DCCB330ED2KC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Took the dryer apart to get to the rear bearing. Took the bearing assembly out, kept the e-ring from the old bearing shaft, replaced the bearing kit, took the o-ring off the new shaft and replaced it with the e-ring, then reassembled the unit. Make sure to place a nail or long screw into into the rear of the drum, so that you can realign bearing on the drum. It is easier with two people when reassembling.

After unplugging the dryer, I removed 2 metal screws up under the dryer sill rim, and removed the dryer top. Then, removed two more at the top of the front (door) section to remove it.

I wasn't careful enough when removing the door, and the wiring connectors popped loose from their connections. No harm done, though. Disconnect the wires once you remove the front panel.

I had to loosen the bottom metal screws on one side panel to have enough give to pull the dryer drum out.

The only way to replace the belt is to bend over the side of this unit and with one hand put the belt around the motor drive shaft, pull the tension pulley back, and put the belt on the wheel.

The hard part is working the drum back into place while VERY carefully slipping the belt into the drum goove. Many attempts were made only to have the belt slip off of the tension pulley or motor driveshaft. Be care full to turn the drum clock wise if the belt twists while working it into the drum groove. It was very disappointing to finally get the belt on, and work the drum back into place only to discover I had twisted the belt with the smooth side making contact on the driveshaft. Thus, I started over.

Aiming the drum into the back of the dryer is a tough task. I recommend a 1" X 4 " X 12" board to slip under the drum when beginning this process to help stablize, and guide the drum. It helped me tremendously, and was easy to remove out from under the drum once everything was back in place.

Use gloves. Yes, tough to work with in small places, and I did take them off to replace the belt around the tension pulley, however, there are too many sharp edges on the metal body of the dryer and especially the drum to do so without gloves.

Wires were easy to reattach and reassembly was smooth except for the top...check out the tabs, and spring tabs before you try and just plop the top back on. It goes a certain way...You'll know what i am talking about when you do this task.

I truly hope you have L O N G arms to do this task, and that the new belt lasts a long, long time!

Looked at the diagram on your web site and replaced part

The first thing I did was move the dryer out so I could "unplug it" !
Then I took the 4 philps head screws out that hold down the top of the dryer, then I lifted up the top and moved it off to the side making sure the wires didn't get pulled out.
Then I removed the 2 5/16 cap screws that holds the front panel on and lifted that off "Make sure you mark the down were the 2 wires for the door swich go" Like white on pin 1 and yellow on pin 2!!!
The next thing is to slide the drum foward so you can remove the element package then remove the 3 philps screws in the back of the drum make sure you have someone hold the element package there is a sheild between the drum and the element package that may fall that is a watch out you will need to move the element package up so you can work on it there will be wires hooked to this ring so becare full you don't break them off.
remove the element package you will see the bearing kit attached to that.
There are 4 5/16 cap screws that hold the bearing kit to that remove them and then remove the old bearing kit you may find and E Ring holding the old bearing kit in place (this would be found in the older models).
Before you install the new bearing kit take the new self tapping screws and tap the holes in the new bearing kit mounting plates this will make things go faster!!!
Now mount the bearing plate with the 4 holes to the element package there is a tab that needs to be mount in there too so look at the old one when you are taking it off.
Pick up the sheild that fell pick it up have a second person help you hold everything in place while you line up the holes for the front plate to the back of the drum and start your screws.
Now tighten them down check to make sure your belt didn't slide off the tensioner that is next to the motor before you slide the drum back in place if it did take the time to figure out how to get it back on the right way our you will be pulling things apart again.
What I did was spin the Drum by hand to make sure everything was ok. you will know if the belt is off it will not move when you spin the drum by hand.
Now that you made sure the belt is on you can put the front back on there are 2 studs on the bottom that you need to set the frount panel on before you can put the screws back in in it.
Now that you have the fron back on it hook your 2 wires back up to the door switch like you took them off!
Now move your top back over and you will see 2 clips on the back of it that slide into a grove in the back now that you have that in place start putting the screws back in put the middle 2 in first and tighten them down them put the last 2 in.
Now plug it back in if your vent pipe fell off hook it back up as you slide your dryer back in place now try it to make sure everything is working right and you will hear the differance.
Good Luck with your repairs....
Just a quick note this dryer is over 40 years old and still going.
I have replace 6 elements and 1 drive belt since it was bought new now the bearing kit.
Clean it once a year and the vent pipe every 6 months it will last!!!

