CW8202W2 Crosley Washer - Instructions

Shut off or unplugged dryer for safety.

Slipped thin blade putty knife up under bezel of switch to unlatch from the panel and pulled forward to remove the swwitch from the dryer. Unplugged the quick connect terminals (3) from the old switch and plugged them onto the new switch. one of the terminals had gotten quite hot and darkened the insulation so it was replaced with one that was supplied with the switch. that was a cut, strip, crimp process. Placed the new switch into the panel and snapped into place.

remove bottom section under door 2 screws remove door 2 screws remove switch by squeezing tabs install 2 new female ends on wires supplied with switch . put switch back in plug in wires .

pull front cover off of machine, disconnect motor wiring harness. Remove 4 sheet metal screws holding motor / pump assembly to frame. Remove both pump hoses (caution - have towels and a bucket at the ready). Pull unit from machine. turn upside down on bench and replace components. Reverse for installation.

removed hoses from pump, removed 4 screws holding motor housing to washer, disconnected wiring from motor. It will make your life easier to re-assemble if you pay attention to how belt is located in relation to the legs of the pump. pump came off motor very easily. I had the old pump out and the new pump in and working in about 30 minutes.

To remove the drive bell, I drilled numerous holes through the top and split it apart with a screwdriver. The hub was really stuck and due to the unavailability of a 6" puller, I was forced to drill holes in the center section, tap the holes and use a harmonic balancer puller, PB Blaster, and propane torch to remove the hub. After removing the hub, I found small holes rusted through the outer tub. These I repaired with JB WaterWeld quite successfully. The new parts were well made and went on easily in about 45 minutes.

After removing the front panel I was able to reach the bolts holding the brake pads in place. Without the above mentioned ratcheting end wrench it would have been very difficult to start the bolts while replacing them. I would probably consider removing the motor if I had to do this again. It would give a lot better access. no real difficulty other than hard to reach.

Disconnect power and water, opened up front end by removing four self-tapping screws, removed the electric motor assembly from frame of machine, replace pump and belt and reassembled.

removed four 5/16 screws and two hose clamps. This released the pump and belt. With the pump on the bench, I removed a c-clip and removed the pulley. Just reverse the process and it was back together in about 15 minutes---total job.

I figured that the best thing to do is buy an adapter for the standpipe and now no more overflowing.

removed the front of the washer, removed the motor and pump. Reinstall new pump.

First I tried to lift the lid on the top of the washing machine. I eventually realized this model doesn't open up from the top. I removed two screws on the very bottom of the front panel of the washing machine. Then pulled gently downward to release the front panel from the two clips holding it in at the top. Once the front panle was removed, I found I could easily access the drain hose and disconnect it from the pump by loosening the clamp screw. (Be aware, there is still water in the hose and pump that will run out onto the floor; I had a bucket close by and tried to catch most of this water, but its somewhat futile.) There are two additional hose clips one underneath the tub, and one on the back panel of the washer that hold the hose away from other mechanical parts. Once the hose is freed from those clips it could be removed from the washer by feeding the hose out the back panel. The new hose was then inserted and fed down inside the washer, attached to the pump, tighten the hose clamp screw, clip the hose to the other two clamps so it is out of the way of other parts, reattached the front panel and you're done!

One other note about PartSelect.com...A few days after ordering my part, I had an "International Transaction Fee" show up on my debit card statement. I panicked thinking my card number had been stolen only to call my bank and find out PartSelect is based in Canada.

I called Lucky Buy when I realized it was more than the drain hose.
I asked if they would install for the same $55 if I got the parts online for less than their price & they said yes.
Once the parts came, they came back (Initial call was $20) for the $55 part replacement call.
At one point he said he had to leave & came back in 20 mins with the pump sawed off (into pieces - it was frozen on the base!)...
He also installed a new belt (Also ordered here for less than their quote!) +
I got braided steel hoses and (3) sets of screens (I'll start changing them annually!) ~
The washer now fills AT LEAST 4x as quickly with new hoses & screens!
The clothing comes out MUCH LESS DAMP with the new belt!
+ it is FAR QUIETER with the new belt!
We're in HEAVEN over here! :-)
ONE THING:
One that first load after the repair, I noticed the water level (Set, as always, to XL) was over halfway UP the side of the agitator's fabric softner dispenser, but thought MAYBE I was "misremembering", but nooo, I don't think I was because LOTS of water spilled out the MIDDLE FRONT BOTTOM once it did the cycle...
(This did not happen when he tested it before leaving - on the SMALL cycle (Which we NEVER use)...
SO!
QUICK FIX:
We set the water level to "LARGE" and all's been fine ever since! :-)
Anyone know whick part we need for the water to stop UNDER the bottom of the fabric softner, like it used to?

I am VERY PLEASED to have found this site and Lucky Buy - I am _SURE_ I saved WAY OVER $100 total (Parts & Labor) & my 15-year old machine is AS GOOD AS NEW NOW (almost - that leak's got to GO! :-)

remove agitator then remove center bolt from hub, match bolt with longer bolt so that gear puller will work. install bolt and gear puller and twist top of gear puller until hub is removed. remove old seal ,use sand cloth or emery cloth to remove all deposits from shoulder. make it shinny, use some dawn dishwashing soap to line the inside of the new seal at the bottom and slide into place.take a piece of 2" PVC about 4" long and slide over the top of the seal and tap with a rubber hammer until seal is seated firmly on shoulder. look to see that there are no gaps with a inspection mirror or a make-up mirror.If their are no gaps ,install the hub and tap on the new hub with the rubber hammer. the hub will not seat all the way down so use the old bolt to pull it down, now take out the old bolt and install the new one, this is because the new one has lock tite on it ,your done!

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

All you need for a Maytag is a snub nose Philips screw driver. The screws on the front panel are at the bottom angled down, so a regular length Phillip's won't work. Just unscrew the 2 screws, then lift the panel up and out. Careful not to pull out too far, there are 2 wires attached to the switch. The replacement switch is NOT an exact copy of the old one. My Maytag is over 30 years old and it only had 2 prongs on the switch. The new one has 3. Don't let that throw you. It is the same size. Just attach, 1 wire to the bronze connector & the other to the silver. Push the switch into the door opening, re-attach the door. Total time 20 minutes. Saved well over $100 in a service call. Anyone with an IQ above freezing can do it.