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Deflector was covered in burnt something.
Deflector has 3 bolts attaching it. They require a star wrench. Had to purchase same to do the repair. Removed the bolts(they are sheet metal type screws(bolts). Installed the deflector and started dryer. Loud rubbing sound noted. Shut off and checked the drum and noted it was not running concentrically. Removed deflector and the found the 3 screws actually retained the drum to drive. Had to make alignment pins to allow proper alignment of the drive, drum, and deflector. Once the pins were used during installation of the deflector everything worked correctly. Turned on dryer and it operated normally. Had I had the proper tools the repair would probably have taken 30 minutes or less.
Someone I'm related to by marriage accidentally dried a plastic-coated tablecloth on high heat, and our heat deflector was hosed. I was very happy to find this part here for such a reasonable price; Sears wanted about $65 for it. Installation required a Torx bit, and removing the old one was easy, but the dryer's design made it difficult to reinstall the heat deflector while keeping the dryer running concentrically. I ended up cutting the heads off three screws, threading those into the plate behind the drum, sliding the new heat deflector on over those, and then one by one replacing them with the original Torx head screws. Once I figured it out it didn't take long but it took me a while to figure it out. That's probably more a reflection on me than the dryer!
Remove the two screws holding the top down. Disconnect two wires from door switch. Remove the two hex screws holding the front on. Remove the 4 screws holding the access panel on the back and disengage idler pulley to loosen the belt. Remove the drum. Label the wires then remove the heating element. Check orientation of ground strap before disassembling rear bearing. Remove four screws holding rear bearing to back of heating element. Install rear bearing and ground strap on to heating element. Reinstall heating element. Reconnect wires.
Most Important : Get help putting parts back on drum! I didn't and that's why it took over 2 hours. I will describe how I did it.
Unscrew bearing from inside of drum. Wrap screwdriver with tape to a little larger than the screw hole. Use small screwdriver to line up the drum, shim and deflector. Don't forget the brass shim. It wasn't on the parts diagram. Start two screws don't tighten them yet. Remove Screwdriver and start third screw. Tighten all three down. Put belt on drum. Install drum and belt. Reverse disassembly. When putting the front on make sure drum rests in the felt.
I rated this a bit difficult because I did it myself. With help this is a fairly easy repair.
Horrible screeching noise when the dryer drum was in motion, cracked pieces were tangling and ripping the drying clothes.
I removed the top of the dryer (unscrewed from the inside to release the top). Removed interior screws to pull open the front of the dryer. Once inside, it was really visible that the old parts (front air duct top and bottom) were in bad shape. They were cracked and broken. I removed the old pieces (they pretty much cracked and crumbled right off). I snapped in the new pieces careful to avoid damaging the electrical connections and wires. Once snapped into place (top and bottom), I careful put the front back into place making sure that the dryer drum rested on the new pieces. All screws back in place and all done! Dryer is now working as new!!!
I removed the door and "flipped" it to open right to left. Rather than remove the existing door latch I added the purchased latch on the right side to enable opening the door right to left or left to right.
Dryer developed a progressively noisy squeak over several months
I followed the directions that were listed on this site by other Do It Yourself individuals...by the way I'm a lady and more mechanically inclined than my husband, but he was a great help in lifting the drum up and out. (I unplugged the dryer before starting repairs) 1. I removed the two screws located at the top of the dryer inside the door. 2. Top of dryer cabinet lifted up after screws were removed. 3. Located and removed front panel retension screws and removed front panel and set aside 4. slipped belt off motor by reducing tension on idler pully 5. Removed screws inside drum that secured drum to bearing assembly 6. Husband and I lifted drum up and out of cabinet (this went very smoothly and took less than 15 minutes time. 7. Followed supplied bearing drum instructions and removed old bearing and installed new assembly. 8. Thoroughly cleaned out internal cabinet, blower, and motor areas 9. Reset the idler pully into proper position. 10. Tipped dryer on 'back' to reseat the drum With A NEW DRYER BELT (taped temporarily around the drum) into the bearing shaft (I may not be using the proper terms) 11. tipped dryer upright and while Hubby balanced the drum, the front panel was resecured to the rest of the cabinet. 12. Removed temporarily applied tape that held the drum belt in the general position, then using the rear access panel, I slipped the belt over the motor into the proper posisiton. 13. Top cabinet was reapplied and screwed into place. 14 Plugged in and tested the dryer...NO SQUEAKS and it works beautifully and quietly!!
