install the bearing carrier. Install the new bearing carrier. Note: pilot one of the holes using a small nail etc. then go on to install screws in the other two holes remove the pilot device and install the third screw. Reassemble in reverse order.
I removed the top cover and the back cover to install new belt. Once i put new belt i discovered that the pulley was also broken so now i have order the pulley so that i can complete the repair
The instructions that came with the bearing were limited and the illustrations were too dark to see. However, after reading the reports of others on this website, the repair was very easy.
Prior to disassembly, remove theaccess panel on the rear of the dryer. Pull the belt drive pulley arm up and the belt will easily slide off of the motor pulley. The belt can be left on the drum.
Then, remove two screws at the inside top of the dryer door. The top of the dryer will then lift up at the front and slide forward to remove. This will allow you access to two bolt head screws on each side of the front panel. Remove these two screws and then lift the panel slightly up and forward. The front panel will then be free and the dryer drum will slide forward and out. Remove the four bolt head screws (behind the electric elements) from the heater element on the inside back of the dryer box.
You can now exchange the bearing on the drum and the bearing insert on the dryer heating element simply by removing the old and reinstalling the new just as the old was removed - four screws for each.
You will need an assistant to re-install the bearing. Someone needs to hold the three pieces behind the drum as you insert the three screws. You'll also need a star wrench set for this.
The drum is easily reinserted - just be careful to get the front of the drum placed into the front bearing surface when reinstalling the front panel. One word of caution, My wife tried to remove the felt bearing on the bottom of the front panel thinking that it was lint.
I found that the inside of my ten year old dryer was unbelievably full of lint. I'm sure that the efficiency improvements by cleaning the air passages will be substantial and I've just saved $400 on the price of a similar dryer ($900 if my wife and I decided to upgrade to the "new" model that we wanted but really didn't need.
Gas dryer would produce heat for short time, then continue to run but with no heat.
Thanks to reports from others, I concluded that most likely the gas ignition coils (one or both) were no longer functioning properly. I replaced both with the 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit which is about 1/2 the price of either coil individually -- yes,true,go figure! The actual replacement took only about 10 minutes. What was most difficult and took the most time was the removal of the front panel of the cabinet -- this was difficult only because there were no instructions in my owner's manual (or any other source I could find) and it took me awhile to figure it out. Now I could do the whole job in about 20 minutes! The detailed instructions from others as to the process of replacing the coils was invaluable -- I don't know if I would have been able to figure that out on my own. But most important was the information that enabled me to diagnose the problem in the first place. Thank you, all you previous comment contributors.
First I watched the repair video on partselect.com and that really helped. It was really easy to replace the slides. I even ordered a new top bearing, old one was busted, and replaced it. Thank you for your help.
Squeaking noise that got gradually louder every day. And clothes getting stuck in the drum for months.
I asked my husband to repair it and he said call a repairman. I went online a read stories from others on how easy it was so I ordered the parts myself and did the repair. I strictly followed the video instructions. They were excellent! I also took the time to clean lint from the door and lint trap which i would not have done if a repairman had come to do the work. I now have the confidence to do the rear bearings if they go out!
Removed the star bit screws on the top of the control panel then removed the front by opening the door and removing the screws in the upper corners of the door jam. I then removed the top which exposed the drum slides. NOTE: This model requires 4 drum slides and NOT two as specified in the video.
I used the PartSelect website to diagnose the problem (three of the four drum bearing slides were completely gone, and the top bearing was very worn), and then used the video instructions on the site to discover that I could most likely do these repairs myself, though I’m not especially handy. The repairs were actually quite easy — I removed the top cover, disconnected the control panel, and removed the front door assembly, then replaced the top bearing and the duct felt seal. I then inserted the new bearing slides into the top bearing, re-attached the front door assembly, re-attached the control panel and top cover, and was done! It works like new! It took me 2 days to receive the parts with normal shipping (ordered Wednesday, received Friday), and it took less than an hour to complete all the repairs, including cleaning the door assembly, vents, etc. Based on estimates I received from local repair services, I saved at least $300.00. Well worth an hour of my time! Great site, service, and instructions!
Dryer was shutting off too early, before clothes could dry
Replaced High limit thermostat per video on the website. However, the flange of new thermostat is flat, while chassis it mounts on is round to conform to drum of dryer. So new thermostat was not flush with chassis. Dryer did not shut off early (that problem solved), but instead continued to dry clothes beyond time necessary. Note that old thermostat had one side of flange slightly bent and probably more flush with chassis, and better able to sense when hot temperatures were reached. I dismantled dryer again, slightly bent new flange, re-installed. Seems to work better now .