Watched the video on a different style of dryer so taking apart a bit of a challenge. The old Front Drum Bearing was completely gone on left side and a challenge to pry it off the front dryer panel. replaced felt seal and front drum bearing. noticed that there was 4 places for new bearing slides. the ones i ordered were white and green but did not know why or which one went where as no explanation with packaging. also only ordered one of each and so now had to stop and try and find two more. ! hour later i had brought back a tupperware lid that was thick enough and stated could go to 194 degrees F. i cut out one replacement for green bearing and reused the old white one since it was in good shape from right side of drum bearing. i went back to this website and noticed in the comments section for drum bearing that someone stated the green bearing slides go in at positions 11 and 1 and the white at 10 and 2. they are different materials and having more weight of drum on green now made sense. put machine back together and told neice to keep eyes and ears on dryer thru cycle. she did not even know it was running just in next room.

Exactly how your perfect video instructions showed me. Thank you for a job well done!

I followed the YouTube video and it gave me step by step instructions however I really needed to replace my dryer slides to fix the problem.

was no repair- removed filter from door and installed new filter into door. No tools required.

Hand replace

TOOK OFF TOP AND FRONT PANEL REACHED IN UNDER TUBE AND REMOVED FROM BELT TENSIONER HARDEST PART IS PUTTING BACK ON TENSIONER TAKES TWO HANDS LAYING ON YOUR BELLY

Unplugged dryer, slid away from wall, and rotated 90 degrees. I removed top panel, and front panel, pulling off 2 electrical wires, and disconnecting 1 Molex connector, for the door switch. I turned the front panel around, and leaned up against the dryer drum. I removed the light bulb, then snapped off the remains of the upper bearing, then unsnapped the duct panel assembly. I carefully positioned the duct assembly against the front panel, carefully making sure not to pinch any wires, and pressed into place. I then pushed the bottom of the top bearing into the duct assembly, and pushed the top into place, replacing the bearing wear strips, 2 black, 2 white once bearing is snapped into place. I rewired the door switch, put the bulb back in, screwed the front panel, then top panel back on, rotated back into position, plugged it in, and started dryer. Problem solved!

Removed old one, inserted new one in slot. Just have to be sure it's turned in the right direction.

Two screws under the dryer door then the top comes off.Then two screws hold the front on come out. 4 screws top is off and front is off the rest is no problem.

I first watched the video on how to. Being mechecanically inclined I dismantled and removed everything needed to replace the drum bearing. Also removed belt at the same time. I replaced the bearing, then the belt. The belt could be a little tricky for some people. Getting the belt on the tension pulley could be a problem. What I did was I got a large nylon tie and put it around the armature of the motor. I then retracted the pulley just enough to be able to slip the belt over it. Of course this is all performed through the limited space on the bottom left, between the drum and the dryer shell. Once on the pulley, I cut the tie with wire cutters and it snapped into place. Rotated the drum a couple of times to line the belt with the pulley, perfect. I then put everything back together. I also cleaned any and all the lint that had gathered throughout the exhaust. Pluged the dryer in, perfect. Just like new. One more note getting the parts was so easy also. Your website and how to demo was a great help. Thank you, thank you very much. The words of the late Elvis Presley. They never get old.

The video of the dryer lint chute assembly showed the man without gloves. I didn’t wear gloves. When I disconnected the wire from the front panel assembly, my hand jerked and hit the side of the panel. It must have been razor blade sharp, because I got a deep cut. Advise people to wear gloves to protect hands from sharp metal.