The job is not terribly difficult, but I am only 5 feet tall and the drum is bulky to work with and balance. Reaching into the cabinet to slip the belt onto the motor stretched my arm to the limit. I found the cabinet reassembly and realignment of the screw holes quite annoying. But the total job proved satisfying upon completion.
Pulled out the remnants of the old latch out with the pliers and then popped the new one in...less than 2 minutes. Oh, and the part was delivered in less than 2 days. Great job, Partselect !
Faint Squeek after dryer had been running for an hour or so
It makes it real easy if you have two people!! Put the dryer on it back--You'll need to protect the floor and the warm air exhaust of the dryer. Remove the two screws that secure the top--they are located on the inside upper portion of where the door seats on the front panel. Remove the top Remove the front by removing two screws near the top--one on each side Remove the belt from the idler pulley--note how it comes off Lift drum out of dryer Use the torx bit to remove the bearing If you got the kit it comes w/ the bearing housing--you'll need to disconnect a couple of the wiring harnesses holding the heater--replace the bearing housing This is the perfect time to remove all dust bunnies Re-install everything in reverse order
Disconnect Power from the Dryer Remove 2 screws that held the top on the dryer. Removed the 2 screw that held the front on the dryer. Unhooked the belt from the tensioner and motor pulley. Pulled the drum out. Removed the belt. Removed the three screws that held the bearing assembly on the back of the drum. Removed the keeper o-ring slide the bad bearing off of shaft. Slide the new bearing on the shaft put the new o-ring on the shaft. Reassembled the bearing on back of the drum. Put belt back around the drum and put drum back in place. Put The belt around the motor pulley and tensioner (this is probably the hardest part). Put the front and top back together. Turned the power back on. Job done
my problem was easy, i orderd a new lint filter, for a dryer that is at least 10y/o. it came to me by FEDEX, in 3 days. i threw out the old one and put in the new one. easy peasy. i will say that this website had what i wanted and got it to me very quickly. good job by PARTSELECT......
The diagrams on the Parts Select web site is what made it easy for me. I could see from the diagram how the dryer was assembled. I removed the two screws holding the top on then separated the front apart from the drum. I did have to remove the panel in the back where the power connects to access the drive pulley and belt tensioner. I slid the old belt off and simply reversed the procedure for the new one. Put it back together and it runs beautifully.
I also installed a new door gasket with no tools. Now it does not leak lint from the fronf door.
When I went home at Christmas, I saw that my Mom had been using a small bench to keep her dryer door shut. I wrote the make / model of the dryer down and found your website. I ordered the part, and my sister snapped it into place. My mom was so happy to have her dryer door stay shut again!
I took off the top panel and ran the dryer. I watched as the drum turned more and more slowly until it stopped. I turned it off, and unplugged it. I took off the front panel, simply swinging it to the left like a gate so I didn't have to disconnect any wires, then pulled out the drum. I should have taken the belt off the pulley idler first! Got the drum out and could see the broken idler wheel and the groove on the drum's back post for the O-ring. There is a silicon sheath that goes on this back post - don't lose it if it is still good or you'll have to buy another. Getting the idler wheel off the stem was as simple as using the pliers to turn the nut until it came off. I put the new one on, then put the nut back on. I adjusted the position of the idler pulley so that the belt would not be out of line with the pulley on the motor - I just eye-balled it. I slipped the belt around the drum, put the silicon sheath back on the drum post, then put the o-ring in the groove on the post. Put the drum back in the dryer, lining up the post to go back in the hole was a challenge. Then, getting the belt back on the pulley needed a little muscle to apply the tension needed to allow the belt to get into place. I had one hand in each opening on each side of the drum and did it by feel. I put the front panel back on and did a test run. The drum was turning with force now, not slowing down nor easy to stop by applying resistance with my hand. It was also much quieter. Put on the top panel and done!
