DBB5000GF1GG Dryer - Instructions

Removed front of gas dryer and cleaned all lint out. Checked HSI, and cleaned flame sensor. Split (3 terminal) gas coil terminals were intermittent. Read about 700 ohms across outer two terminals, but center terminal to either outer terminal was open (Infiniti on meter) 2 terminal coil measured about 550 ohms. 3 terminal coil should read about 700 ohms across outer terminals, and about 1.5K ohms center to outer terminals. Unscrewed index cover plate and replaced coil, 2 terminal coil was okay. Reassembled and finished 12 loads of laundry no problems at all.

First I figured out it was the start switch, I heard it make an electrical zap noise when I turned it and then the dryer didn't start. Once I had the part I simply removed the back from the dryer with a screwdriver (5 phillips head screws and 1 flat head). Then I twisted the old switch and it popped right out. Then I unhooked the wires and rehooked them to the new switch. Then I twisted the new switch into place, tested the dryer - IT WORKED! After that I just replaced the back cover and I was done. It was so quick! I am a 25 year old single mother with a 21 month and 4 month old. If I can do it on my own anyone can!

Doing some simple troubleshooting with the volt-ohm meter I determined that the door switch was failed.

The replacement door switch restored the motor circuit keeping my dryer in action.

If you're dis-assembling the dryer panels to remove the drum to acess the bearing located at the rear of the drum,don't hesitate to buy a idler pulley kit and a belt.It's easier to change them now,while it's apart. besides,their all pretty much in the same state of wear! In lew of prying my son away from the computer,an extra set of hands is a help, I used a scrap piece of 4x4 with a 1 inch whole bored in one side to place the bearing end into to steady it to get the screws started. otherwise you need to have 6ft.arms! re-assembly wasn't bad, a magnetic tipped #3 screw driver eliminates the frustration of dropping panel screws down inside the partially assembled body.

The weight of the front section of the drum in the dryer rides on 4 slim pieces of plastic. remove the screws that hold down the top of the dryer are in the front door at the top at each corner. remove the top, then remove 2 screws that hold down the front of the control panel to the cabinet at the base. remove the 2 screws at the of the front corners of the cabinet to separate the front door section from the rest of the dryer.Watch out for the wires the connect the door to the rest of the dryer. if you replace the bearing at the back of the dryer you need to take two screws out at the base of the cabinet one from each corner to let the sides of the cabinet to spread out and let the drum pass though the front of the dryer cabinet. the belt has to come off the motor by lifting it up an sticking your hand in under the drum and working it off the end of the motor. replaced the parts ad the dryer works like new.

1 Unplug power cord. 2 Remove top and front panels. 3 Remove old bearing, slides and bulb. 4 Install new bearing slides and bulb. Reinstall front and top panels. 5 Restore power and test. Time to repair 25 minutes. Very satisfied with the parts and the time to receive them, very good parts service. Will definately use this service in the future and will highly recommend this company.

(I knew the gas coils were bad, since the gas ignitor would glow brightly as the burner attempted to ignite. So I knew everything except the gas valve was operating normally.)

Unplug the electrical cord to the dryer. Remove the front access panel. Remove the retainer clip for the gas coils (2 screws). Remove the coils and unplug the electrical connections. Connect the new coils to their respective electricl connections. Slide the nes coils back onto their respective posts on the gas valve. Replace the retainer clip, and 2 screws to hold it in place. (I then plugged the dryer back into the wall outlet to visually check the burner operation) Everything worked fine so I then replaced the front panel.

Removed lower front panel and then front including door (need to remove the top to access screws.) Replaced both the ingiter and heat detector. The tricky part was getting access to the long tunnel-like bracket that houses the igniter. Washer and Dryer are in a tight cutout space in very small laundry room.

First, I loosened the the top control panel and then loosened the top flat roof panel which allowed me access to the inside of the dryer. Then, I removed the front panel which allowed access to the drum. I was amazed at the amount of lint that was inside the dryer itself. Most of my time was spent in the disassembly and cleaning of the internal cavity around the drum. I reached below the drum and removed the belt from the pulley wheels and then unscrewed the drum (from the inside) from the back of the dryer and bearing kit. I removed the diffuser and cleaned it thoroughly. Then I replaced the entire drum bearing kit - the old one was almost completely dissentigrated. I probably should have applied some kind of non-flammable lubricant to the new bearing kit - the instructions did not include this step but after about 3 loads a slight squeak (different). I put everything back together - applying the new drum kit will require 2 sets of hands (my 9-year old daughter did great at this). I re-assembled the dryer and it works great, again except for the slight squeak that's still there. I may disassemble it again and apply some lubricant but I do not know what kind to get; I need to check that out.

Deflector has 3 bolts attaching it. They require a star wrench. Had to purchase same to do the repair. Removed the bolts(they are sheet metal type screws(bolts). Installed the deflector and started dryer. Loud rubbing sound noted. Shut off and checked the drum and noted it was not running concentrically. Removed deflector and the found the 3 screws actually retained the drum to drive. Had to make alignment pins to allow proper alignment of the drive, drum, and deflector. Once the pins were used during installation of the deflector everything worked correctly. Turned on dryer and it operated normally.
Had I had the proper tools the repair would probably have taken 30 minutes or less.

Pulled the front of the dyer off, snapped old bearing off, snapped new drum bearing in, affixed 2 new slides and 2 new other widgets (5 pieces total). Vacuumed/cleaned out various bits and pieces before i closed her up.

No squeaking.

Called a priest, but he died. Now i just do whatever the demon says, but i do it with quietly dried clothes.

Removed front of dryer, unplugged each coil to determine where buzzing was coming from.....determined it was the boosting coil....ordered part and replaced. Dryer works great....we think it had be going bad over time because drying times have noticeable decreased.

I first ordered the coils from a different web site and they sent the wrong ones. The job would have been much eaiser if i had just returned and ordered from here. Instead i cut wires and tried the others but since they were worng, it did not work. I didn't label the wires so it was a puzzle to put it back together. Once i had the wires connected properly it was a simple fix. You just open the top and take the front pannel off, remove the drum and it is right there at the bottom. Two screws take the cover off of the coils and they slide off the gas valve. Slide the new ones on and replace the cover. Put the front pannel back on, close the top and its good to go. I first tried the highlimit thermostat, and termostat with no luck. The flame would light when it was cold, but once warmed up, the flame would ignite and immediatly go out. The coils did the trick.

easy no problem

I remove the front control panel and to get to the bottom front dryer door off. Using my volt meter i checked all the sensors and thermal. I surf the internet for hint and some one mention to replace the coil since some time you could have one goes out and the other working still. After i replaced the coil kit it works like a champ.